allanyed

Schooner
 
Your methodology is spot on.  Totally agree with your choice of glue as well.   Marking out where to bevel the bulkheads is a great idea.  Holly is a great wood for decks.  It has the color of a holystoned deck and is readily available from the normal wood suppliers mentioned here at MSW.   
 
 As you are starting to plank the hull, do you plan to plank as the kit instructs or have you considered realistic looking planking instead?   If case you are not aware, there is a great Antscherl tutorial here at MSW and there is a four part Passaro video series on-line on proper planking.
 
Thanks for sharing your build with us.
 
Allan

Jobble,
There very well may have been stern lights (windows) but probably not.  Look at models of other brig rigged sloops on the Royal Museums Greenwich Collections website as one source of contemporary information.  The points about the cannon rigging and stern lettering have been discussed a number of times here at MSW based on contemporary information and research by folks such as Adrian Caruana and others.  The MSW search function is a godsend.
 Allan
 
 
 
 

Thank you very much for posting the link Kevin, it is a very interesting read.
Allan

Shipwreck The Gloucester hailed most important since Mary Rose - BBC News

Nails are not needed if the planks are properly pre-shaped.  Consider studying the planking tutorial by David Antscherl in the Articles data base here at MSW and watch the four videos that Chuck Passaro made on proper planking techniques.
Allan

The company that manufactures Gorilla "glue" uses Gorilla as the name for just about every type of adhesive that is available to the general public - including CA, PVA, rubber cement,....
 
If the original Gorilla glue is the subject of your inquiry - it is a water activated polyurethane.
Once cured (fully polymerized)  from what I can discover, a very sharp chisel is about to only way to reverse it.
 
The lack of a reverse gear as well as the cure behavior (I think it foams) has this adhesive as one that is a very very bad choice for anything involving scale modeling.

Jobbie,
Glad to see back, very nice work!
 
Just as an FYI for the future, during the ten years RN ships had their names on the stern, 1780-1790, they were painted on, they never had carved letters.  No names in any form were allowed before 1780 or after 1790.  Also, guns smaller than 32 pounders used 2 single blocks for the running out tackle, not a single and double.  Not a huge issue for the casual observer, but some builders find these kinds of details interesting.
 
Allan
 

Nails are not needed if the planks are properly pre-shaped.  Consider studying the planking tutorial by David Antscherl in the Articles data base here at MSW and watch the four videos that Chuck Passaro made on proper planking techniques.
Allan

Nails are not needed if the planks are properly pre-shaped.  Consider studying the planking tutorial by David Antscherl in the Articles data base here at MSW and watch the four videos that Chuck Passaro made on proper planking techniques.
Allan

Jobbie,
Glad to see back, very nice work!
 
Just as an FYI for the future, during the ten years RN ships had their names on the stern, 1780-1790, they were painted on, they never had carved letters.  No names in any form were allowed before 1780 or after 1790.  Also, guns smaller than 32 pounders used 2 single blocks for the running out tackle, not a single and double.  Not a huge issue for the casual observer, but some builders find these kinds of details interesting.
 
Allan
 

From Lees' Masting and Rigging English Ships of War, page 44, "Ratlines were spaced 13 to 15 inches apart...''  (32.5cm-37.5cm)
Allan

Post 2

Choosing the hull plan and settling in on the common location

I have been studying the whole Boothbay region early shipyards over the winter and have taken on the editing and updating of the current vessel database.  I will be giving a talk on the subject in August.  The following sorted table is the current listing of the 32 Brigs built here in the region between 1825 and 1855.
 
2.    here is the full list sorted by size.   
3      here is the list of the 5 larger Brigs.  They were built in 1852 to 1855, which is clearly the end of the era and set the date for this log.  The last one launched was H G Berry.   I have done some searching and went, as I have before, to the Main Maritime Museum vessel plans and selected a brig built in Harpswell, Maine just 30 miles away.  The plans advertise the half brig Mary Hamilton, built by Curtis & Estes, Harpswell, 1853. Length 119’. One sheet of lines. Drawn by George Parker. Reconstructed from builder’s half model. H G Berry 112 feet.  
4    here is the list of the 5 small ones.  They are 75 to 80 feet long and 120 to 147 listed tons.  They were built 1825, 30,36 ,44, and 55, which also covers the whole period.    As described in the first posting, my plan is to take that mostly built hull and retask it. The two paintings of Boothbay built brigs do help confirm the sail plan.   There are no other surviving documents to copy, I am following the assumption that there’s little variance in the general shape of the rig between these times.  I suspect the materials of the rigging would have been different over thirty years and I will try to look at that subject as we advance.  
Before we get too far in, I need to figure out where this representative “ways “are to be located.  4 of the 5 larger brigs and 3 of five of the smaller brigs were built in East Boothbay. Also, some of the owners were there as well.  I assume that I will be using storyboards as part of the display and not be trying to build a huge diorama.  H G Berry was built in the Charles Murray yard close to the wharf where a working vessel would have come. See the map for more info.
    
