Patrick Matthews
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from Canute in 3D-printing for modellers?
And ANOTHER thing... these outfits (like Shapeways) have set up so that you can sell your own designs in your own shop... they handle the web work, order taking and fulfillment, and send you a check every month. Sweet.
I got started in it just to make my range of cowl vents available... those nasty little vents, about the hardest part to make on any ship model!
The examples below are on a 1:32 ocean salvage tug.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from Archi in 3D-printing for modellers?
Kurt-
Sorry I couldn't make it to Manitowoc to give that talk!
My advice to any fine modeler: Do NOT waste money on "affordable" home 3D printers... they are frustrating to use, and produce poor quality parts. Instead, take your designs to a commercial house like Shapeways or iMaterialise, where they have spent MILLIONS on top quality equipment... parts will come out quickly and much nicer than anything a home machine can produce.
Here is my latest 3DP project, an animated Hicks marine engine in 1:8 scale. Mostly 3D printed, with a little PE and traditional machining. Even the brass parts, including the prop, were 3D printed. Well actually, the waxes were printed, and then fed into the traditional investment casting process.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from Mirabell61 in 3D-printing for modellers?
Kurt-
Sorry I couldn't make it to Manitowoc to give that talk!
My advice to any fine modeler: Do NOT waste money on "affordable" home 3D printers... they are frustrating to use, and produce poor quality parts. Instead, take your designs to a commercial house like Shapeways or iMaterialise, where they have spent MILLIONS on top quality equipment... parts will come out quickly and much nicer than anything a home machine can produce.
Here is my latest 3DP project, an animated Hicks marine engine in 1:8 scale. Mostly 3D printed, with a little PE and traditional machining. Even the brass parts, including the prop, were 3D printed. Well actually, the waxes were printed, and then fed into the traditional investment casting process.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from Archi in 3D-printing for modellers?
And ANOTHER thing... these outfits (like Shapeways) have set up so that you can sell your own designs in your own shop... they handle the web work, order taking and fulfillment, and send you a check every month. Sweet.
I got started in it just to make my range of cowl vents available... those nasty little vents, about the hardest part to make on any ship model!
The examples below are on a 1:32 ocean salvage tug.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from thibaultron in 3D-printing for modellers?
And ANOTHER thing... these outfits (like Shapeways) have set up so that you can sell your own designs in your own shop... they handle the web work, order taking and fulfillment, and send you a check every month. Sweet.
I got started in it just to make my range of cowl vents available... those nasty little vents, about the hardest part to make on any ship model!
The examples below are on a 1:32 ocean salvage tug.
-
Patrick Matthews got a reaction from thibaultron in 3D-printing for modellers?
Kurt-
Sorry I couldn't make it to Manitowoc to give that talk!
My advice to any fine modeler: Do NOT waste money on "affordable" home 3D printers... they are frustrating to use, and produce poor quality parts. Instead, take your designs to a commercial house like Shapeways or iMaterialise, where they have spent MILLIONS on top quality equipment... parts will come out quickly and much nicer than anything a home machine can produce.
Here is my latest 3DP project, an animated Hicks marine engine in 1:8 scale. Mostly 3D printed, with a little PE and traditional machining. Even the brass parts, including the prop, were 3D printed. Well actually, the waxes were printed, and then fed into the traditional investment casting process.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from tlevine in 3D-printing for modellers?
Kurt-
Sorry I couldn't make it to Manitowoc to give that talk!
My advice to any fine modeler: Do NOT waste money on "affordable" home 3D printers... they are frustrating to use, and produce poor quality parts. Instead, take your designs to a commercial house like Shapeways or iMaterialise, where they have spent MILLIONS on top quality equipment... parts will come out quickly and much nicer than anything a home machine can produce.
Here is my latest 3DP project, an animated Hicks marine engine in 1:8 scale. Mostly 3D printed, with a little PE and traditional machining. Even the brass parts, including the prop, were 3D printed. Well actually, the waxes were printed, and then fed into the traditional investment casting process.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from reklein in 3D-printing for modellers?
Kurt-
Sorry I couldn't make it to Manitowoc to give that talk!
My advice to any fine modeler: Do NOT waste money on "affordable" home 3D printers... they are frustrating to use, and produce poor quality parts. Instead, take your designs to a commercial house like Shapeways or iMaterialise, where they have spent MILLIONS on top quality equipment... parts will come out quickly and much nicer than anything a home machine can produce.
