allanyed

As a novice, SERIOUSLY consider starting with the three boat series from Model Shipway designed by David Antscherl.   You will learn proper techniques and wind up with realistic looking models.  Study the kit build logs, look at the details and end results of all the brands, then note the few brands that are being built far more often, including Syren, MS, and Vanguard.  There is a reason for this. 
Allan
 
 
 

Your Terror is one of the best renditions I have seen, kudos!!    It is a shame that the kit maker knows nothing about sails and puts what another member here at MSW likened to door mats in the box.   This has been a gripe for many builders and why they look for alternative solutions.  Just as a comparison of a sail and the thing the kit supplied, the below might be more clear.   The dimensional information on the sketch on the right comes from sources based on contemporary information, including Lees' Masting and Rigging.  The dimensions may be a bit off but if you or someone building this kit can give me the length of the yard I can give more accurate dimensions on the kit sail to make a more fair comparison.  I left off quite a few of the additional reinforcing panels on the drawing, but these can be found in a number of books and probably on line. 
Allan

 
 

Daniel,  As it is a predominant part of the finished model, you may want to consider buying some replacement strips of wood and remaking the deck. At your scale, acrylic paint or black tissue paper are great ways to indicate the tarred seams.    I tried several methods when we were working on the Euryalus project and included the following:
 
From Volume 2 of Frigates of the Royal Navy, HMS Euryalus page 10
.........The first is to use tinted glue. In requires only a single small drop of black or burnt umber gouache or acrylic artist paint to a puddle of aliphatic glue.  We recommend making a batch with a small bottle of glue rather than many small batches.  Add enough paint to give a dark tint to the glue and keep track of the ratio of paint to glue.  In this way, additional batches can be made with the same tint level.  Using this method, glue must be carefully applied to the entire edge of a plank without breaks.  If the builder has concerns about the glue being weak, untinted glue can be used where the plank fays to the frames and tinted glue on the edges of the planks.
            The next method is to paint the edge of the plank.  Acrylic artist colors are readily found and one small bottle will be enough for the entire model.  Use this right out of the bottle or tube, do not thin it.  Once the paint has dried, the plank is glued in place. Any paint that may get on the outboard face of the plank will be scraped or sanded away once the hull is finished.  The edges can be darkened with a pencil in place of the paint.  This is far easier and presents a similar result. 
The last method that we used was simulating the caulking with tissue wrapping paper that is often used inside gift boxes.  The material is found in most craft stores in a variety of colors and is much thinner than craft or construction paper.  Black craft paper is far too thick for ⅛″scale, and may appear a bit heavy to some even for ¼″ scale.  Once the plank is ready to be installed, a bead of thinned white glue is run on one edge.
 
Allan

Nearly all of the Caldercraft kits were designed by Chris Watton, the current owner of Vanguard Models. Chris' first designs for Caldercraft were innovative for their time, but they are now over 20 years old in some cases, and even Chris will readily admit that his designs have improved significantly since then. Plus, unless the folks at Caldercraft have updated and reprinted them since then, the older Caldercraft kits were very light on the instructions. The upshot of all this is that the Caldercraft kits will still make very nice models, but they are not as beginner-friendly as newer releases.
 
OcCre kits typically include very user-friendly, photo-style instructions, and they are relatively inexpensive. The flip side is that OcCre kits are not known for accurately portraying their subjects.
 
We have many finished build logs of kits from both companies, as well as from Vanguard Models. I suggest you have a look at some from each company and also peruse some of the reviews for each company in the kit reviews section. These will help you make an informed decision.
 
Last bit of advice: choose a kit subject you really like, not just one that seems like the best model for a beginner. You need to feel a connection to your subject matter in order to stay motivated during the long haul of building.
 
Cheers!

