chris watton

I did Bellona prototype using Tanganyika

I didn't actually build a lot of the prototype Pegasus model, the in house Amati modeller did, as I was asked to start another project (and the parts didn't really need checking as the major parts were that of Fly). I was slightly narked with this, as I had earmarked Tanganyika for the hull planking as, at that particular time, Amati had an unusually darker shade of walnut strip stock. Walnut looks good for 16th and 17th Century subjects (or for models that are fully painted, like Victory or Vanguard), but too dark for later periods. But this is just my personal preference. As for boxwood, it is simply way too expensive for (relatively) high volume commercial kits.

I hate the look of Pegasus, though, I wanted the second planking in a lighter wood, that model is way too dark. If anyone reads this and is thinking of buying one, use a lighter wood for the second planking, it will look so much better. ETA - I have plans for Atalanta...

Pegasus has a much cooler figurehead!

OK, coppering finished (will post pics later this week) and hull masked and black paint applied to the main wale and prow. I do not want to paint the hull too much as I like the 'warmth' of the natural wood when varnished. I have been thinking a lot about the rabet's for future kits, and how best to implement them. I never really look at other kits, I never have. What I have found over the past couple of weeks is that kits with rabet's always are of the single planked variety, and not double planked, which confounds the issue slightly. Personally, I do not like single planked hulls because the bulkheads/frames are sometimes too far apart, meaning the planking in between the frames can have gaps if the planks are not pre-bent to perfection. I see 'proper' framed models, with framing very close together that does have the proper thickness of single planking. This works, I think, because the very close spacing of the frames act like the first layer of planking as seen on commercial double planked kits. Anyway, I digress, back to the rabet's. I have thought about the possibilities of having the main false keel, say, 6mm thick. Then, adding a 3mm thick pre-cut strip running the whole length of the keel, from the prow to the upper stern area. Then having the exposed keel, prow and stern post back in 6mm thickness wood. A jig would have to be included to ensure the 3mm keel is equidistant when attached to the 6mm keel. The trouble is, because it will be double planked, the slot needs to be quite wide, and wider in some areas than others. This is because I cannot just add up the thicknesses of the 1.5 and 1mm planking and use that. The front planking terminates at an angle, so the end of the planks will be angled, making the thickness a lot more than either 1.5 or 1mm. Anyway, this is the area I have been thinking about, trying to make it work for double planked kits...

Cyano gel, just a dab in the middle. One of those sheets of plates is enough to do one complete side plus another couple of rows of the other side, so two will be included.

A professional model figure painter, the guy who does my resin castings put me in touch with him. At least now I have pictures for proper paint reference. I think the Nelson figure is being done next week. About 75% done for the copper plating for Speedy. I did decide to not include the pre made stern post and prow plate patterns. I thought it would be a good idea to have these pre-made as they would give the correct waterline level both fore and aft, plus the ends would not have to be trimmed. However, thinking on this some more, I decided against it (the circled patterns in the pic will not be in the kits), the plates still have to be trimmed, and I know that you need to trim them perfectly so as not to stand out too much where they meet between planking and keel/prow. This area could so easily turn into an eyesore. It is better to allow the plate to run fully to the edges, both fore and aft. (IMOHO of course..) The copper plate rudder pattern, plus the slightly curved lower keel copper plates pattern are to be kept, however.

Just received some pics of the painted Cochrane figure, Nelson is next. I am just copper plating at the moment...

For Speedy, it's been boring stuff like painting the inner bulwarks red. Still use a mix of Humbrol for the red, so takes a lot longer to dry between coats. Planking complete, along with main wale, and have just added the prow. I have added a few 'alignment jigs' with the 3mm MDF to help ensure the prow remains straight whilst the glue cures - nothing worse than a wonky prow! Like the Alert, the keel is not completely straight at the bottom, but has a slight curve.. I think I shall leave the masking tape over the deck for as long as possible.

Cheers, I didn't think these stern frames would be an issue, as I know that when they are in place, the stern counter is then glued in place onto them, leaving only the 'stubs' of the frames showing. originally, and when building the prototype, the upper parts that the upper stern board fits to were the full height of the stern board. But I shortened them to the height of the hull planking instead, as I knew they would be too easily broken. I think I photoshopped mine for the construction pictures in the manual, so they appear shorter. I do not think I be adding the slotted rabbet line on all future kits after Speedy, though, seems to be more trouble than it's worth

I haven't received the MDF stern frames yet. As soon as I have them, I will post them off. I suspect that most stern frames will be fine, but some may break. If the stern counter and stern board are glued sooner rather than later to the frames, they should be fine. I have put one together using the limewood parts myself, and I had no problems - but I am sure some will have problems, which is why I did actually specify MDF for these parts, and am not happy I was sent these parts in limewood.

When I got home from work this morning, before going to bed, I glued the deck in place, so it had plenty of time to cure. This morning, I planked the inner bulwarks, painting the planks first (although they will need painting again), so I have a nice clean line between deck edge and lowest plank on the bulwark. I will now mask off the deck, as it will be so easy to damage it, and then sand the inner bulwarks smooth and re-paint after filing out the sweep and gun port openings.