Here is my latest 3DP project, an animated Hicks marine engine in 1:8 scale. Mostly 3D printed, with a little PE and traditional machining. Even the brass parts, including the prop, were 3D printed. Well actually, the waxes were printed, and then fed into the traditional investment casting process.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from US-SteamNavy in 3D Printing - Yet!
After having my article on 3D printing published in the NRG Journal last summer, I was pleased to see some actual parts show up in the Spring 2015 issue.
Hubert Mallet's article on an RNLI lifeboat includes a pair of engines which are 3D printed. And I think this is an excellent example of using the best tool (or process) for the job. The engines are "modern" mechanical items that lend themselves to modern modeling techniques. On the other hand, I would usually avoid 3D printing a part which simply needs, nay, demands, to be shaped from wood. And Mssr. Mallet has done the right thing here by shaping his model's wood hull from ... wood.
Nicely done, Hubert...
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from thibaultron in Let's talk 3D printers.
Sorry that I didn't find this thread earlier. A few quick comments:
1. If you want to make a wooden model of a wooden ship, that's perfect, and don't let 3DP annoy you at all. Do what YOU want to do. But do avoid being a wood-ship chauvinist! Not all ships, nor their models, nor their MODELERS, are age-of-sail-ers, and not all of such parts are best whittled from sticks.
2. If you DO want to use 3DP, "too old" is no excuse! I'm pushing retirement age myself.
3. For the time being, DON'T waste time and money on any "affordable" desktop printer... the machines that can do work suitable for decent models have many many zeroes in their price tags. Go to a shop like Shapeways instead, let them take the depreciation on their capital investment.
BTW, here is my latest 3DP model, PT-61 (a late Elco 77 footer). In 1:24 scale, it's large enough for R/C, but this copy is for display only. The hull is wood, because sometimes wood just makes sense! (PT hulls are quite easy to build up with dual-diagonal planking). But virtually everything else is printed, from the cabin to the weapons, and even the window glazing.
Kurt likes to remind us that "if you have to hurry, it ain't a hobby". Well I had to hurry, as this was a commission, and tools like 3DP helped a lot. From the first laser cut frames to the final photos: 4 months.
Pat M
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from allanyed in Cutting brass sheet
For cutting complex shapes in brass sheet (thick or thin), nothing beats a jeweler's saw (used with a proper "bench pin"). See:
http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117
I have a friend who cut out a beautiful example (two actually) of the cursive text "Chris Craft" in 1:8 scale from brass sheet... just takes patience!
No need to anneal your brass.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from DelF in Cutting brass sheet
For cutting complex shapes in brass sheet (thick or thin), nothing beats a jeweler's saw (used with a proper "bench pin"). See:
http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117
I have a friend who cut out a beautiful example (two actually) of the cursive text "Chris Craft" in 1:8 scale from brass sheet... just takes patience!
No need to anneal your brass.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from Mahuna in galvanized fittings and chain
Tinning: You should try it! Much more durable than paint or blackening, and if the parts should be galvanized, this is your best bet!
You are looking for "Tinnit", and easy to use solution, that normally is used to apply (electrolessly) a tin plate onto PCBs' copper traces. It works quite well on brass too.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/er-18/tinnit-bright-tin-plate/1.html
Find an example here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=967801&page=9#post11881171
where I used it on large scale brass rigging fittings.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Cutting brass sheet
For cutting complex shapes in brass sheet (thick or thin), nothing beats a jeweler's saw (used with a proper "bench pin"). See:
http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117
I have a friend who cut out a beautiful example (two actually) of the cursive text "Chris Craft" in 1:8 scale from brass sheet... just takes patience!
No need to anneal your brass.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from thibaultron in galvanized fittings and chain
Tinning: You should try it! Much more durable than paint or blackening, and if the parts should be galvanized, this is your best bet!
You are looking for "Tinnit", and easy to use solution, that normally is used to apply (electrolessly) a tin plate onto PCBs' copper traces. It works quite well on brass too.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/er-18/tinnit-bright-tin-plate/1.html
Find an example here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=967801&page=9#post11881171
where I used it on large scale brass rigging fittings.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from cristikc in Cutting brass sheet
For cutting complex shapes in brass sheet (thick or thin), nothing beats a jeweler's saw (used with a proper "bench pin"). See:
http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117
I have a friend who cut out a beautiful example (two actually) of the cursive text "Chris Craft" in 1:8 scale from brass sheet... just takes patience!
No need to anneal your brass.
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from Landlocked123 in Cutting brass sheet
For cutting complex shapes in brass sheet (thick or thin), nothing beats a jeweler's saw (used with a proper "bench pin"). See:
http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117
I have a friend who cut out a beautiful example (two actually) of the cursive text "Chris Craft" in 1:8 scale from brass sheet... just takes patience!
