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marktiedens

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Everything posted by marktiedens

  1. Thanks Mike! Now that I look at it some more,maybe I should have used walnut veneer instead of cherry to better match the pre-stained keel & stem. I tried to sand off the pre-stained keel, but it had penetrated too deep to sand off. I wish OcCre had not pre-stained it. Mark
  2. Update - the second planking with cherry veneer is now done! Not perfect,but I am pleased with it. Now for a little sanding - not too much as it would be easy to sand clear through the veneer. No drop planks or stealers were necessary. Mark
  3. Thanks Nigel - planking is already well underway. Not going too bad - just takes some time to shape the spiled planks. Mark
  4. Thanks Michael - bending lengthwise is not a problem as you can see in the picture. However,it just buckles if you try to force it sideways,so each plank has to be shaped very closely. Mark
  5. Mike - the veneer is .019" thick. Pete - never thought of that,although I don`t think I will need the tape now. What I would like is to find some wide(2 inches or more) low tack tape to help with the spiling - all the art & craft stores in my area only have the one inch wide tape. Mark
  6. Just a little update on my experiment to use cherry veneer. The transom was planked first leaving a gap for the rudder post. The lower hull planking was then started. This veneer has to be spiled around the bow - there`s no edge bending this stuff! With the scale of this ship at 1:46,I am cutting the planks from the veneer sheet at 7mm wide,tapered down to 4mm where it`s spiled at the bow. The veneer is a bit fiddly to work with but so far,so good. This is gonna take a while............................... Mark
  7. I agree - that looks like the thing to do. If that is a metal casting across the bottom of the counter,it can be tweaked to match the curve if it is the same soft metal that is used on the Royal William - I had to "tweak" many of those castings. Mark
  8. Hi Mike - I understand what you are saying. From the position of the 2 outer supports I would be tempted to maybe add some 3mm basswood strips to the bottom edge & fair them at an angle to match the run of the planking. How does it look when laying a plank across the bulkheads forward of the transom? With the forward bulkheads faired the planks should show a smooth curve up to the transom. Just speculation on my part since I don`t have this kit to compare. Any thoughts from Pete? With this being a double planked hull, I think the first planking should be done before planking the transom. Mark
  9. Thanks Peter - the easy part is done. The hard part is trying to get the second planking right. Right now I am trying to line off the hull,but have 2 problems. 1 - I can`t find any narrow tape that will stick to the hull. 2 - this is a really bluff bow,so no matter how I lay the tape it just doesn`t look right. I might just end up drawing lines on the hull with a pencil instead of tape. Mark
  10. Hi everyone - a little update. The first planking is now sanded nice & smooth. I had to add a little filler due to not using filler blocks at the bow. Mark
  11. Hi Zapto - the planks were thinned at the front using a small plane & sandpaper. Then they were edge bent after soaking in water for about 15 minutes. The limewood is pretty soft,so it was not too difficult to bend. The dark brown planks will be covered by the wales - I put them there so I would know where to attach the wales. Mark
  12. Hi everyone - another update. The first planking is now done below the level of the lower wale. I used 1.5 by 6mm strips of limewood for this. Now i`ve got a lot of sanding to do - may need to add a little filler at the bow area to some low spots. Mark
  13. Great job! She`s a real beauty. Mark
  14. Thanks Michael. As you can see,the planking on the upper half of the hull is something called ramin(maybe another term for basswood?) & has very inconsistent color & grain. I intend to paint the upper part with black & yellow ochre as shown in the pictures in my first post,so it doesn`t really matter. Mark
  15. A small update - planking is done & sanded smooth from the waist to the level of the lower wales. The blanks for the dummy cannon barrels of the lower gun deck were glued in place & painted flat black,along with painting the inside of the gunports red. This is a single planked hull,so I needed to get it nice & smooth. Below the lower wale I am going to double plank the hull with some cherry veneer(I hope). The planking on the upper part of the hull is 2mm thick,so I`m using some 1.5mm thick lime to do the first layer of planking below the wale,which after adding the second planking should come out very close to the same thickness as the upper planking. Any slight variation will not be noticeable due to the wale separating the upper & lower halves of the hull. I`ve never tried using veneer for planking,so if it doesn`t seem to be working ok I can always sand it down & use some of the usual .5mm thick strips. Mark
  16. Don`t know how I missed this one - I built this kit "out of the box" many moons ago. You`re doing a great job. Mark
  17. Thanks Michael. So far this is a much easier build than the Royal William despite the much lesser quality of wood. I am experimenting a little to see if I can cut some strips of cherry veneer to use on the lower part of the hull instead of the kit wood - it`s difficult to cut consistently even. Mark
  18. Update - the poop deck,stem&keel,and the lower gunport frames have been added. The keel & stem are plywood,pre-stained,so I lined the edges with a veneer stained to match. Also,the planking has begun. Mark
  19. Thank you for that info,Piet. I had no idea someone wrote a book on this ship. I will probably not purchase it for now as my budget is pretty tight right now. Maybe later. Mark
  20. Hi everyone - the next thing to do is the inner bulwarks at the aft end of the ship. It comes in one long laser cut piece,which I painted red & glued to the bulkhead extensions - I had to look closely at the pictorial instructions to position it right. Next,the aft cabin walls were made up. The doors & windows are bronzed metal & were pretty well done. The instructions say to cut out the window inserts from the paper provided,but I thought it looked kind of cheesy,so I made my own windows by gluing some black window screen material to some clear acetate,then cut them to fit. Next,the cabin wall were chiseled out & painted yellow. Then the doors & windows were glued in place. The instructions indicated just painting the walls brown,which would look awful,so I planked them with some walnut strips. It came out that the doors & windows were close to flush with the planking,which I thought looked much better than just glued on & painted around. Mark
  21. Wow - nice looking sails! Will you be doing all the fore & aft staysails also? Mark
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