dvm27

Hey Group,
 
I am back - this build is proving to be a challenge.  I thought about a cross section ("slice" for my French friends) out of frustration - but after researching other build logs and being inspired - I am committed to building this ship fully rigged if its takes me 20 years.  I am in love with her...
 
My current status - I have wasted a pear board 2 inches by 24 learning to use my tools (spindle sander, all of the Jim Byrnes tools, Dewalt scroll saw and my Lie Neilsen chisels  - sharpened this weekend) and here are my results.  I am not completely satisfied and am probably on my way to wasting another board to get this right - (not to mention I will be working with ebony on the black parts above the waterline - so this assembly will be severed.  Yes I am well aware of the challenges of working with Ebony - shes a tough mistress but nothing replicates her appearance).  I do fantasize about building a kit at times - but the satisfaction of executing Boudriots plans flawlessly overwhelms those thoughts.
 
Back to the workshop tomorrow morning....

Seems like Greg the vet is trolling for your business....  

Chris, no matter how good your work looks now you'll want to replace it six months down the road. There's a definite learning curve here but you've made a good start. I find that what helps me a lot is to wear 5x loops when doing any joints. I use them not only because I have extra crappy vision but I find that if I am happy with a joint made under magnification it looks really good without them. 
 
That's an adorable puppy. By the time you've finished your model she'll have tumors, osteoarthritis, glaucoma and bad breath.

Chris, no matter how good your work looks now you'll want to replace it six months down the road. There's a definite learning curve here but you've made a good start. I find that what helps me a lot is to wear 5x loops when doing any joints. I use them not only because I have extra crappy vision but I find that if I am happy with a joint made under magnification it looks really good without them. 
 
That's an adorable puppy. By the time you've finished your model she'll have tumors, osteoarthritis, glaucoma and bad breath.

Chris, “it’s the journey” I keep telling myself when things go wrong on my Pegasus build, which seems to happen far too often.
 
When I talk to some of the greatest modelers and builders on this site I find the answer is always the same, you are trying to recreate the most complex machine that man had ever built at that time, in miniature scale!
 
Learning the tools takes time and repetition but it will come, I couldn’t cut within an inch of a line on my 788 when I started, now I’m running a 64th away as long as I remember to put a new blade in and tighten it right, LOL.
 
Keep your head up brother and keep going.
 
ben
 

Happy Hollidays Gang !  Not much modeling time going on right now - this stinker showed up on Christmas Eve - very sweet 9 week old Boxer pup....

Whoever carved Queen Anne gave her an orb the size of a football! No wonder she doesn't look happy.

Marvellous build, Keith!

Marvellous build, Keith!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 272 – Fore Upper Topsail Yard Rigging  1
 
The last picture in Part 271 picture showed the yard set up for rigging, but first the topgallant sheet blocks had to be fitted to the yard.  The first picture shows a trial fit with one of these before both were blackened.
 

 
This picture also shows the studding sail boom irons on this end of the yard and the two jewel blocks at the end of the boom.  Studding sail blocks that would likely have been "permanently" rigged will be shown on the model, but other studding sail rigging will not be modeled.
 
In the next picture the yard has been returned to the fixture and rigging of the footropes has begun.
 

 
The stirrup eyes and the ends of the footropes are secured with lashings – to jackstay stanchions in the case of stirrups and the inner ends of the footropes, and to the outer boom irons in the case of the footrope outer ends.  The next picture shows a lashing being tied.
 

 
Guterman® quilting cotton is being used for all small lashings – black for permanent connections and ecru for temporary – like reef tackle blocks and inner boom lashings.  To make this type of lashing, I have been double looping the line through the eye and around the boom iron (or stanchion, etc.) A clove hitch is then made around the turns as shown.  Before this is tightened the other end is pulled to shorten the lashing to its final length.  The hitch is then tightened and the lashing touch with diluted glue.
 
There are several blocks lashed to the yard for buntlines, reef tackle, downhauls, etc.  On this yard most are 9" (1/8") single blocks, strapped with a single thimble.  For these small blocks I usually form an eye around a pin, tie it with a double hitch to simulate the seizings, then tie an overhand knot under the block to simulate the strap splice.  Some of these may be seen lying about in the second picture.  For blocks with thimbles at each end, this method is not practical. So something more like the actual strapping is made.  A strap loop is first made as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The rope is wrapped around two pins set at a distance that will allow the two eyes to be seized.  The strap splice is made by passing the rope through itself then gluing.  When the glue dries the block is inserted as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The excess strap rope is cut off and a seizing tied to form the eye at each end of the block.  This method was used for the reef tackle blocks lashed to the outer boom irons.
 
The next picture shows the method used to simulate a shackle between the halyard tie and the iron gin block with the finished shackle shown in the inset.
 

 
The picture shows a test of the method.  The actual connection will need to be made on the model after the tye chain is attached to the yard band and threaded through the mast sheave.  To make this shackle, wire is passed through the chain link then through the eye on the block from both directions with an overhand knot set within the block eye.  The ends are then pulled tight and clipped off as shown in the inset.  The final configuration of the halyard will be shown in the next part.
 
The next picture shows the bench work finished and the yard ready to be hung.
 

