allanyed
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allanyed got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Royal Navy Fireship COMET 1783
I had the privilege to preview this book and see the model while under construction and I can say that it is a must for any scratch builder or kit basher. There are a lot of new areas covered that are not to be found in the TFFM series such as an extremely detaled description on building the galleries, not to mention the design and construction of a ship with the specific purpose of being a fire ship.
I was supposed to be proof reading for errors but I became totally engrossed in the text and illustrations and enjoyed the read as much as I found an appreciation for its usefulness to the model builder.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in Rigging Book Recommendation
I have Petersson and TFFM and they are super, especially TFFM. My fall back is James Lees' Masting and Rigging as he addresses lines, line sizes, blocks, the works, for any size British Warship between 1625 and 1860.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in The Fully Framed Model Series Indexes
Richard
The index in volume two is several pages long so I will not detail it here, but basically Vol II continues the construction of the hull through completion. Volume III is basically a series of photos of Greg Herbert's build (Well worth having) and IV is masting and rigging.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from butch in The Fully Framed Model Series Indexes
Richard
The index in volume two is several pages long so I will not detail it here, but basically Vol II continues the construction of the hull through completion. Volume III is basically a series of photos of Greg Herbert's build (Well worth having) and IV is masting and rigging.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from SaturnV in The Fully Framed Model Series Indexes
Richard
The index in volume two is several pages long so I will not detail it here, but basically Vol II continues the construction of the hull through completion. Volume III is basically a series of photos of Greg Herbert's build (Well worth having) and IV is masting and rigging.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in The Fully Framed Model Series Indexes
Richard
The index in volume two is several pages long so I will not detail it here, but basically Vol II continues the construction of the hull through completion. Volume III is basically a series of photos of Greg Herbert's build (Well worth having) and IV is masting and rigging.
Allan
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allanyed reacted to druxey in Accuracy of AOTS Deck Planking Diagrams
AOTS series often contain errors, unfortunately. The planking pattern you show is one example. The second version is correct. If the first layout were actually used, once one butt gave way, the rest would follow like a zipper. (This particularly applies to hull planking). The second, staggered pattern minimizes this possibility and is much stronger.
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allanyed got a reaction from Trussben in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Ed,
I like that you showed the photo of how you fit the ledge. As you have shown, I also field fit each ledge as well as the carlings at times. As close as one can be to the plans in their build, there is always the need to field fit some items and the model builder should not feel they have made a mistake by having to do so. There is not doubt that the full scale ship yards measured and cut in the field at times just as you have shown in your scaled shipyard. Showing these little things in your log is huge.. Kudos
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from butch in CA glue question
jud
Say you have a 30 foot long plank, thus about 14 frames on a fully framed model. I used to use aliphatic glue on all but two or three frames. On those couple, I would use gel CA to get an almost instant bound to hold the plank in place. I have since quit CA altogether as I hate the fumes and use aliphatic and clamps as needed to hold the part in place until the glue cures.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from testazyk in CA glue question
jud
Say you have a 30 foot long plank, thus about 14 frames on a fully framed model. I used to use aliphatic glue on all but two or three frames. On those couple, I would use gel CA to get an almost instant bound to hold the plank in place. I have since quit CA altogether as I hate the fumes and use aliphatic and clamps as needed to hold the part in place until the glue cures.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Brian the extraordinaire in CA glue question
jud
Say you have a 30 foot long plank, thus about 14 frames on a fully framed model. I used to use aliphatic glue on all but two or three frames. On those couple, I would use gel CA to get an almost instant bound to hold the plank in place. I have since quit CA altogether as I hate the fumes and use aliphatic and clamps as needed to hold the part in place until the glue cures.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from MikeB4 in CA glue question
jud
Say you have a 30 foot long plank, thus about 14 frames on a fully framed model. I used to use aliphatic glue on all but two or three frames. On those couple, I would use gel CA to get an almost instant bound to hold the plank in place. I have since quit CA altogether as I hate the fumes and use aliphatic and clamps as needed to hold the part in place until the glue cures.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from jud in CA glue question
jud
Say you have a 30 foot long plank, thus about 14 frames on a fully framed model. I used to use aliphatic glue on all but two or three frames. On those couple, I would use gel CA to get an almost instant bound to hold the plank in place. I have since quit CA altogether as I hate the fumes and use aliphatic and clamps as needed to hold the part in place until the glue cures.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from mtaylor in CA glue question
jud
Say you have a 30 foot long plank, thus about 14 frames on a fully framed model. I used to use aliphatic glue on all but two or three frames. On those couple, I would use gel CA to get an almost instant bound to hold the plank in place. I have since quit CA altogether as I hate the fumes and use aliphatic and clamps as needed to hold the part in place until the glue cures.