5.      here is an 1857 map of East Boothbay. I have annotated the main yards. The receiving dock for daily shipments from Portland is just north of the Murray yard on that point of land.  This view shows where 7 of 10 of our smallest and largest brigs were built.  Just for the record, 12 other brigs [ call them mid-sized] were built in this small village in the same period.   Thus at 19 of 32 it is still the main location. I will give a short summary of the yards in a separate update.   
Let’s get started on the drawings for H G Berry
 
This for me will be a multi-step process. I am truly finding my way. I first embedded a scan of the length section into cad and scaled it.   I will use it to develop the frame spacing, Keelson assembly and building board layout.  I have also taken the cross section and used it to draw first the stations as if I am building just bulkheads and then slowly adding mid frames. 
 
6.    here is the length section in, and the full frames roughed out. This first attempt in the new software simply takes the stations from the drawn plan, scales it and then divides the stations. If I were going to cover up the frames I could simply move forward.      
7       here is my first draft of the keel keelson, risers, stem, and sternpost assembly drawing. More work to do here. Much more to do here.  
8.     here is the first draft of the building board layout. This will come last after I decide on the right spacing of the frames.  Again much to do  
 
next up more reading, practice with new apple software and sail plans
 
 

Dave,
Once the surface is sanded perfectly smooth, draw the line and paint the first color, the lighter shade first.  This first color should actually go past the line.  Then redraw the line if necessary and a lay down a tape along the line.  Next, put on a coat by spray, or by hand,  a clear varnish, clear nail polish,  or similar along the tape edge to seal it.  Once this clear coat is dry, it will prevent t  bleeding and wicking under the tape when you paint on the second color.  Paint at an angle but away from the edge of the tape so you are not forcing paint into the seam.  Again, be sure the surface is absolutely free of bumps and dings so there is no open gap between the tape and wood before sealing and then painting.    If there is to be a thin (1/8", 1/4" or similar) white or other color stripe between the two main colors, automobile pin striping tape works very well.  Once in place, clear coats over the finished hull will protect the tape.   I used the pin striping on the model of the schooner Columbia  and it shows no sign of ill effects after ten years aboard a cruise ship.  
Allan

Please do take Steven's advice above and thoroughly study the planking tutorial by David Antscherl (https://thenrg.org/resource/articles) in the Article data base and Chuck Passaro's 4 part videos on proper planking techniques so at least the second layer looks good.  There is no need to use metal pins, especially on the second layer.   Is there a reason you used pins?
Good luck!
Allan
 
 
 

Allan,
Thanks for the observation.
I will move the figure away from the pin rack so it is not so obvious. Actually these are not the pins that came with the kit. They were smaller and brass (still probably too big) but they got "lost" on the red pin rail and red bulwark so I bought these and justified the size by telling myself this was an Admiralty model and thus meant to convey the overall ship design, not how it would look in actual service.
 
I am going to build the Wenchelsea next and will make sure I use belaying pins that are to scale even though that is also an Admiralty model.

Nice work on your first planking, and filling and sanding should smooth it off well.
 
However, may I suggest that before you begin second planking, you check out the planking tutorials at https://modelshipworld.com/forum/98-planking-downloads-and-tutorials-and-videos/ - these show you how best to achieve the best planking finish, the way it was done with real ships.
 
Good work!
 
Steven 

Hey Todd, Cheers for the compliment. The beast responsible for those prints of mine is the Anycubic Photon x, with the settings for 0,002mm a layer. The painting is a regular Vallejo acrylic flat black, and the shadowing is a dry brush with Vallejo gunmetal. Quite a useful technique for plastic kits. 

