marktiedens

Dear all,
a small update on my Sea Fury interiors. I completed the cockpit bathtub with the still missing photoetched parts and added some more wear on the floor below the pedals, as suggested above by Ken:
 

 
The seat was completed with the Eduard seatbelts:
 

 
The gunsight was added to the instrument panel. As I said before, the gunsight was not included in the parts of the kit and the compass was missing as well. These are some of the few omissions in this otherwise very good kit.
 

 
Finally, the cockpit is assembled:
 

 
Clearly, the Eduard set adds another level of detail, at the cost of a bit of time (quite a bit) to be spent in folding and assembling the various components. The drawback is that all that work will be hardly seen from the rather small cockpit opening. 😒
 
This is the last work done on this model for now. I still want to do some more work on my ship before the close of the year. I wish you all a great and more 'normal' new year.
Best regards,
Dan.
 

Hi all I bought this with money i got for Christmas.
Its a very complex kit (far more so than I expected)

Thanks for the likes.
Attached is progress on upper deck planking.
Next will be the cabin walls.  The dreaded ply again.
I have already decided to plank them.
Also to be planked will be the inner bulwarks but I will use the ply pieces supplied as templates.
 
Happy New Year,
Sam.

Not much to report the plane has received another cote of clear actually a few added the headrest and LG are glued in place with hydraulics lines installed.The only thing left is the antenna ,pitot  tube,gun sight,canopy and whether to panel line her?I started chipping and it was just not happening same issue on the Kate?I finally realized it was my base black it's not glossy giving the grainy texture so the paint sticks to good to the silver.I then started using MM Metalizer Silver did not like it under the canopy on the L/side was going to repaint but remembered hey I have a gloss barrier q-tip and turpentine took care of it just had to touch up the original chips. Kevin
 
I messed up the decal on the tail the lower front kill marking came off out came the Waldron punch set it will pass muster.

The kit has a basic interior. For the most part, it cannot be seen while sitting on the shelf so I chose not to spend a lot of time trying to detail it all out. It's painted in a two-tone gray. Notice that some of the seats have the hollow seat backs so the fire fighters can be seated with their breathing apparatus on their backs.
 

Some details on the extension of the Harbour for this village.
Here is a diagram for the situation:

 
 
At the same time, my friend (for 3D) offered me his help for all the equipment on a scale that would be almost impossible to reproduce in wood with such finesse: various carts, boats, wheelbarrows, grinding wheel, wooden crates, barrels... And I can stay focused on the construction without spending tens of hours on accessories. All this with things I already have in wood and cardboard will give life to the whole!
 

 

 

 

The middle balcony railing is coming together. 
 
 

Got super bored with Constellation ship model, COVID isolation, et al, so I decided to take a break from ship modeling and break out a few plastic kits. This kit is the HH60-J US Coast Rescue chopper, however, I decided to paint it the Centennial colors as shown in USCG photos below. Sorry, did not take any step by step photos. 
 
USCG Centennial colors
 

My finished model 
 
o
Alongside the 1:48 scale Dolphin
 

Next up is the 1:72 Otter by Revell

 

I have the more expensive Tamiya Yamato kit, and it is so much better than the standard older kit.
 
As it's snowing heavily here today, I won't be going to the workshop to sand the prototype hull. Instead, I thought I'd dry fit another critical area, the bow. This is made up of 14 parts and, as with Duchess and fishing boats (and all new future kits), it has the rabbet worked into the prow and keel parts. Again, these are just for checking and are throwaway parts..
 
The figurehead is the kit version. Each kit will have a 3-d printed figurehead with zero trimming required. The 20 x 9 pounder short cannon barrels will also be 3-d printed in a matt black colour, an example of which is shown. I have given Jim two sets of carriages, a set with and a set without the cap squares pre-cut into the cheek. I think the pre-cut cap squares may win the day. Ladders this time will be laser cut and etched in 0.6mm pear, making them more to scale, thickness-wise (5 ladder sets altogether for Sphinx)

Mounted up the wings with a brass tube through the fuselage set the dihederal with a couple of stain cans

Will have to give this paint some time to cure before I apply chrome trim, accessories, interior, and decals. In the back of the cab where it's got the diamond plate texture, will mask that off and paint it aluminum. The decals will be as per the box art. I received some alternate decal lettering for Philadelphia, Scranton, and Baltimore, but I prefer the quality of the kit decals, College Park. The alternate decal sheet appears too small, out of scale. Maybe it's 1:32 scale instead of 1:24 scale. 
 
