dvm27

If I see your new kit and some frome CAF and other manufacturers I asked myself why I started scratch building.
Really wonderful with a lot of innovative ideas.

Just a quick update.  It might not look like a lot of work was done since my last post but you would be surprised how involved the deck beams can be.
 
With the cabins on the fore lower platform completed,  you can start adding deck beams above them.  No reason to wait until everything is built below deck to do so.  In fact, waiting to do it all at one time wont be very enjoyable.  Doing it this way breaks up the task a bit.
 
This kit will be very simplified compared to the books.  Because we will be planking the gun deck in the "classic" contemporary model style,  there is absolutely no need to make and add the hanging and lodging knees.   In fact, this would up the difficulty factor by about ten.   So we will just be adding the deck beams with all of the carlings and ledges.  You can however follow the Seawatch books and scratch build the knees should you really want the total experience.
 
 
The photo below has a lot going on that was completed.
 

First, The first four deck beams were glued into position...
 
Then the carlings were added between them as shown on the plans.  The carling are cut to length using 3/16 x 5/32 strips.   
 
Lastly you may notice that the after most beams have a column under them at the center.   These are just 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length.  The corners are chamfered as shown on the plans.
 
With the first four beams added you can now add the ledges.   These are the thinner "partial beams" that extend from the carlings to the deck clamp.  They are laser cut for you with a special "leg" on the outboard ends.   This raises each ledge to the perfect height so it will be flush with the top of the gun deck beams.  So when you are cleaning the char off these...DONT sand the bottom or even the end with this "leg" on it.  Otherwise you wont have level ledges with your beams.    Hope that makes sense.
 
Now in that same photo above you can see the first few ledges (cleaned of laser char...no need to clean the bottom at all actually) resting in position.  All you have to do is cut the end that sits against the carling and glue it on position.
 
NOTE:  Now yes indeed...all of the carlings should be notched in the deck beams.   All of the ledges should be notched into the carlings.  But you know what...I am not going to do that.  And you dont have to either.  It simplifies things so much this way and those many mortices and notches are not so easy to make.  They will also mostly be completely covered up.   So you can decide.
 
 
Now this may all seem simple enough.  But finding the exact locations for these beams, carlings and ledges is super important.  Time and care must be taken to get their location correct....otherwise you will end up with hatches in the wrong  position and mast holes too!!  It could get ugly.
 
So use the plans.   If you have a second set printed.  Go ahead and cut them up.  You can see strategically placed cut outs on the template that allowed me to mark the locations of the carlings on the beams....and the ledges on the carlings.   This template also helped me position the deck beams properly which is the very first thing you need to do.  Finding you center line on those deck beams after they installed is also a huge help.  Gluing the parts in is easy enough...but the marking, measuring and planning takes time and patience.

 
Then its just a matter of cutting all of those ledges to length and gluing them in position.   There are a lot of them.  I believe 86 in total.   Note that these would also be down the center between the carlings and hatches also.  But once again they will be entirely covered up and its just a repetitive exercise that nobody will ever see.
 

To show you how the knees and other details like the ledges wont be seen...here is a look at this area with the deck planking cut and placed on the model as a test.  This shows what will be very close to the final appearance using the "classic contemporary model appearance".   But everyone can always deviate from that should they want to.
 

 
 

Finished the officers quarters and now making grates to cover the hatches,and start working on the enclosure around the mainmast and pump tubes.

Tafrail complete

I didn't actually notice that the swivel stocks were not on the original model Chuck. But the swivels ("ten 1/2 pounder swivel guns") are clearly noted in Winfield's British Warships in the Age of Sail 1714-1792 as specified for the Cruiser class. Of interest to us modelers is that only enough swivel guns to fit out one side was required. As they were so light they could be carried to the other side as needed.

Thank you guys...
 
I took a crack at the sailroom.
 
First I had to make the posts for the partitions.
 
There are thin laser cut strips that need to be glued to the sides of some 3/32" x 3/32" strips.   It might be hard to see but the laser cut strips are wider than needed.   You have to line up the open side with the edge of the 3/32" strip.  Let the other side hang over.   The upright on the left shows this.  Once the glue dries, you can sand that overhang down flush with the 3/32" strip.  This will leave rows of slanted slots for the louvers.   They should be open on both sides after sanding off the overhang.   There is also a long slot down the front edge that is created.  This is for the planked bottom of each partition.  
 
It is all shown on the plans.   The corner post gets two of these laser cut strips with the notches.  Just be careful when you glue them on so they are facing the right direction and the louvers will be able to slip into the slots easily.
 

Next I added the laser cut planked bottoms.  This essentially makes a nice two-sided partition.  The planking will fit into those long notches on the posts.  It is probably easier to see them in the photo below.  Keep a nice 90 degree corner with both sides.
 

Then its time to fit all of the louvers...for ventilation.
 
They are 3/32" x 1/64" strips.  Just cut them to length and start adding them.  Eight on each panel.
 

To finish off the sailroom..I made the door.  This is in two layers like all of the other bulkheads.   I made the door up and added the hinges and door handles.  Then I glued it to the louvered section of the sailroom.
 
Like this.
 

 
Now I could easily position the entire sailroom...hopefully.  It should line up and fit onto the 3/32" post already on the boatswains cabin.     And yes...we can finally glue the riding bitts into position permanently.
 

This pretty much finishes the cabins at the bow.   I was originally going to add a sail rack in the sailroom.  But after a lot of thought I realized it would never be seen.  The sailroom is pretty much covered up entirely by the deck planking and the deck beams.
 
In this photo I have fitted the deck beams as a test.  There will be several more between these larger deck beams too.   There are thin 3/32" deck beams...sometimes 3 or 4 between each of these larger deck beams.  They will obscure so much of the lower deck items.  But hopefully you will get a glimpse of some of this stuff as it is quite a bit of work to build it all.
 