I have F-360 but haven't really used it yet, Interesting to read that the program is slow when lots of info in on the file you're working with. I get this with my program (TC Platinum 2019). By the time I have all of the designs and drawings for plans on one fine, it is very sluggish and a chore to work with, so then have to separate the drawings to different files. I am wondering if it is the size of the plans you are using? I now bring in my scanned plans in as PDF, making the file a lot smaller and better to work with, having better line definition compared to JPEG.

Cheers! I never intended to do another Speedy, but just do this one up to a certain stage, but realised I could not due to the first prototype showing the stern board glued into position after the second planking was complete. So have no choice but to carry on with this one. Perhaps I will finish the other (pear wood) version as Speedy's sister, Flirt. I did think it a mistake to not fix the keel, stern post and prow in place yet, but feel the prow will be vulnerable until all hull planking is finished and sanded - and I cannot add the keel and stern post until the prow is in place. Planking the inner bulwarks next. Using single strips will be tricky, as the stern is closed off so planks need to be perfect in length. A better solution may be to cut the single planks in half and glue one at the front to half way, and measure up and glue the other half from the stern to the end of the front plank. If I were building this for a commission, or for myself as a display model, I may take more time, but I just need to build it to look decent for box art. Plus, I know that if I can build it this quick without much trouble, slap it together, as it were, then almost anyone will be able to build it. I have seen what some of you guys can do, and it's much better than some of my efforts.

Last post before work.. Bulkhead tabs removed and sanded flush with top edge of deck, and some parts painted red before the pre cut and laser engraved deck is glued in place. This is the time where you chose to use this deck or want to plank it yourself...

Yesterday I did most of the second planking, using Tanganyika, and this morning sanded the hull smooth. Next I will remove the inner bulkhead tabs and add the deck and planking the inner bulwarks. But not today, work soon...

Fantastic model, very well done, it looks perfect!

First planking sanded, ready for second planking. Won't win any prizes for planking perfection, but more than good enough for the basis for second planking, which I will do in Tanganyika for this one. I think the toughest part of the build (for me at least) is trying to sort out the best way of doing the very fine vertical 'V' shaped headrails. They are only 1mm wide according to the original plans, and I hate having to make things like this too thick. With that in mind, I did two separate designs for the 'V' rails in 0.6mm PE (the two sets of long patterns in the PE pic), and in the other pic, I was trying one type last night (nothing glued, just checking everything connected as they should) On the real thing, these 'V' frames must have been nothing more than very 'scanty' timbers connected to the prow and headrail. I would like to keep that delicate look if possible.

It does, no need to plank the whole of the false keel area as the second planking will cover it. if I planked the whole lot, all I would end up doing is sanding it all back off again.

And here is the full suite of studio shots taken at Amati of the fully completed model.

Here you go, some I don't think I have shown before..

Today, well, this afternoon, I started and finished the first planking, no drama. Will leave until tomorrow to sand it so it looks a lot more presentable...

Right, Just reinstated the little lines denoting the upper edge of the main wale, and also added the location holes for the inner bulwark cleats on the gun port patterns. Also, added more tabs to the rabbet line on the prow. These are now the kit versions. Also attached is one of the 6 50x70cm sheets for masts (already done), yards and rig, before being imported into Adobe InDesign for text and other stuff..

Thanks! regarding a laser machine, I could get out a large loan and get one, along with the workshop space I would need to rent, as I am not sure I would be allowed to have one in my garage with the noise 24/7 in a residential area. Nothing to do with being brave, more to do with economics. I would rather invest my (little) money in stuff like decent materials, resin castings and nice printing. It may surprise you to learn that even some of the largest manufacturers sub contract their laser cut work, and as far as I know, due the chemical process, all photo etched parts are sub contracted. Thank you, although I hesitate to be called expert, I see a lot of stunning work on these forums. OK, this morning (got up very late..), I took off the clamps and pins holding the gun port patterns in place, the basic structure is now more than strong enough to take the planking, with the stern especially being a lot more protected than my first prototype. I think the only way to break any part now would be to drop it from a height onto a hard floor. It has taken a day's work to get to this stage, but perhaps 3 hours work, as most of the time was taken was waiting for the PVA glue to cure. On the last photo, I added a series of small marks under each gun port. I have since deleted these, but I am wondering if I should reinstate them, as they are markers for the curve and height on the main wale, and where the second planking should start. The last pics are from the first prototype, where I just slapped everything together to check that everything aligned as it should and the various openings for bitts and masts were fine. If you look at the stern frames, they come further down the deck than the second prototype, I thought they were too obtrusive, so shortened them as much as I dared without compromised structural integrity. Also, I have the cast resin cannon ready for the prototype model, the 4 pounder and half pounder. The first 50 kits will be this colour, but after this they will be cast in black resin (why didn't I ask for black resin to begin with, dammit)!

Cheers! Looking at the nice clear stand, I think it will get scratched/marked too much whilst in the building process. To remedy this, I have just added a slightly simpler cradle to one of the 3mm MDF sheets, so the modeller can use this when building, and then change the stand for the clear acetate version when all done. ETA - Ply gun port patterns have been clamped, pinned and glued in place, so will have to leave it until tomorrow now..