Jaager
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Proxxon Router Bits
I checked Rio Grande and they sell a 90 degree Hart carbide burr 3/32" / 2.38mm shank.
Head size ranges from 0.9mm to 2.3mm.
The mfg is a German company Busch. They must have vendors on the right side of the Atlantic as well as the left side.
On your side -perhaps in a metric friendly shank.
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in vacuum for power tools
With that many hoses there is a possibility of your work bench resembling the apartment ceiling in Terry Gilliam's Brazil.
If you have not already done it, an in-line cyclone trap. It weighs less and is easier to move, so one long hose between it and the vac. The vac can stay in one place. If you are fortunate, that place is a separate room or outside. A radio remote router on-off box (not economy version) saves a lot of hassle.
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Jaager got a reaction from FriedClams in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Siggi,
As I viewed your table saw setup for the short pieces, I am wondering if your have or have considered making a sliding crosscut table? It helps with multiple replicate cuts on stock that is ~ 3/4 as long as the saw table is front to back if your table is the same XY as the table top. It also makes it easier to keep your fingers an addition step away from the blade.
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Jaager got a reaction from Siggi52 in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Siggi,
As I viewed your table saw setup for the short pieces, I am wondering if your have or have considered making a sliding crosscut table? It helps with multiple replicate cuts on stock that is ~ 3/4 as long as the saw table is front to back if your table is the same XY as the table top. It also makes it easier to keep your fingers an addition step away from the blade.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Tiger 1747 by Siggi52 - 1:48 - 60 gun ship from NMM plans
Siggi,
As I viewed your table saw setup for the short pieces, I am wondering if your have or have considered making a sliding crosscut table? It helps with multiple replicate cuts on stock that is ~ 3/4 as long as the saw table is front to back if your table is the same XY as the table top. It also makes it easier to keep your fingers an addition step away from the blade.
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Jaager got a reaction from druxey in Yellow Ochre versus Gold Paint for ship's carvings.
I read somewhere that the captain had to pay for the paint. I can really see me paying for actual gold in the paint that I bought, were I a ship's captain. A royal yacht might be a different situation, if the king paid.
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Jaager reacted to wefalck in Yellow Ochre versus Gold Paint for ship's carvings.
It seems that prototype practices varied over time and region (as always). However, if anything was gilded than it may have been only certain details or elements, to provide highlights on otherwise decorations painted in ochre.
Conversely, contemporary models often show a more liberal use of gold, being decorative objects already in their time.
I gather, the question is, do you want to show the ship as she appeared in real life or do you want to create a decorative object ?
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Jaager got a reaction from Canute in Yellow Ochre versus Gold Paint for ship's carvings.
I read somewhere that the captain had to pay for the paint. I can really see me paying for actual gold in the paint that I bought, were I a ship's captain. A royal yacht might be a different situation, if the king paid.
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Jaager got a reaction from bruce d in Yellow Ochre versus Gold Paint for ship's carvings.
I read somewhere that the captain had to pay for the paint. I can really see me paying for actual gold in the paint that I bought, were I a ship's captain. A royal yacht might be a different situation, if the king paid.
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Jaager got a reaction from wefalck in Running rigging color
I am trying to discern from your text just what your conditions are. The best that I can come up with is that you are using line supplied by Syren and are trying to change the color. If this is the situation, the line that you are attempting to color is poly/cotton blend threads which is the Syren starting material. The poly component is a synthetic polymer and not affected within its body by a dye - - there is nowhere for dye particles to penetrate. So the cotton takes it up and the poly does not. Some of your change is likely dye particles sloughing off of the plastic. Almost all dyes tend to use color fast material.
Plastic can be painted. Dyes are for natural plant based - cellulose - linen and cotton.
An experiment that I intend to do is using Liberon Van Dyck Walnut husk dye crystals. Saturated solution for standing and very dilute for running.
I have been hording linen yarn for a while. A major regret is that I did not buy a case of each size Cutty Hunk linen fishing line before the survivors of the owner transferred his remaining stock to a dumpster.
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Jaager got a reaction from AlleyCat in Mini lathe for mast making etc.
If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method, all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock. If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back. Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet. Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID and shims can make up the difference.
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Jaager got a reaction from mtaylor in Running rigging color
I am trying to discern from your text just what your conditions are. The best that I can come up with is that you are using line supplied by Syren and are trying to change the color. If this is the situation, the line that you are attempting to color is poly/cotton blend threads which is the Syren starting material. The poly component is a synthetic polymer and not affected within its body by a dye - - there is nowhere for dye particles to penetrate. So the cotton takes it up and the poly does not. Some of your change is likely dye particles sloughing off of the plastic. Almost all dyes tend to use color fast material.
Plastic can be painted. Dyes are for natural plant based - cellulose - linen and cotton.
An experiment that I intend to do is using Liberon Van Dyck Walnut husk dye crystals. Saturated solution for standing and very dilute for running.
I have been hording linen yarn for a while. A major regret is that I did not buy a case of each size Cutty Hunk linen fishing line before the survivors of the owner transferred his remaining stock to a dumpster.
