BRiddoch

Thanks Chuck.  Under control.

  Bob R.

Chuck, I am ready to install the first strake but have a quick question first.  Does the strake run flush with the frames?  Seems the first 2 frames are a little high.  If I remember from the longboat, the strake should run natural and then the frames can be trimmed later.

   Bob R.

Frames faired, transom and bow filler pieces installed.  Ready to plank.

 Bob R.

    Greetings all.  Framed and faired.  Had to adjust a few frames after seeing the pictures.  Seems the pictures give a better perspective.

   Started cutting out and shaping a new transom piece.

                Bob R.

That's what I figured also Chuck. Thanks.

Bob R.

Dave, I simply run the tape down the center of the false keel giving me 1/32" on each side of the tape.  This will give me a nice even rabbet line.  I do not use a knife...just sandpaper.

           Bob R.

Started framing.  Taking my time here to ensure the frames are perfectly aligned.  These will be the only parts that will be used from the kit.

           Bob R.

Using one of Chucks tips, I purchased some 1/16" striping tape (had to order it) and ran it down the center of the false keel.  This left 1/32" on each side giving me a nice clean rabbet.  From there I glued the keel and stem to the false keel.  I can now dry fit the frames. 

      Bob R.

All, received my saw on Saturday. It took about 10 days. Although the web site says out of stock, email them directly. They have them in shop.

Bob R.

Using my new Hishika Saw, I cut the slots into the false keel.  From there I traced the template for the rabbet. 

           Bob R.

The wood package from Jeff included the following:

      Strips:

3/64" x 1/"4 x 24" (4)  used for the Floor boards and Aft Platform

1/32" x 1/32" x 24" (2)  for oar lock pins

3/64" x 1/8" x 24" (3) for interior planking

3/32" x 3/32" x 24" (2) for oar handles

1/16" x 5/32" x 24" (3) for oars

3/64" x 1/16" x 24" (6) for panels and in between thwarts

1/16" x 3/32" x 24" (1) for seat back, oar locks, and molding between friezes

1/16" x 1/16" x 24" (4) for stanchions

1/16" x 5/16" x 24" (2) for thwarts and platform

3/64" x 3/16" x 24" (30) for planking and risers

3/64" x 5/32" x 24" (4) unknown

      Sheets

1/8" x 3" x 12" (1) for rudder and stem

1/32" x 3" x 4" (1) for splash guards

1/16" x 3" x 12" (1) for seat back, cockpit trunk, lid, caprails, knees, and step.

3/32" x 3" x 4" (1) unknown

             Bob R.

Good crew. Welcome aboard all.

Great! Got me a powder monkey and a bilge rat. Welcome guys.

Started by cutting out a new slotted false keel (not slotted yet), keel and stem.  Made a little building board to keep it all straight.

       Bob R.

     Greetings all.  After finishing a few kits it is time to venture into scratch building.  Well, maybe a major kit bash anyway.  I have decided to tackle Chucks English Pinnace using a Swiss Pear lumbering set I was lucky enough to get from Jeff at Hobby Mill before he retired. 

      I will be replacing all the wood in the kit with the exception of the frames.

                      Bob R.

Thanks Carl.  Hope to see an update on yours soon.

     Bob R.

Thanks again guys. Next up is a bashed pinnace using cherry wood.

Bob R.

Mind if I follow along? This is on my "to do" list.

Bob R.

Thanks guys.  I am very happy with the end results. 

       Bob R.

A few more.  Album will be posted into "Completed" section.

     Bob R.

All,

    Last night I installed the ships flag completing Higaki Kaisen. 

I present to you...Hakodate(Ha-Ko-Dah-Tay) Maru.

       Bob R.

Thanks Michael. It has it's difficult parts. For the most part it was fairly straightforward as long as you can decipher the instructions which are completely in Japanese.

Bob R.

Thanks George.

Bob R.

Greetings all.  I am basically completed with the Higaki Kaisen with the exception of the flag.  I will also be adding some additional details such as cargo and more rope coils.

           Bob R.

Thanks guys. Should be completed by the weekend.

Bob R.