allanyed

I agree with David B,  The straight edge on what looks like double sided tape is something for me to remember to try.   The photography as pointed out earlier is excellent.  Thanks for continuing to share.
 
Allan

Sorry for the very late reply, been moving the past few weeks.  Maybe I  have missed something here, but you do not need anything more than very thin hand files and an old hacksaw blade or stiff backed razor to make molding cutters.   Even better I have used thin cutting wheels with my lathe or my Dremel, Hold the metal piece in a vice and cut or file the reverse image of what the molding is look like.  If using a hack saw blade piece heat it to cherry red and let it cool and it will be soft enough to easily file.  No need to re-harden, but if you wish to do so, reheat to cherry red and quench in oil.
 
Allan

I agree with David B,  The straight edge on what looks like double sided tape is something for me to remember to try.   The photography as pointed out earlier is excellent.  Thanks for continuing to share.
 
Allan

I agree with David B,  The straight edge on what looks like double sided tape is something for me to remember to try.   The photography as pointed out earlier is excellent.  Thanks for continuing to share.
 
Allan

To turn the axle for a square, there is no need to use the 4 jaw chuck. 
You just need to insert the square axle in a brass tubing. To be able to apply pressure  without deforming the brass tubing, 2 cuts in line are enough.

The last method for centering a square part is quite precise.
If you put it  in a lathe collet it will be even more precise.
This is how it is made in jewelry.
Jewelers can teach us a lot of technics.

Did a few minutes looking up withy.  All the definitions I found say withy was made of osier or other types of willow branches.
 
Can't wait for the Jeopardy game show to have powder kegs as a category and a clue on withy.  I am sure that will finally be one in which I can beat the admiral.....
 
Allan

Did a few minutes looking up withy.  All the definitions I found say withy was made of osier or other types of willow branches.
 
Can't wait for the Jeopardy game show to have powder kegs as a category and a clue on withy.  I am sure that will finally be one in which I can beat the admiral.....
 
Allan

Did a few minutes looking up withy.  All the definitions I found say withy was made of osier or other types of willow branches.
 
Can't wait for the Jeopardy game show to have powder kegs as a category and a clue on withy.  I am sure that will finally be one in which I can beat the admiral.....
 
Allan

Price, How do you do.  
 
Rendered collagen from animal hides and hooves was the bond most likely originally used on those classic models we see in the museums as well as furniture and other wood projects.  I understand that it is still used in some instrument making and antique repairs, so it must be available if you want to give it a try.  Fortunately we have other choices today, as using glue from hides is difficult, smells bad, and the animal rights people would no doubt harass you and this site if you used it.  As an aside, I wonder if vegans refuse to sit on antique chairs or play a violin,  hmmmmm.
 
Aliphatic emulsion resins (yellow carpenter's glue) is my choice for wood, and I use polyvinyl acetate (white glue) at times when setting seizings and such in rigging.  Epoxy certainly has an important place especially for metal to wood or similar situations.  Some folks like cyanoacrylate glue, but this is not my choice, normally.  Once in a while I use it as a cheater bond to hold  tricky piece of wood in place while the aliphatic glue cures.   
 
Allan

Albert
Just checked into your log.  REALLY GREAT!
Allan

Price, How do you do.  
 
Rendered collagen from animal hides and hooves was the bond most likely originally used on those classic models we see in the museums as well as furniture and other wood projects.  I understand that it is still used in some instrument making and antique repairs, so it must be available if you want to give it a try.  Fortunately we have other choices today, as using glue from hides is difficult, smells bad, and the animal rights people would no doubt harass you and this site if you used it.  As an aside, I wonder if vegans refuse to sit on antique chairs or play a violin,  hmmmmm.
 
Aliphatic emulsion resins (yellow carpenter's glue) is my choice for wood, and I use polyvinyl acetate (white glue) at times when setting seizings and such in rigging.  Epoxy certainly has an important place especially for metal to wood or similar situations.  Some folks like cyanoacrylate glue, but this is not my choice, normally.  Once in a while I use it as a cheater bond to hold  tricky piece of wood in place while the aliphatic glue cures.   
 
Allan

Hornet,
I have been using lengths of PVC pipe for years, but your idea is much better.  I just cap the ends, then there is the pain of getting the wood out, and water, no sink near by, etc.  Your way has easy access to a visible area to pick out what you need while leaving the rest in place.  Cudos.
 
Allan

Albert
Just checked into your log.  REALLY GREAT!
Allan

Albert
Just checked into your log.  REALLY GREAT!
Allan

Albert
Just checked into your log.  REALLY GREAT!
Allan

In wood working, hand-made joints, such as dovetail joints, are always done by making one side of the joint first, then using that part to scribe the other part.  There is no way to get a tight joint by making the two pieces independently.  Since the devil in in the details, they are:
 
1.  Whatever the profile of the joint, scarf, dovetail, miter, or a simple butt-joint, the surfaces of the joint must be exactly square to the surface of the profile. Otherwise, you may be tight on one side and have gaps on the other.  Using a file to finish joint by hand will  always end up with a convex surface and gaps on the edges.  So, have a good small square, with a light behind so you can see gaps.  For small parts there may not be a good surface to place the square, place both the piece and the square on a flat surface.  
 
2.  To help make a square cut, place the piece on a cutting board, then cut straight down, at 90 degrees to the board, with a sharp chisel.  You can use a block of wood to keep the chisel at 90 deg.  Cabinet makes us what is called a "paring chisel" for this which sharpened to 15 degree angle instead of the usual 25 degrees used on general purpose chisels.  An X-Acto chisel (#17, #18) is a good choice for model work.  The tool needs to be razor sharp, and do not take off too much in one cut - just take off shavings.  Use other tools to get the rough shape.
 