Allan
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allanyed reacted to druxey in Has anyone carved the stern decorations of HMS Pegasus?
No. However, a larger scale mock-up with modelied clay sculptures should help you figure out how to carve them in wood. I've found that process to be helpful on other models, an example of which is attached.
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allanyed got a reaction from trippwj in Framing of the Gunports on 18th Century English Ships
Thank you very much Wayne, I had not seen those and appreciate you posting. Alas, I am looking for drawings with cant framing in the disposition drawing and a bit more detail.. The drawings I am used to seeing show offsets and canting of the various futtocks around gun ports, sweep ports, etc. Sutherland is pretty basic, not unlike the majority of framing on the contemporary dockyard models. I wonder if the Sutherland drawing is supposed to be more suggestive than actual. Some of the gun ports do not meet the framing on both sides and others show half the siding of a frame cut away to allow the gun port in place.
Two examples of dispostion drawings from the National Maritime Museum Collections website are attached, a 74 from 1763, and a 50, the drawing of which is from 1776. Sorry to be so picky. I really do appreciate your taking the time to post your response.
Allan
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allanyed reacted to James H in Looking for a Teach-in on Painting?
No politics here guys, there is no place for it....
We are a hobby site.
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allanyed got a reaction from dgbot in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Danny
I like the varying vee block set up. Are there just the two we see in the photo or do you have more to support longer pieces so they do not bend during the chiseling process? I am very happy to see you demonstrate that a sharp chisel can do wonders, and dowels are not necessary to make masts or spares.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from druxey in HMS Vulture 1776 by Dan Vadas - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - 16-gun Swan-class sloop from TFFM plans
Danny
I like the varying vee block set up. Are there just the two we see in the photo or do you have more to support longer pieces so they do not bend during the chiseling process? I am very happy to see you demonstrate that a sharp chisel can do wonders, and dowels are not necessary to make masts or spares.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from clipper in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Ed,
Cudos continue from all of us, and justifiably so. In addition to the quality of the workmanship that you show, I really believe the step by step process you have taken the time to photograph and show has shown a lot of members it is not that hard to do. It takes a willingness to try, and the patience to try again and again at times. Broken down into each single step as you show on the hanging standards (I still think those are standards, not knees :>)) it takes the fear out of the process.
Thanks again for sharing. There are a lot of great builders that are members here, but you are the teacher of the year as far I am concerned. I hope this is a lesson for others to try to share as much as you have.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from NenadM in Best way To install gudgeons and pintles and the rudder?
J
If you want the rudder to be able to move, you will need to make working "hinges" The rudder can be completed first then the hull straps with the gudgeons temporarily tacked to the pintles on the rudder and then held to the hull to mark hull strap locations. I would not use glue as you will be gluing to the varnish, not the wood. Or, scrape off the paint and varnish to expose the wood. I prefer to "bolt" the straps with tiny brads.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from PeterK in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Ed,
Cudos continue from all of us, and justifiably so. In addition to the quality of the workmanship that you show, I really believe the step by step process you have taken the time to photograph and show has shown a lot of members it is not that hard to do. It takes a willingness to try, and the patience to try again and again at times. Broken down into each single step as you show on the hanging standards (I still think those are standards, not knees :>)) it takes the fear out of the process.
Thanks again for sharing. There are a lot of great builders that are members here, but you are the teacher of the year as far I am concerned. I hope this is a lesson for others to try to share as much as you have.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from Pete Jaquith in Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper
Ed,
Cudos continue from all of us, and justifiably so. In addition to the quality of the workmanship that you show, I really believe the step by step process you have taken the time to photograph and show has shown a lot of members it is not that hard to do. It takes a willingness to try, and the patience to try again and again at times. Broken down into each single step as you show on the hanging standards (I still think those are standards, not knees :>)) it takes the fear out of the process.
Thanks again for sharing. There are a lot of great builders that are members here, but you are the teacher of the year as far I am concerned. I hope this is a lesson for others to try to share as much as you have.
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from dafi in Anchor Buoys-Looking for details of ones used in 1700's
Keith
This subject got me doing some research. As you probably already found, the Harland book, Seamanship in the Age of Sail and the pages mentioned are on line from Google Books. I also found a very nice Texas A&M thesis on anchors by Harold Jobling that is wealth of information on anchors tehmselves from 1550 to 1850 and his research sources.
Nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/jobling-MA1993.pdf
Allan
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allanyed got a reaction from foxy in Making sails for HMS Victory
Having just seen Blue Ensigns photos, I humbly stand corrected as he has shown it can be done.
Allan
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