Thanks for the complements Allan, really appreciate it!
 
The kit? Ha ha ha... Here's a snapshot of the kit instructions (simplified beyond satisfaction), and some from the AOS book for comparison... 


The gun rigging would have been in fact incorrect if they were to be placed in the ports ready to see some action, but these are to be fastened to the deck for transport only  (as the kit instructions AOS publication presents). I may have simplified the fastening of the gun itself to the carriage, but Having compared these sketches to other illustrations of 6 and 9-pound guns on museum ships, I've seen that the breeching wrapped around the gun and carriage does vary. Also, there is a piece of rope on the front rigging piece missing, but I'm yet to add that once the gun is on the deck, and I guess the blocks were to be double hole blocks, but mine are only 2mm in length to accommodate the scale...

The deck treenails and measles ...You're absolutely right - I have in fact made them too big. Like I said - it's only the second wood build, and next time I'll be sure to consider the scale there as well. I've sen some people use brush hair for that - maybe that will look better for such a scale. 
 

Whitebeard, did you research the Miss Sherri (aka Jenny of Forrest Gump fame)?   I believe it was built by Desco Marine in St. Augustine.   Not sure if they are still in business but they were a few years ago.  I found an old address for them but no phone number or website so they may be defunct.   They may have the plans or similar ones as they built about 800 trawlers, and Miss Sherri may be one of them.   The Islander Yacht and old Californian Yacht boat yards gave me sets scaled prints back in the day once I explained it was for a model and not for reproduction of a real boat, &c. &c.  This could be a good route to take for your Jenny, even if it is from some other trawler shipyard if Desco is closed.  The Maritime Reporter and Engineering News may be able to steer you as well.  
 
I list of the boats built by Desco, last updated  February 2021,  is at http://shipbuildinghistory.com/shipyards/small/desco1.htm
 
Allan
 
 
 

I used the laser level to check the heights of the masts and to make sure they are not sloping from side to side. There does not appear to be a noticeable rack to any mast so I just have to get them straight.
 
Here is the laser in use.

 
It shows the fore mast to be a little tall so before I glued it in I trimmed about 1/8" off the top using the disk sander.
 
So, with one more anchor to lash on and a few drops of WoP on the tops of the masts yet to go the finish line is in sight. I ordered a "mini-vacuum" attachment from Micro-Mark to get a good vacuum on the model before it goes into the display cabinet. So it will be a few more days until I can declare this one FINISHED but once I get the anchor lashed on that will complete the assembly of the Confederacy.
 
Here are the fore and main masts installed.


And two shots of the model overall. I will post some more detailed shots when I get it "finish cleaned".

 

 
 

Hi, and thanks to all
 
 

The only thing that I know about shrimp boats is that I like to eat what they catch!
 
Having said that, I believe that some of the “working lines” would be wire rope too.  This would include lines leading directly to the trawls from the winches.  The wire rope supporting the mast, often referred to as Standing Rigging would probably be galvanized so more grey than black.
 
There is an excellent series of posts on the forum of a New England fishing boat.  The builder, “Fried Clams” does an excellent job of showing real working rigging.  Look it up.
 
Roger

For beginners, the three boat series by Antscherl cannot be beat, it teaches a LOT.  For your next projects, offerings from Syren and Vanguard seem to be the best way to go based on reviews and build logs here at MSW.  There are surely others that are OK.  Study up on all the comments you can find at MSW and look at the build logs to see which brands are high quality and which are not.   There is always going over to the dark side and scratch building😀
Allan

For beginners, the three boat series by Antscherl cannot be beat, it teaches a LOT.  For your next projects, offerings from Syren and Vanguard seem to be the best way to go based on reviews and build logs here at MSW.  There are surely others that are OK.  Study up on all the comments you can find at MSW and look at the build logs to see which brands are high quality and which are not.   There is always going over to the dark side and scratch building😀
Allan

For beginners, the three boat series by Antscherl cannot be beat, it teaches a LOT.  For your next projects, offerings from Syren and Vanguard seem to be the best way to go based on reviews and build logs here at MSW.  There are surely others that are OK.  Study up on all the comments you can find at MSW and look at the build logs to see which brands are high quality and which are not.   There is always going over to the dark side and scratch building😀
Allan