 

Hi all my missus bought me this for Christmas, since I enjoyed the 1/4 Porsche 547 engine by the same manufacturer so much.
 

Well with the cockpit complete everything took a sudden huge leap! Was quite a surprise! Glued 3 joints and this was the result.
 

 
some big big gaps in the wing roots which I’d already mentioned and discussed, went with building the wings as per the instructions. Ended up getting both types of Vallejo putty bottles and I like how runny it is. Just wish It would dry a bit harder as I’m finding if I’m not really careful sanding that chunks of the filler come off. The good side to that issue is because it’s a bit rubbery it’s got lots of play so won’t crack when it’s flexed.
have a feeling it will take awhile to do all the filling and get the rest of the bits on before the prime.

Shrouds are installed as well as all of the bowsprit rigging. All of the shrouds (masts and bowsprit) are served over their entire length. It seems to take forever and gets a bit tedious, but it does add a lot going to the effort to do it. The pin racks have also been installed between the deadeyes and seized. 

Meanwhile also installed the topgallant sails on the main mast and the fore mast, except for the bowlines.
The lines for the lift are tied to the deadeyes on the platform and also the clewlines will be so. This makes them more or less independent from the rest. There are several belaying plans for the Wasa, and I have taken this configuration from the plan that I found in the built-log of md1400cs. I noticed, that in the Billing Boats plans, also the lines from the topgallant sails go to the belaying pins in the railings.
The halyards are both connected via spiders to the stays. For the main topgallant sail, I made a 8-line spider block, which was actually a mistake that made it more difficult. I realized later that all plans show 6-line spider blocks, and I made thus 6-line spider blocks for the foremast topgallant.

 

 

Now a word of warning. Chris has done some fantastic laser work but because of this some
pieces are very fragile. Please use caution when handling some of the pieces. I knocked off a
piece inside the red circle. Luckily I found the piece and was able to glue it back on.
 

 
So let my meat hooks be an example of what not to do! 🤪

Thanks Glenn and Jean-Paul and all the likes too!
 
Trying to catch up the build log.
 
Here you'll see the inner bulwark patterns, the outer bulwarks painted blue and red, upper fore and main upper rail patterns clamped in place to dry.
 

 
Now the fore mid and aft gunwales have been painted and glued in place. 
 
Here are the main upper rails and wales formed and painted and glued in place.
 

 

I do not know yet, but am hoping for April/May release. If I get furloughed again, maybe sooner!
 
Just dry fitted (not glued in place until outer hull planked) forecastle and quarterdeck beams, all seems fine..
 
ETA - All upper deck beams will be in pearwood

Moving along with some painting.
 

On the occasion of the coming New Year, I wish you all A happy new year! Thank you for your attention and encouragement. I will continue to work on the project as planned and try to finish it in the new year.
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

I started to make the gun carriages.

Hi Druxey,
I'm using Swiss Pear wood.   As for the bending method... due to thickness I've found basically that the planks must soak for several hours. I then use Chuck's method of clamping the piece to some scrap plywood and hitting it with a heat gun, moving it constantly to dry the wood for about 10 minutes or so.  Then let it cool.   I've found it takes the better part of the day to sit as anything less then about 5 hours leaves center still damp.  
 
On that note, the upper wale (and the thickest) is on and the glue is drying.  For the hull below the wales, the planks are thinned out some and tapered eventually to the final thickness  I think I posted a copy of the cross-section that shows this.  So unless there's outside distractions, planking should pick up speed.
 
I found that in order to get the top wale in position (it's the key to the rest of the hull planking) I needed to identify accurately the wale location.   I did this by printing out the Hull Plan and cutting it up.  There's a line that not's mentioned in the text but it's the top of the wale so I cut the plans, taped it to the side using the gunports as a reference and marked up the hull.   I then put the wale planks in place.  Three long planks per side. The most troublesome part was getting the bow plank fitted.  It needs to be bent in two directions and also as a small twist.  Here's some photos of the process. Note that I've not done any cleanup work.  I still need to blend in the joins on the planks and some shaping.  At some point I'll pull back further and get the whole hull in a pic.  
 
Things still look pretty ugly but then, like my Dad used to say about Corned Beef.... you really don't want to see it being made...


 

Hatchways.
 

Thank you for the nice words and the likes. Another two frames done. This building step may take some time and I fear I won‘t have anything new to show except frames within the next weeks. As a few  frame parts have very ugly defects (black spots) I am going to scratch-build replacement parts as needed but this will also slow-down the progress. The next frames (12 - 15) will have some slight bevelling that has to be done. Stay tuned .. and save.