rtropp

Coppering looks good.  Keep it up
Richard

Been working on the copper plating. Going very slow. I'd hate to show a very close-up pic of the plates. I am having a very hard time not bending them. Mine look very beat up in some spots.
 

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I just took another look at my post, boy does it ramble on, I guess you hit a nerve.  Hope there is something in there that is helpful.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I just took another look at my post, boy does it ramble on, I guess you hit a nerve.  Hope there is something in there that is helpful.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I have worked on the second go at the figure head.  It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it.  Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure  has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges.  
 

 

 

 
There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up.
 
I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting.  I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different.
 

 
the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different.  I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences.
 
 
The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it.  Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it.
 
On another note.  I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature.  So I figured, heck, I have a few acres.  why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig.  Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean.
Oh well, cancel the order...:-)
 
Richard
 

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I just took another look at my post, boy does it ramble on, I guess you hit a nerve.  Hope there is something in there that is helpful.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I just took another look at my post, boy does it ramble on, I guess you hit a nerve.  Hope there is something in there that is helpful.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

I too agree with Mark. I tried to use Dremels and other power tools when I began but soon learned that they are hard for a beginner to control, especially when you are working on extreme miniatures and still learning what the outcome of the work should be.  Working by hand will give you a feel for what it takes to get the right results before you try to speed things up. You will hear others on the site repeat the mantra, work slow, be patient, let the eye hand coordination build. I heeded early on when more experienced builders advised to treat each tiny component as a project in itself.
 
When I started I did most of my cutout work with and Xacto or similar knife.  I scored the cut lightly a few times before making my final cut.  I also found that my cutting is better when I use a harder surface than the rubber cutting mat that are common to hobbyists. The mat might allow the piece to bend when cutting which can alter the cut or splinter the bottom of the cut.  I have a piece of linoleum type tile that gives me better results than a cutting mat... which I still keep on the worktable for general cutting and to protect the surface of the table.
 
It is very important to use sharp tools.  A dull tool will "wander' with the wood grain.  I buy my blades, mostly #11, by the hundred.  Some of the folks keep a sharpening stone nearby and give them a swipe every few cuts.  They still replace them frequently. Chisels need to be kept extremely sharp to slice wood rather than splinter it.  I spent a fair amount of time learning how to sharpen chisels on diamond stone.  My smallest chisels are 1/16" or a little smaller, so they dull quickly and require proper sharpening.
 
Another of my most useful tools is a set of metal files for wood working.  These are slower but will give you better results as you start.  There are some good needle file sets that are cheap on Ebay. I especially like files made by Tamiya.  They have three sizes with different grit. The key for me was to not try a quick back and forth motion but rather to take one or two passes at a time and then look at the work to see where I was.  Also, with files and chisels I use a light stroke letting the tools do the work.  I don't try to force them. They work better than sandpaper for because they keep their shape throughout the cut. 
 
When I started this hobby I did a lot of practice on scrap wood , still do before starting a complex cut.  I often go through a lot of scrap wood, more than I care to admit to, before I get a usable part. 
 
I am one of those who enjoys the journey as much as getting to the destination.  I will work for hours, with a pile of attempts in the scrap bin before I get what I want.  There are those on MSW who make it look really easy, most have a list of builds under their names which built their skills. they had to learn at some point and they were not speed demons when the did, so try not to compare your initial attempts with their much more experienced work.
 
 As for frustration, we all experience that, even the very skilled.  I find that stepping back... with a glass of vodka, helps.
 
Richard

BTW - both Artesania and CP have it wrong for the Jeers. They go like through the Lubber Hole. Here are a series of pics of my Vulture showing the correct attachment :
 

 

 

 

 
However, feel free to do it CP's way - no-one said that Artesania have it right all time, there will be more discrepancies with authenticity .
 
  Danny

If all the pieces fit perfectly, you can work in sections... If you think it is appropriate and more easy place the full mast, no problem.
In my case, the pieces fit perfectly and do not need any type of glue, but you have to be precise..
Another thing to bear in mind and above all, is to have more space to work comfortably,do not place the Rails in the tops, do it to last to prevent damage.
 
Edit:(Tip) When you do the tops of the main mast and foremast, leave a square space for maneuver that held the yard. Because there is not enough space near the masts

Inner and outer planking.

I have worked on the second go at the figure head.  It has been taking a lot of time, but I am enjoying it.  Thanks to some other threads, I have found some really fine burrs as small as .4mm. While most if the figure  has been carved using files, some of the the really tough spots have benefited from the fine burrs and really small gouges.  
 

 

 

 
There is still a lot to do, I figure I am about half way, but it is shaping up.
 
I had some problems with the first one shown in the last posting.  I now realize that I had cut the form out using the plans then used the supplied figure head to help guide the detailed work. Turns out they are different.
 

 
the arms, hands and fins, even the hair is different.  I was so focused on doing the shaping that I did'nt stop to notice the differences.
 
 
The jury is still out on whether it will be good enough to use... but I think it will have to be really bad for me not to use it.  Something about it being made here that has a nice ring to it.
 
On another note.  I was thinking about how difficult it can be to build the ship in miniature.  So I figured, heck, I have a few acres.  why not build the Syren full size... so I am putting together an order for boxwood and pear for the 240 ton brig.  Oh.. wait a second, I live in Atlanta... how am I going to get it to the ocean.
Oh well, cancel the order...:-)
 
Richard