SaltyScot

They do have their uses in the shipyard after all I hope she doesn't read that, I will be in trouble if she does......... Joking aside, it is always good to get a fresh set of eyes on something like that. I am just glad she dropped in when she did. Good woman

Phil, I was going to ask if you wet them beforehand but then hopped over to the links you shared and read the notes. I am going to get one of those wee irons, it will be a valuable addition to my (ever growing) tool chest here in the shipyard. As always, your insight is very much appreciated sir.

The issue is resolved. I had some 2.5 mm thick strips in my wood shop from some past job. I needed to add 2 mm to bulkhead #7 and take that much off bulkhead #6. The deck line is a lot smoother now and contacts each cross beam on the way across:

The reason for the low beam has been discovered. The CEO just happened to be in the shipyard this afternoon and I mentioned the issue to her. She saw straight away that bulkheads 6 and 7 were in the wrong place. If we go back to the 4th post in this blog, I wrote how similar those bulkheads were and that I had to change my decision as to which one was which several times: The solution is simple, I will lower #6 by filing it down to the measurement of #7 and raise #7 accordingly (if that makes sense). Once done I will check the outer measurements and make sure the "flow"of the hull is correct. By the way, the red numbers on the "ears" of the bulkheads that you see in post #52 above correspond to the cross beams and have nothing to do with the original bulkhead numbers (didn't want anyone getting confused there).

Ha, you do me too much justice, sir. I am finding the way you shaped those planks with the gain etc. to be a lot more intricate that modifying some plans

I second that, absolutely!

I find the work in the shipyard soothes me and puts my mind at rest, Glenn but, in this situation, I can only imagine how you must be feeling. I hope and pray she will be well, sir. That is all that is important right now.

It most certainly does and BE, you are doing it justice sir.

Thank you for the comments @Kenchington and @Dr PR. I had looked through both the plans and the instructions regarding the gap but could see no indication that the space was dedicated to anything in particular. I am going to recheck dimensions and spacings and then start shimming and/or sanding down.

I may wait it out a little before I tackle something like this Trevor, it looks incredibly involved. Watch and learn is the mantra of the day for me as far as this goes sir. I look forward to seeing her off the board!

Today I decided to start fairing the hull and, after finishing up the transom (finally!) I test fitted the rudder: I wanted to do a dry fit of the first strake and looked at the plans to get the correct measurements for where exactly the strake would sit: I then placed the plank accordingly to check the run along the bulkheads: I decided to make a simple jig to preshape the plank. I copied the shape from the kit plans and transferred it onto a piece of wood that I could lay the plank on. Then, it was simply a matter of soaking the planks (I did both sides at once) for a while and then securing it to the template with push pins: I will let these dry overnight and let them take the shape. I now turned my attention to seeing how the deck would sit on the cross beams once they were installed. I had wanted to put them in to get a deck height check on the bulkheads so that I could drop a few fillers in below deck level. Using a thicker plank from some scraps I had, I laid it across the beams: The bow and stern beams sat well and the plank I laid across to test the height hit all of the beams: The midship beams were a different matter. One of the beams was seriously low: My immediate thoughts are to bolster this beam up with shims to meet the deck height. At this point I can see no reason why I should not do that. If any of you see an issue I am overlooking, please feel free to chime in 🙂

With a fine, very sharp chisel that would work. If you work very carefully you should be able to do it.

Absolutely. Thank goodness for wooden clothes pins

Well thank you, Chapman, that was a nice thing to do. I did have the plans from Chapelle's book enlarged but this graphic is nice and crisp. Thanks again.

I like the way you coiled those ropes, I was thinking how I could do that on the Endeavour's deck and make it look neat, now I know how Don't beat yourself up mate, this is some fantastic work!

@AON made a good call there. It will be a tedious process but will solve your problem. I am sorry I didn't see this before you planked the deck, the issue could have been pointed out. Lesson learned eh, we've all been there.

I agree, she is starting to look real pretty and quite regal. I commend you on your precise work, sir. Very inspirational.

See, blame that on my not only old eyes but inexperienced ones as well I guess it was my excitement that clouded them over, Trevor. Always nice to her from you sir and thank you.

I received a nice message from @Jolly Jo this afternoon. He had found a build log for the Lynx in a German magazine from the 80's and sent it to me (thank you again, Jo!) What is very interesting is the image on page 17 of the magazine. It is titled "Baltimore Clipper 1812" and has a fantastic drawing of the deck plan. The odd part is the keel post and the counter. In this image from the German log, she has a counter: In the 1812 Lynx plans I have, she has no counter: I just found that interesting is all. The German log plans also show how the cannons were placed and rigged. Priceless!

I agree, the thinner ones look more to scale, Jo. Nicely done.

I had noticed an error on my part when I "fixed" the transom. The intention was to move the counter away from the keel post to make place for the rudder head (thank you once again @SardonicMeow for pointing that out to me). What I did instead was just increase the wrong side of the transom plate which didn't really affect the counter at all. I stripped it all down this morning, made new parts, including the counter, and glued them back on. I took the enlarged plans of the Musquidobit to hand and tried to replicate the counter she had (see red circle in the image below). I liked how the keel post fed straight up into the trailing edge of the counter. I had luckily not thrown away the support knees to mount the transom piece itself so they got tacked on again and the transom remounted.

I actually did that check on the Endeavour hull too, Phil. It certainly paid off.

I have that book out on loan from our local library right now (seriously considering buying it!). It is a fantastic reference book with a lot of information. You may not find your particular model in there, but it has a great section on privateer schooners near the front of the book with very explicit images. Enjoy!!

Schlau This is just another example of how much you care about your build!

This a fantastic mindset, Jo. It is important to be happy with what you do. We all get frustrated now and again but that is just reality telling us that our high expectations need taking down a notch or two Making mistakes is part of the hobby, it is also how we learn. You are definitely on the right path, your planking looks good and you have a game plan. I will de following along, sir. Ich bin jetzt dabei!