As a novice, SERIOUSLY consider starting with the three boat series from Model Shipway designed by David Antscherl.   You will learn proper techniques and wind up with realistic looking models.  Study the kit build logs, look at the details and end results of all the brands, then note the few brands that are being built far more often, including Syren, MS, and Vanguard.  There is a reason for this. 
Allan
 
 
 

Your Terror is one of the best renditions I have seen, kudos!!    It is a shame that the kit maker knows nothing about sails and puts what another member here at MSW likened to door mats in the box.   This has been a gripe for many builders and why they look for alternative solutions.  Just as a comparison of a sail and the thing the kit supplied, the below might be more clear.   The dimensional information on the sketch on the right comes from sources based on contemporary information, including Lees' Masting and Rigging.  The dimensions may be a bit off but if you or someone building this kit can give me the length of the yard I can give more accurate dimensions on the kit sail to make a more fair comparison.  I left off quite a few of the additional reinforcing panels on the drawing, but these can be found in a number of books and probably on line. 
Allan

 
 

Your Terror is one of the best renditions I have seen, kudos!!    It is a shame that the kit maker knows nothing about sails and puts what another member here at MSW likened to door mats in the box.   This has been a gripe for many builders and why they look for alternative solutions.  Just as a comparison of a sail and the thing the kit supplied, the below might be more clear.   The dimensional information on the sketch on the right comes from sources based on contemporary information, including Lees' Masting and Rigging.  The dimensions may be a bit off but if you or someone building this kit can give me the length of the yard I can give more accurate dimensions on the kit sail to make a more fair comparison.  I left off quite a few of the additional reinforcing panels on the drawing, but these can be found in a number of books and probably on line. 
Allan

 
 

Hi - I’ve got the foredom drill and although they are expensive it’s probably what you are looking for. It has a foot control so you can go as slow as you like. It also has loads of torque and I cannot compare it to my old dremel. 
 
Mark

This build is a joy to follow!   I am watching your setups on the mill as I am in the very beginnings of learning how to make the most of using one.  In  addition your setups on the building board are well thought out.  Lots of gizmos that should be on my Christmas list!!!! 
Allan

That's smart, Greg.  On this frame I'm using the paper copy underneath to make sure my frame keeps the right shape, and finessing the chock cut-out on the second futtock if the chock is slightly off.  I'll experiment with other methods as I go forward.
 
Ron

Nice work, Ron. After a few POF models I changed my sequence when assembling frames. I now glue the butt joints of the futtocks together over the pattern, allow to dry then fit the chock by using the assembled frame as a template. A slightly off chock can affect the final shape of the frame so fitting the chock to it's opening insures this doesn't happen.

Dave,  You are very wise to be researching each thing before moving forward. Were the  four methods on the hawser tie off  based on contemporary information, or other kits.  If contemporary, it would really be interesting to see how this varied. 
Regarding coils,  I posted this video in the past, but if you did not see it, it might be helpful.  Allan
 

You are absolutely correct EZ, but unfortunately, many kit builders are not very experienced thus a little naïve as would be expected, so they do not know that many kits are loaded with mistakes.  For some, the research is as much fun and definitely as satisfying when there is the VOILA moment that you find a mistake and know you can fix it!   There are a couple kit makers that do a much more credible job of it and they too are in business to make a profit, so it can be done.  All anyone has to do is look how many kits are in the various build logs and which manufacturers continue to gain more customers and which are not thanks to the former having high quality products. 
Allan

You are absolutely correct EZ, but unfortunately, many kit builders are not very experienced thus a little naïve as would be expected, so they do not know that many kits are loaded with mistakes.  For some, the research is as much fun and definitely as satisfying when there is the VOILA moment that you find a mistake and know you can fix it!   There are a couple kit makers that do a much more credible job of it and they too are in business to make a profit, so it can be done.  All anyone has to do is look how many kits are in the various build logs and which manufacturers continue to gain more customers and which are not thanks to the former having high quality products. 
Allan

You are absolutely correct EZ, but unfortunately, many kit builders are not very experienced thus a little naïve as would be expected, so they do not know that many kits are loaded with mistakes.  For some, the research is as much fun and definitely as satisfying when there is the VOILA moment that you find a mistake and know you can fix it!   There are a couple kit makers that do a much more credible job of it and they too are in business to make a profit, so it can be done.  All anyone has to do is look how many kits are in the various build logs and which manufacturers continue to gain more customers and which are not thanks to the former having high quality products. 
Allan

EZ,  I hope Clementine, who has done an admirable job on his build,  would agree that you should not be afraid to research each part before you put it in place.  Some kit makers do not appear to spend much time on research before putting out a kit, or, if they do, they ignore it, but fortunately many of their mistakes can be fixed as you move along on the build. 
Allan
  