 
The contemporary model with its many deck beams..
 

 
 

Those small details are lots of fun to add but you'll never see them on the final model, especially when encased. But some future observer will be delighted when they use their home Target brand home endoscope.

Thank you all for your comments and likes 😊
 
Another parts of the decoration added.
Just one notice: I wanted to start to make the decoration according to the Mc Cay´s book - but I couldn´t,  check it with the engrawing. So I started to make parts based by Payne.
I noticed it in several cases  the pictures in the book are sometimes a mix of both authors .
 
Jan

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.
Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.
Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.
Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.
Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

And nobody will ever see that detail once the deck beams and deck planking are completed.
 
Too funny Greg.  It actually takes a lot longer to design and draft these partitions than it does to build them.  Once they are actually laser cut,  it takes no time at all to clean them up and  install them.  
 
If only I could find someone else to do that front end work for me.
 
The sail room partitions wont be fun to design I can tell you that.  

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.
Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.
Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

What a pleasure it must be to be able to design and laser cut your own custom cabin partitions. You may not like kitchen sinking but I guarantee yours is the only model with the correct three nail pattern on the cabin planking.
Would you like to borrow Gus, our office cat, to take care of your rat problem?

Starting chapter 7
 
The first thing I wanted to do, just to get it out of the way...was to get all the gundeck beams made.  I cleaned the char off of all 11 beams now.  Then they were cut to length using the plans as a guide.  I also used the plans to establish where each deck beam is positioned.  For now I will just set them aside and grab them as I need them.   The last thing I wanted was to have to stop what I am doing just to clean char off a beam and cut it to length.  Its a comfort knowing they are all done and ready.
 
The photo below shows all the beams just resting on the deck clamp.
 

This allowed me the opportunity to cut all the templates and see what the planking scheme would look like so I can adjust it now rather than later.   I think its a good plan as is...and I wont make any adjustments, yet.
 

 
With the beams all ready and at hand, I could start making the cabins on the lower platform at the bow.
 
Each bulkhead will be made in two layers.   Both are 1/32" thick and are laser etched with a bunch of reference lines.   Now it would be easy enough to make these from scratch but this does make the building process quicker.  Especially since very little of these will be seen.  Below are the sections for the carpenters cabin on the starboard side.   It shows both sides.  I cleaned the char from the inside edges of the door panels and then glued up each layer.
 
Before I add any details I made sure they fit on the model.  I adjusted them to fit nicely in position and adjusted the heights etc.   This is why it is good to have those deck beams handy.  You need to have the first two beams in position to get the heights correct.
 

 
Once I was sure they fit on the model OK (see the deck layout for details), I started added the hinges and stanchions.

First I added the upright timbers which are either 1/8" x 1/8" strips cut to length or 3/32" x 3/32" strips.  The plans show which.   Then I added the door handles and hinges.   Make sure to add the handles on both sides of the door.   And be careful to put them on the correct side based on which way the doors open.
 
The outside view of both bulkheads completed.
 

The interior of the carpenters cabin detailed.

 
Finally they were glued into position on the model.  I placed the side with the doors first.  Just use your planking of the lower platform to position it straight and against the stanchion on the fcastle bulkhead.  
Then I added the smaller section along the aft edge of the platform.  This will probably need the outside edge to be sanded because I laser cut them longer than needed.   So adjust the side that butts up against the frames.   But remember, there isnt any planking on the inboard side of the frames so it is expected to show a gap.   Just get it as even and consistent as you can.  
 
The carpenters cabin and boatswains cabin completed.
 
Note how the top of the bulkheads against the deck clamp are flush with the top of the deck clamp.    
 

Next up will be the sail room.  But that needs to be built a different way because of the louvered walls for ventilation. 
 
Chuck
 
 
 

Pegasus emerges

I was fortunate enough to have visited the Museum just before it closed. I felt it was one of the best museums I have ever visited. Had the same thought about the Science Museum in England in the late 70's. At least I am fortunate to be so close to the Annapolis Museum where ship models take center stage thanks to a generous grant from an earlier class.

I was fortunate enough to have visited the Museum just before it closed. I felt it was one of the best museums I have ever visited. Had the same thought about the Science Museum in England in the late 70's. At least I am fortunate to be so close to the Annapolis Museum where ship models take center stage thanks to a generous grant from an earlier class.

I was fortunate enough to have visited the Museum just before it closed. I felt it was one of the best museums I have ever visited. Had the same thought about the Science Museum in England in the late 70's. At least I am fortunate to be so close to the Annapolis Museum where ship models take center stage thanks to a generous grant from an earlier class.

I was fortunate enough to have visited the Museum just before it closed. I felt it was one of the best museums I have ever visited. Had the same thought about the Science Museum in England in the late 70's. At least I am fortunate to be so close to the Annapolis Museum where ship models take center stage thanks to a generous grant from an earlier class.

I was fortunate enough to have visited the Museum just before it closed. I felt it was one of the best museums I have ever visited. Had the same thought about the Science Museum in England in the late 70's. At least I am fortunate to be so close to the Annapolis Museum where ship models take center stage thanks to a generous grant from an earlier class.

I was fortunate enough to have visited the Museum just before it closed. I felt it was one of the best museums I have ever visited. Had the same thought about the Science Museum in England in the late 70's. At least I am fortunate to be so close to the Annapolis Museum where ship models take center stage thanks to a generous grant from an earlier class.

I was fortunate enough to have visited the Museum just before it closed. I felt it was one of the best museums I have ever visited. Had the same thought about the Science Museum in England in the late 70's. At least I am fortunate to be so close to the Annapolis Museum where ship models take center stage thanks to a generous grant from an earlier class.