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Jaager got a reaction from Gregory in Running rigging color
I am trying to discern from your text just what your conditions are. The best that I can come up with is that you are using line supplied by Syren and are trying to change the color. If this is the situation, the line that you are attempting to color is poly/cotton blend threads which is the Syren starting material. The poly component is a synthetic polymer and not affected within its body by a dye - - there is nowhere for dye particles to penetrate. So the cotton takes it up and the poly does not. Some of your change is likely dye particles sloughing off of the plastic. Almost all dyes tend to use color fast material.
Plastic can be painted. Dyes are for natural plant based - cellulose - linen and cotton.
An experiment that I intend to do is using Liberon Van Dyck Walnut husk dye crystals. Saturated solution for standing and very dilute for running.
I have been hording linen yarn for a while. A major regret is that I did not buy a case of each size Cutty Hunk linen fishing line before the survivors of the owner transferred his remaining stock to a dumpster.
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Jaager got a reaction from BenD in Running rigging color
I am trying to discern from your text just what your conditions are. The best that I can come up with is that you are using line supplied by Syren and are trying to change the color. If this is the situation, the line that you are attempting to color is poly/cotton blend threads which is the Syren starting material. The poly component is a synthetic polymer and not affected within its body by a dye - - there is nowhere for dye particles to penetrate. So the cotton takes it up and the poly does not. Some of your change is likely dye particles sloughing off of the plastic. Almost all dyes tend to use color fast material.
Plastic can be painted. Dyes are for natural plant based - cellulose - linen and cotton.
An experiment that I intend to do is using Liberon Van Dyck Walnut husk dye crystals. Saturated solution for standing and very dilute for running.
I have been hording linen yarn for a while. A major regret is that I did not buy a case of each size Cutty Hunk linen fishing line before the survivors of the owner transferred his remaining stock to a dumpster.
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Jaager got a reaction from thibaultron in Mini lathe for mast making etc.
If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method, all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock. If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back. Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet. Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID and shims can make up the difference.
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Jaager got a reaction from bruce d in Mini lathe for mast making etc.
If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method, all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock. If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back. Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet. Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID and shims can make up the difference.
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Jaager got a reaction from Gregory in Mini lathe for mast making etc.
If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method, all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock. If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back. Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet. Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID and shims can make up the difference.
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Jaager got a reaction from shipman in Mini lathe for mast making etc.
If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method, all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock. If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back. Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet. Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID and shims can make up the difference.
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Jaager got a reaction from allanyed in Mini lathe for mast making etc.
If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method, all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock. If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back. Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet. Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID and shims can make up the difference.
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Jaager got a reaction from RegAuthority in Mini lathe for mast making etc.
If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method, all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock. If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back. Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet. Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID and shims can make up the difference.
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Jaager got a reaction from BobG in Mini lathe for mast making etc.
If you are only going to use it for spars and are not content to use the hand tool - square to octagon etc. method, all that is needed is a motor to turn the stock. If working the stock directly without a tool post or tool rest, a 1/2" drill will turn the stock.
Just build a jig to hold the drill on its back. Another jig to hold an upright stick with a ball bearing race can support the distant end.
Unlike the sort of small lathe that you are evaluating, which will have a way that is shorter than most masts, a drill jig can have any length of one piece way up to 8 feet. Ball bearing races come in a wide variety of ID and shims can make up the difference.
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Jaager reacted to allanyed in Books for the montanes
Robert,
If you want to build a 74 with a book or full set of drawings, you may want to consider a French or English ship. Anatomy of the Ship series has the Bellona (1760) but you will still need a good set of drawings of at least for the body plan and profile which you can get from RMG Hopefully some member will have info on a book or set of drawings for a Spanish 74, but I do not recall seeing anything like what you want. Good luck with your search, it will be great to see if you come up with something.
Allan
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Jaager got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Running Rigging Line Color Differences
As far as the running rigging color, I would think it would depend on the story that you are telling.
Navy - Just leaving the rigging dock for the first time - depending on the dock stores, all could be from the same lot - uniform color. new rope
Merchant - even then I could imagine that differences could happen - chasing a deal, there could be more than one source for rope.
Hemp color may not have been uniform - different seasons, different varieties grown by suppliers. Since they probably had to save seed from year to year from themselves, I wonder if there was even a common concept of "variety" yet?
Been at sea - the most used lines could have been replaced with new. If only a section was worn, even a single line could have a different color section where a patch was made.
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Jaager reacted to bolin in Got a suggestion for books?
I don’t have Monfelds book, so I can’t judge how it compares to my go to book, Harold Underhills Plank-on-frame models. It is a bit dated, and he does not describe the latest material or techniques. That is actually the books strength. He describe how to build a model using simple tools, many of which are home made. He wrote it just after the war when he had few tools available. This means that you learn the fundamentals, which can be simplified with access to better tools and materials. Such as modern glues.
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Jaager got a reaction from rock harris in I’m a newbie, other newbies listen to me!
Plastic model assembly is not really all that much help in preparation for the skills and tools used for building a wooden hull.
A major advantage of a wood based model for a plastic one is that it is much easier to backup and redo - often with much better quality wood - if you so choose. The plans that come with the kit should have the patterns for the parts that have been poorly assembled. Obtain plywood stock, It can be AA quality and thicker than the kit supplied. Scan the patterns - double check for any scanner distortion and adjust and cement to the new plywood, cut the replacement parts out and assemble using your hard learned experience. Check the vendors here, planking stock is available. The species will be much more scale appropriate.
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