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RossR
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Help with understanding the rigging diagram
RossR replied to Linda DOBLE's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The books mentioned in some the previous posts can be great resources, but may not be applicable to your ship if I am correct and it is the Amerigo Vespucci, as it was built much later in the 1930s. -
Help with understanding the rigging diagram
RossR replied to Linda DOBLE's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I did a little research on the Occre web site and it looks like you are building their Amerigo Vespucci. I think this is probably Occre's most impressive model ship. I looked at the plans for the yards, and I believe there should be a small 1 mm hole near the end of the yard that the line passed through. This would represent the sheave that Roger mentioned and would be instead of the block shown on the diagram that Gregory provided. Both are correct, but I suspect the sheave in the yard became more common than the block on later ships. There is a great build log of this ship on this form by a user named Daniel that you may want to look at if you haven't already. You may be a little further along than him, but he may have some thoughts on the rigging for this ship. Good luck with your build. -
I assume that bending iron was used for your violin builds.
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Help with understanding the rigging diagram
RossR replied to Linda DOBLE's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
These look like Occre rigging plans. What ship are you building? Do the yards have a hole near the end that the line passes through? On the HMS Beagle that line, I believe it is called the sheet, is attached to the lower corner of the sail and passes through a hole near the end of the yard then the line is run through the block as you indicate with your highlighter. if you can let me know what ship you are building I will look at the rest of the plans from Occre ( assuming it is an Occre model) and confirm that is how Occre intends the rigging to be installed. -
Looking forward to seeing your craftmanship at work.
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Do you use the activator mentioned on the label or just the glue by itself?
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No. I think it is a single layer of 1mm x 3mm or 1mm x 2mm lime wood.
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Frigate Diana by RossR - OcCre - 1:85
RossR replied to RossR's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Last month I posted that work was going to get in the way for awhile, and as expected progress on the ship has been slow. I did manage to get the main shrouds attached. I managed to do a better job lining up the deadeyes on the main shrouds than I did on the fore mast shrouds. I have the ratlines added to the starboard side. I figure I am about halfway through the ratlines. I have tied 1029 clove hitches so far. I purchased this model when I was almost finished with my HMS Beagle. I thought if I enjoyed rigging the Beagle get something even bigger with more rigging. After all those clove hitches I understand why so many people build cutters instead of frigates. Thanks for all the views. On to the port side.
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I think definitely consider blacken the chain plate, the eye bolts, the pintles and gudgeons and the chains. There are some builds on MSW that made wood doors and window frames instead of using the brass ones provided and they looked great. I discovered MSW as I was finishing my Beagle and when I look at it now my only regret is all the brass. I wish I had blackened it.
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The material provided for the second layer of planking is an extremely thin veneer. Most kits provide 1/16 inch thick material for the second planking. The method suggested above may not work as intended with the thin veneer. I would watch the videos and give it a try, but also watch the videos from Occre and then decide which method will work best. Does anyone know of a build log for a two layer planked Occre kit that successfully used the egde bending techniques in Chuck’s video? The technique demonstrated in Chuck’s videos will produce a more authentic model, and that is certainly something to strive for, but I think the materials you are working with on this model may not be right for that technique.
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It is easy for me to offer an opinion since I haven’t started mine, but I do think it make sense to start the beveling of the forward bulkheads before they are attached. It will be impossible to file or sand with a forward motion after they are attached because you run into the building board.
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Regarding the notches in the fore keelson, I think the notch needs to allow for a smooth transition from bulkhead into the rabbet for the planking. You will need to adjust that notch accordingly based on how the bulkhead fits.
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- half hull planking project
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If you are making your chain plate from wire, there is a good description of how to do this in the instructions for the Brig Syren from Model Shipways. The instructions can be downloaded from the Model Expo website.
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I agree. I remember having a lot left. Any that you use going forward you will probably drill a hole and glue the nail in place. You won’t use them for the deck at all. Just glue for the deck.
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With your hull complete, what requires nails? Don't be intimidated. based on your progress so far, I think you will be happy with your results. I also build this kit as my first model and loved every minute of the build. I found the ships boats to be the hardest part, but based on your planking you should do fine.
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Have you found the youtube videos that Occre produced for this kit?
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Excited to see so many build logs for this kit right now. I have this one on the shelf and I am follow all of these closely.
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I like what you’re doing with your approach. I am taking a similar approach on my current build.
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This was my first ship also. Have you been watching Occre’s YouTube videos on building this ship?
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Very nicely done. I have this kit on the shelf and I am looking forward to getting started. Have you thought about how you will cut the slots for the bulkheads deeper yet?
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Hello from Duluth, Minnesota - and request for direction.
RossR replied to Joseph Lapp's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome. Nice to have another member from Minnesota. -
Contact cement would not be a good choice for gluing planks to bulkheads. It can be useful if applying a second layer of planking when 100% of the surface has contact with first layer. Occre suggests it for their double planked models, and it works well with the extremely thin second layer they provide. I am not sure I would use it with thicker material.
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Have you decided if you will cut the planks out of a larger sheet like on this project or if you will edge bend thinner planks use a technique like the one Chuck has demonstrated? I have both the NRG kit and the Syren model on the shelf, so I will be curious which way you go.
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What are you doing to prep the material before you blacken it? I have had good luck with a long soak in alcohol (I usually leave it in overnght) then a 20 minute soak in white vinegar after a rinse in distilled water I put it into the Brass Black solution. Then another rinse in distilled water. Sometimes the finish isn't very smooth, but you can buff it with a soft cloth. Also, how do you like your Veritas chisels? I just puchased them a week or so ago.
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