 
 

EZ,  I hope Clementine, who has done an admirable job on his build,  would agree that you should not be afraid to research each part before you put it in place.  Some kit makers do not appear to spend much time on research before putting out a kit, or, if they do, they ignore it, but fortunately many of their mistakes can be fixed as you move along on the build. 
Allan
  
 
 

EZ,  I hope Clementine, who has done an admirable job on his build,  would agree that you should not be afraid to research each part before you put it in place.  Some kit makers do not appear to spend much time on research before putting out a kit, or, if they do, they ignore it, but fortunately many of their mistakes can be fixed as you move along on the build. 
Allan
  
 
 

EZ,  I hope Clementine, who has done an admirable job on his build,  would agree that you should not be afraid to research each part before you put it in place.  Some kit makers do not appear to spend much time on research before putting out a kit, or, if they do, they ignore it, but fortunately many of their mistakes can be fixed as you move along on the build. 
Allan
  
 
 

Hi E Z Breeze,
Will you be starting a build log?  I've found it useful getting feedback about my build from more experienced builders, and it's useful for others who are starting their builds - as it sounds you have found.  I would recommend starting one.
Don't worry about putting your work 'out there' for others to see.  We're a friendly bunch and we all started somewhere .  It's a great learning experience.
Chimp

Techtonic
There have been a few nice looking cloth sail sets in recent logs and it would really be super if those builders prepared a short write up on their methods that could go into the articles data base.   Sadly, there have also been many that look awful, including pre-sewn sails from most kit makers.   Bad sails plus the fact that most of the rigging is blocked from view is possibly why so many model makers from the 17th through the 21st centuries leave off the sails. 
In the end, of course we should all go with what makes us happy😁
Allan 
 
 
 
 
 

I respectfully disagree with Techtonic regarding glue.  First, to many members "quicker" is an oxymoron to shipmodeling.  If speed is a criteria, ship modeling is not a good hobby to pursue.
 
From an article by the Oakwood Veneer Company.
Using contact cement to adhere raw wood is a complete failure waiting to happen for numerous reasons. Do not do it. Contact cement is more suited for use with synthetic laminates, like Formica. It is best to use a two-part resin or PVA glue adhesive when working with raw wood.
 
For me, epoxy resin is over the top for wood to wood, but PVA has a long track record for use with wood.  If the planking is spiled or otherwise tapered and shaped, finger pressure on the plank with PVA for 30 seconds will work.  If the plank is being slightly forced into place, PVA and a clamp of some sort for a few minutes will work.   If a lot of force is necessary, the plank has is not properly shaped.  Depending on what is important to you, study the planking tutorials here at MSW that will yield beautifully laid planking where every plank ends at the rabbet as they should, not coming to a point short of the rabbet.   
 
Allan
 
 
 
 

Peter,
This may not apply to a collier like the Earl of Pembroke, but according to The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War by Lees, page 66, parrel rigging on the lower yards was superseded by truss pendants by about 1760.  As Earl of Pembroke was launched in 1764 and acquired and renamed Endeavour in 1768, if she followed the RN methods she would never have had parrels on the lower yards.  Marquardt's expertise was used in the construction of the replica
so it seems odd they did not use parrels but he shows them in his book.  Obviously Marquardt and Lees did a LOT of research on rigging in general so choose your poison on this one. 
Allan

You are absolutely correct.  This is the reason to check everything before putting it permanently in place, whether scratch built or kit supplied.  There are thousands of contemporary plans and models to check against that are available for free on line at RMG, Wiki Commons etc. so why not use them?   There is a myriad of books available based on contemporary information for those that wish to expand their library as well.  
 
Allan

Your model is really looking good.  I fully realize there are proponents of using cloth sails that are not so concerned with scale and the choice is always that of the model builder.  Keep in mind that at 1:72 there is no cloth in existence or sewing method that will be to scale and many feel will detract from all the beauty you have put into your model to this point.    Maybe consider non-woven materials.   The $7 booklet on making sails by David Antsherl from SeaWatch books is a great guide on making realistic sails.  Tom Lauria has a two part video on sail making that you may find helpful as well.