No need to anneal your brass.
-
Patrick Matthews got a reaction from tkay11 in Cutting brass sheet
For cutting complex shapes in brass sheet (thick or thin), nothing beats a jeweler's saw (used with a proper "bench pin"). See:
http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117
I have a friend who cut out a beautiful example (two actually) of the cursive text "Chris Craft" in 1:8 scale from brass sheet... just takes patience!
No need to anneal your brass.
-
Patrick Matthews got a reaction from mtaylor in galvanized fittings and chain
Tinning: You should try it! Much more durable than paint or blackening, and if the parts should be galvanized, this is your best bet!
You are looking for "Tinnit", and easy to use solution, that normally is used to apply (electrolessly) a tin plate onto PCBs' copper traces. It works quite well on brass too.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/er-18/tinnit-bright-tin-plate/1.html
Find an example here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=967801&page=9#post11881171
where I used it on large scale brass rigging fittings.
-
Patrick Matthews got a reaction from druxey in Cutting brass sheet
For cutting complex shapes in brass sheet (thick or thin), nothing beats a jeweler's saw (used with a proper "bench pin"). See:
http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117
I have a friend who cut out a beautiful example (two actually) of the cursive text "Chris Craft" in 1:8 scale from brass sheet... just takes patience!
No need to anneal your brass.
-
Patrick Matthews got a reaction from druxey in 3D Printing - Yet!
After having my article on 3D printing published in the NRG Journal last summer, I was pleased to see some actual parts show up in the Spring 2015 issue.
Hubert Mallet's article on an RNLI lifeboat includes a pair of engines which are 3D printed. And I think this is an excellent example of using the best tool (or process) for the job. The engines are "modern" mechanical items that lend themselves to modern modeling techniques. On the other hand, I would usually avoid 3D printing a part which simply needs, nay, demands, to be shaped from wood. And Mssr. Mallet has done the right thing here by shaping his model's wood hull from ... wood.
Nicely done, Hubert...
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from trippwj in 3D Printing - Yet!
After having my article on 3D printing published in the NRG Journal last summer, I was pleased to see some actual parts show up in the Spring 2015 issue.
Hubert Mallet's article on an RNLI lifeboat includes a pair of engines which are 3D printed. And I think this is an excellent example of using the best tool (or process) for the job. The engines are "modern" mechanical items that lend themselves to modern modeling techniques. On the other hand, I would usually avoid 3D printing a part which simply needs, nay, demands, to be shaped from wood. And Mssr. Mallet has done the right thing here by shaping his model's wood hull from ... wood.
Nicely done, Hubert...
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from Ryland Craze in 3D Printing - Yet!
After having my article on 3D printing published in the NRG Journal last summer, I was pleased to see some actual parts show up in the Spring 2015 issue.
Hubert Mallet's article on an RNLI lifeboat includes a pair of engines which are 3D printed. And I think this is an excellent example of using the best tool (or process) for the job. The engines are "modern" mechanical items that lend themselves to modern modeling techniques. On the other hand, I would usually avoid 3D printing a part which simply needs, nay, demands, to be shaped from wood. And Mssr. Mallet has done the right thing here by shaping his model's wood hull from ... wood.
Nicely done, Hubert...
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from augie in 3D Printing - Yet!
After having my article on 3D printing published in the NRG Journal last summer, I was pleased to see some actual parts show up in the Spring 2015 issue.
Hubert Mallet's article on an RNLI lifeboat includes a pair of engines which are 3D printed. And I think this is an excellent example of using the best tool (or process) for the job. The engines are "modern" mechanical items that lend themselves to modern modeling techniques. On the other hand, I would usually avoid 3D printing a part which simply needs, nay, demands, to be shaped from wood. And Mssr. Mallet has done the right thing here by shaping his model's wood hull from ... wood.
Nicely done, Hubert...
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Patrick Matthews got a reaction from mtaylor in 3D Printing - Yet!
After having my article on 3D printing published in the NRG Journal last summer, I was pleased to see some actual parts show up in the Spring 2015 issue.
Hubert Mallet's article on an RNLI lifeboat includes a pair of engines which are 3D printed. And I think this is an excellent example of using the best tool (or process) for the job. The engines are "modern" mechanical items that lend themselves to modern modeling techniques. On the other hand, I would usually avoid 3D printing a part which simply needs, nay, demands, to be shaped from wood. And Mssr. Mallet has done the right thing here by shaping his model's wood hull from ... wood.
Nicely done, Hubert...
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