 
The topgallant sheet chains may be seen hanging from the center sheet block and from the cheek blocks at the ends.  Securing the two chains inside so the yard may be pulled down by the sheet tackles was discussed in an earlier post.  The picture also shows the chain halyard tye suspended from the sling band.  All the chain ends are threaded with wire to assist in getting then through the various sheaves.  Pushing on a rope has its difficulties but pushing on chain is impossible.
 
In the last picture the yard has been hung and is ready for the next steps – securing the sheets and halyard.
 
 

 
Ed

Hello gentlemen !

Here is the continuation with the interior fittings :






 



 



 





Patrick

So work has been crazy but I finally managed to get some modeling time in on the Barge.
 
The planking part of the build has been completed, and a lot of care had to be taken to get it right. Soaking of the prespiled planks and clamping to the hull and then drying with a hairdryer seemed to work the best for me.
 
i have lightly sanded the planking and will now begin to remove the frame tabs.
 
ben

I have spent a tedious weekend fairing up the lower edge of the upper two strakes of the wales. I had made each plank a bit oversize in width, concerned that the careful fitting of the hooked scarphs could throw off the outer edges slightly, and this proved to be the case. The upper edge is fair because of the batten, but the lower edge wavered a little from plank to plank. A simple matter to draw a line parallel to the top with the compass, and a not so simple matter of then fairing to the line. I had to use a coarse riffler in places, followed by a sanding block cut to the radius of the wale. For some reason, sanding was very slow, perhaps because I was not keen to use a coarser sandpaper and risk marring the lower edge.
 
Oh, well, who is in a hurry?
 
Mark

My brother n law came to stay with his superior camera equipment - so lots of photos which blow up quite well for anyone looking for imperfections. I need sort out a finished model post so I may use some of these. Meanwhile my better half seems to have perked up a little and I may bet back to the workshop soon.

I spent some hours belaying various lines, cleating lines to pins, etc.  It's tough cleating off a line with a couple of tweezers some times, only to find it wasn't a fair lead and has to be redone.

The starboard pin rail holds the topping lift, the throat halliard and the backstay tackle.

The lines are belayed with no empty pins in the rail as they get in the way of tying off the lines.  After belaying one, the next pin goes in for the next line.   Coils will go on later,
Maury

Wonderful work, Karl. I would of thought it would be easier to plank around those gratings then cut the openings later but you've done a perfect job.

...

 

 

 
boat continued
 

 
Milled place under the keel.
 

 

Hey guys, I'm glad to report that I finally finished my Pegasus. Hope you like it 

Very nice job, Toni. I think you'll find the cross-section a pleasant diversion from the fully framed model. Those scupper insets look spot on.

Very nice job, Toni. I think you'll find the cross-section a pleasant diversion from the fully framed model. Those scupper insets look spot on.

Continuation 
 
 


 
 
Pawel 
 

Thanks, Håkan, we moved to a rural area in Montana with limited resources like shops, but beautiful views.
druxey, my wife is not only a retired architect, but also furniture designer (two of her designs are in the Kirkland Museum of decorative arts in Denver). The lightning bolt is a prototype for a candlestick holder she is working on.  We share the shop, split right down the middle. We share most tools, but not my carefully honed chisels....🙂
 
Mark

Dear friends, 
I am pleased you like my work on RK. 
To achieve the satin tan color of the planking I use Tamiya acrylic colours - matt shades of brown, white and black.... strongly thinned by original acrylic thinner and paint retarder (both Tamiya). I apply a very thin layer of color and after drying I overspray the surface using flat clear varnish TS-80 also from Tamiya.
 
Now I am finishing with decks planking:

This topic remains very informative!  I had not delved into the excavation and survey reports on the Colossus before.  They are quite interesting.
 
Of particular note concerning the "stop beam" (note that this is a term the research team coined) is the following analysis from the 2012 Monitoring and Investigation Report available here (page 38): http://www.cismas.org.uk/downloads.php
 
"Just below the gun port a curved timber beam was fastened to the side of the hull, over the inner hull planking (figs 24, 25 & 31). This timber has been assigned the name ‘stop beam’ and its likely function was for the gun carriage to bump against when the gun was pulled up into the firing position – rather than bumping against the inner hull planking. I have been unable to find any concordances for this structural element in any of the literature on ships of the period (or indeed on any sailing vessels). However, a similar wooden beam is known in 19th century terrestrial gun emplacements where it is called a hurter. The stated function of the hurter was to protect the parapet from the wheels of the gun carriage (OED). The stop beam is 1.40m long, 0.16m wide and 0.26m thick at its widest point. The surface of the beam is curved, presumably to facilitate aiming of the gun forward or astern of the beam. The stop beam is fastened to the hull using iron fastenings and trenails. On the underside of this beam (now facing north) were a number of incised lines, one of which consists of three parallel lines, resembling a Roman numeral ‘III’ (fig 32). These may represent builder’s marks – and would have been very difficult to see or access when the ship was upright. Incidentally, this is the third MGD port on the starboard side counting from the stern. The function of this piece of wood was presumably to protect the side of the ship from the impact of the gun carriage when pulled up into the firing position (fig 31). Whether stop beams are a peculiarity of Colossus or merely absent from the literature is not at this stage known – but I suspect the former case is more likely."
 
On a related note, I do not believe that, given the level of attention shown to documenting the survey, they ommitted the waterway, but rather it was not there.  Note the scupper that was located at deck level, which would have been covered were there a waterway (note - down is up n these photographs and the sketch.  That is, the deck is at the top and the upper deck is at the bottom).