3.  With one piece made, the shape is copied to the other piece with a scribing knife, which has been sharpened on only one side of the blade so the cutting point is tight against the part you are tracing.  There is no way a pencil tracing is accurate enough.  You could use a #11 blade, but since it is sharpened on both sides there is a good chance that the scribed line will be 1/2 the blade thickness away from traced part.   A razor blade may work, but you may want to break if off to look more like a #11 so you can scribe in to corners.  Commercial scribing knives can be expensive, but Lee Valley Tools sells a reasonably priced one.  There's no reason you couldn't make your own by re-grinding a dull #11.  I've tried using scratch awls and needles for scribing, but I found they tend to follow the wood grain.   I would only use a point scriber for tracing concave curves that a flat knife couldn't follow: however, I can't think of any ship joints like this (unless you change you hobby to making jig-saw puzzles.)
 
4.   After you have roughed out the shape of the second piece to close to the line, the benefit of the scribed line comes into play.  Just hook the edge of the chisel in to the scribed line and cut straight down.  Even if your eyes can't see the line, you can feel when the chisel hooks.  In some cases, you could scribe both sides of the joint and cut from both sides.  One trick when cutting from both sides is to make the surfaces slightly hollow (concave) to ensure the edgers are tight.  Some people consider this a bit of a cheat, but it does ensure the joint line has no gap, which easily happens if the joint surfaces are evenly slightly convex.
 
After a test-fit of the joint, some paring cuts or scraping may be needed, but you will be very close to a perfect joint.  If a joint surface is convex, you can scrape it in the middle with the edge of a knife with a round profile (#10 knife).
 
If my description of the process is not clear enough, there are lots of places on the web that have good pictures.  Start at www.finewoodworking.com.   
 
Bruce

Per
 
Pages 228-229 of Lavery's Arming and Fitting give a good synopsis of the windlass.  As written by Lavery,launches, which pretty much replaced longboats on ships of 20 guns or more by 1780, had windlasses.   In addition to the windlass would often be found a davit.   Prior to the davit there would have been a lignum vitae sheave over which line would run out.   The davit and windlass combination was necessary when lifting the buoy rope in order to lift  the crown of a 3 ton anchor that had become embedded in the bottom.  No boat crew could do this without the aid of the windlass.   The davit rested on a pivot pin as shown on the photo.  Hope this helps.
 
Allan

Per
 
Pages 228-229 of Lavery's Arming and Fitting give a good synopsis of the windlass.  As written by Lavery,launches, which pretty much replaced longboats on ships of 20 guns or more by 1780, had windlasses.   In addition to the windlass would often be found a davit.   Prior to the davit there would have been a lignum vitae sheave over which line would run out.   The davit and windlass combination was necessary when lifting the buoy rope in order to lift  the crown of a 3 ton anchor that had become embedded in the bottom.  No boat crew could do this without the aid of the windlass.   The davit rested on a pivot pin as shown on the photo.  Hope this helps.
 
Allan

Per
 
Pages 228-229 of Lavery's Arming and Fitting give a good synopsis of the windlass.  As written by Lavery,launches, which pretty much replaced longboats on ships of 20 guns or more by 1780, had windlasses.   In addition to the windlass would often be found a davit.   Prior to the davit there would have been a lignum vitae sheave over which line would run out.   The davit and windlass combination was necessary when lifting the buoy rope in order to lift  the crown of a 3 ton anchor that had become embedded in the bottom.  No boat crew could do this without the aid of the windlass.   The davit rested on a pivot pin as shown on the photo.  Hope this helps.
 
Allan

Per
 
Pages 228-229 of Lavery's Arming and Fitting give a good synopsis of the windlass.  As written by Lavery,launches, which pretty much replaced longboats on ships of 20 guns or more by 1780, had windlasses.   In addition to the windlass would often be found a davit.   Prior to the davit there would have been a lignum vitae sheave over which line would run out.   The davit and windlass combination was necessary when lifting the buoy rope in order to lift  the crown of a 3 ton anchor that had become embedded in the bottom.  No boat crew could do this without the aid of the windlass.   The davit rested on a pivot pin as shown on the photo.  Hope this helps.
 
Allan

Per
 
Pages 228-229 of Lavery's Arming and Fitting give a good synopsis of the windlass.  As written by Lavery,launches, which pretty much replaced longboats on ships of 20 guns or more by 1780, had windlasses.   In addition to the windlass would often be found a davit.   Prior to the davit there would have been a lignum vitae sheave over which line would run out.   The davit and windlass combination was necessary when lifting the buoy rope in order to lift  the crown of a 3 ton anchor that had become embedded in the bottom.  No boat crew could do this without the aid of the windlass.   The davit rested on a pivot pin as shown on the photo.  Hope this helps.
 
Allan

Another 2 cents, maybe only a penny.  I start with an Xacto back saw cutting outside the line, then SHARP chisels and finally a file if needed.  Now, if I ever get my wish for a good milling machine, I have seen how these can be used in scarph joints and more, but I suspect the set up time is longer than doing a steady slow finish with chisel and file. 
Allan

Another 2 cents, maybe only a penny.  I start with an Xacto back saw cutting outside the line, then SHARP chisels and finally a file if needed.  Now, if I ever get my wish for a good milling machine, I have seen how these can be used in scarph joints and more, but I suspect the set up time is longer than doing a steady slow finish with chisel and file. 
Allan

Another 2 cents, maybe only a penny.  I start with an Xacto back saw cutting outside the line, then SHARP chisels and finally a file if needed.  Now, if I ever get my wish for a good milling machine, I have seen how these can be used in scarph joints and more, but I suspect the set up time is longer than doing a steady slow finish with chisel and file. 
Allan