wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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Very nice effect of the pigment. Should have done this on my botter sails too, they were kind of rather delicate. If you spray acrylics in thin layers on paper, so that the paint dries immediately, there is little risk to disturb the paper. I have done this on several occasions.- 69 replies
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- Galway hooker
- fishing
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No Ratlines on Revenue Cutter Dallas?
wefalck replied to RichardG's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
On the large Arab-lateen rigged boats of the Arab-seas there were no shrouds, only the halliard for the antenna. Arab and Indian seamen would 'shinny' (as John expressed himself) up the antenna to put in reefs. The rule was 'One hand for me - one hand for thee (the shipowner)' ... Dana's book is always a good non-fictional read of sailing-ship practice around the middle of the 19th century and the hard-ship the men had to endure. -
Me also missed this interesting project so far. Building clinker boats has always fascinated me. To date, I have only one small-scale specimen (downscaled from the paper model in Eric McKee's 1979 brochure on clinker planking) to my record. Will be watching this now with interest.
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Interesting project ... Normally, stainless is softer than other types of steel used for scews, as the alloying elements interfere with the hardening process.
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I have been working with brown Canson-paper, which highly calandered, but only lightly bonded paper of 0.13 mm (=0.01") thickness. I cannot adjust the speed, only pulse length and energy, and there is no vector-cutting option. There is some charring, but it comes off quite well. Here is an example of what I am getting: The anchors are 11 mm (= 7/16") long. I manage to cut down to about 2/100" widths, sometimes less, depends on the orientation of the part with respect to the axes of the machine. Assembled anchors: I have been looking for some material that is bonded, but still can be easily laser-cut, hence my interest in the PolyBak. I normally soak the Canson-paper in shellac after cutting.
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Thanks. I figured indeed from the Richwood Web-site that different qualities (densities) come in different colours and different thicknesses. What laser power did you use ? I found that most bonded materials don't seem to cut very well with my little 6W laster, presumably because the resin etc. needs more energy to evaporate/char. The problem is to find an equivalent brand over here in Europe, though obviously there are similar applications, such as the backing of laminated woods.
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Where these parts actually laser-cut /-engraved ? What PolyBak(?) thickness did you use and what laser power ?
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No Ratlines on Revenue Cutter Dallas?
wefalck replied to RichardG's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Agreement or not, the fact is that some fairly big vessels did not have ratlines. On this kind of vessels sails and yards set flying were operated from the deck. -
I really would like to know what it actually is, so that one can look for alternative brands ...
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Nice, clean work ! I never seen belaying pins on booms, I think, only cleats. Interesting. What goes onto the pins, the clew outhauls or the flag halliards ?
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I don't think that boiler feed-water from the condensers would be be fit for drinking considering even that seamen at that time were less picky then we are today. To my knowledge distillation apparatus were installed on such ships from around the 1860s on. I seem to remember that there is a drawing of such apparatus in the Danish Naval Yard archives, but I could not find it in my files right now. How did you make the pump, looks quite tiny.
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I understand that point. On the other hand, the dedicated fora, such as MSW, open up the way to obtain informations and directions that in those dark pre-Internet ages would have not be so easy to come by. With this one can improve on kits, if necessary. This should give much more satisfaction at the end. There are many examples here on MSW, where people made magnificent and historically quite correct models out of the kit material. Why don't you rephrase your question and re-post it to attract the attention of people who have more specific knowledge of HMS BOUNTY ? You could ask in the title of the post something like "How were the yards of HMS BOUNTY constructed ?". The answer may well be that they were hexagonal in the middle ...
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I think what we meant, was whether you checked against historical sources or reference books based on historical sources. Interpretations of kit-makers are often not very reliable and dictated by kit-production convenience.
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Where did you double-check ? And what kind of ship are you working on ?
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I said this before, but it may help sorting out one's mind: there are basically two types of models or two types of intentions. One type is the artesanal type, where you try to show of your skills in the various trades, woodworking and/or metalworking, and this case (your) aethetics are the guiding principle. The other type is a model that tries to represent the ship as it actually might have looked like. The latter most likely does not show any untreated wood visible and historical correctness (as fas as we can know) would be important. In the former type historical correctness in detail, but not appearance could also be considered important. These, of course, are extremes, and there may be transitions between the types.
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A systematic approach always helps !
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Scottish Maid (Artesania kit) - where to anchor etc braces
wefalck replied to gthursby's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I think the model in the link above is one I seem to remember, not the 'seaman's' style one. -
Just running a couple of ropes across a boat sitting upright on chocks may not be sufficient to keep the boat from rocking. Today, so-called gripes are used, these are hooks that go over the wales and have an eye at the end. A rope is reefed in several turns through this eye and an eye-bolt or something suitable on the deck or the chocks. This rope then is fastened on itself after hauling it taut. Instead of hook, this rope could also be fastened to a suitable structural member inside the boat. The idea is to secure the boat at four points, rather than just pulling it down onto the chocks. Small boats that are relatively easily man-handled may be also better stored upside-down to keep them dry and to prevent overcoming water to collect in them in making them top-heavy.
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It's coming on nicely. Somehow, the boat looks, as if mixes 19th and 18th century features, the bow looks still quite 18th century in shape.
- 69 replies
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- 2
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- Galway hooker
- fishing
- (and 2 more)
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Good job on something, that can go easily wrong in different ! Yes, Christmas will be rather different this year, with no family gatherings in many parts of the world - even when legally possible, one should refrain anyway, as the whole society will pay for it in the end. We normally travel to Germany to spend Christmas with relatives, including my 95 year old mother - we wouldn't even get there, let alone be allowed to visit her ... very sad.
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Red ochre, iron-oxyhydroxide (FeOOH ... I am a geochemist ) is rather stable in most environments. Its the same mineral the colours red sandstones and also a component of most iron-ores. So it is not terribly surprising that it may outlast wood. Depending on the actual composition of the mineral and heating processes during the pigment production, it's colour can vary from a pale orange to deep red to a reddish violett. Assuming that no a very high-quality pigment was used in 'barn-paints' a brownish red is probably the most likely colour.
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Scottish Maid (Artesania kit) - where to anchor etc braces
wefalck replied to gthursby's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The small reproductions of MacGregor's plans in his book(s) are probably of limited use. I gather the full-size plans would be much more useful, as SCOTTISH MAID was one of those ships he researched more intensively. If I am not mistaken, Petersson focuses on the 18th century and draws mainly on Swedish sources, while SCOTTISH MAID is mid-19th century and from a very innovative yard at the time.
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