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Everything posted by wefalck
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I think there are two questions mingled together: 1) how was it done on the prototype and 2) how to represent this on the model. First one has to work out for the given period and the given type of ship and for the location of the block, how it would have been attached and whether the strop might have been served. Some blocks have a strop with an eye and a hook, other blocks may have tail, etc. How to represent this, depends on the scale, as was already said. However, blocks are (almost) never attached with knots. Usually splices are used. Splices can be mocked even at very small scales by pulling the thread twice through itself and then stabilising it with a drop of varnish (preferable over PVA or CA cement, as it can be dissolved with the appropriate solvent).
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Indeed, getting the hawse-pipes coming out at the right place is a challenge - guess how I know, what you are talking about 😏
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Engine-Room Telegraphs On the ‘official’ lithograph of SMS WESPE from the early 1880s an unsual form of engine-room telegraph was drawn. It has a horizontal dial. In the earliest known photography of the ship during fitting-out, the telegraphs had not yet been installed. A short while ago I discovered during a visit to Oslo in the Norsk Maritimt Museum a very similar telegraph on display. Unfortunately, the legend is not readable on my image. I seem to remember that the inventor or patentee was named. A search on the Internet and in my library did not produce anything, so I would be grateful, if anyone has an idea, who the inventor or patentee might have been. Horizontal engine-room telegraph in the Norsk Maritimt Museum, Oslo The telegraph was redrawn from the lithography in order to serve as a working drawing with measures to guide the lathe operation. The original lithography and working drawing The whole telegraph seems to have been made from brass and accordingly the model was turned from brass. The indicator arm and follower were made from flattened brass wire and the ‘wooden’ handle built up from PVA glue. The two engine-room telegraphs at their place SMS WESPE had two telegraphs, one for the starbord and port engine each, of this early twin-screw naval vessel. To be continued soon(?) ...
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Only, if coal tar was used, say post 1840s.
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Wood normaly is preserved by impregnating it with liquid tar (brownish) or oil, or is painted. This applies also to dead-eyes, blocks, etc. I am not aware of a collective term for ‚blocks without sheaves‘
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Standing rigging and served rope.
wefalck replied to captain_hook's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
BTW, Lever is an early 19th and Biddlecombe a mid 19th century textbook ... -
Luckily CUTTY SARK is still with us (well, sort of) and looking for photographs that show her channels should give you ideas, how the rigging was done on the real thing. You then can figure out, how to use the parts you have to resemble this arrangement - or to make your own parts to suit. I don't know, where historic research stand now after her rebuilding following the fire, but the standard modelling guide for her pre-fire appearance probably still is LONGRIDGE, C.N. (1933): The Cutty Sark.- 440 p., Kings Langley/ Herts. (reprint 1975, Model and Allied Publications). Apart from being specific on her, the book also describes in detail many modelling techniques that are still applicable today.
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👍 Nice rendering of these quite colourful boats ! The wellknown British marine artist E.W. Cooke spent considerable time in Venice and depicted these boats on various occassions: https://www.google.de/search?q=e+w+cooke+paintings+venice&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwi09Kz-rvvkAhVK0YUKHZrNAZsQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=e+w+cooke+paintings+venice&gs_l=img.3...32078.34487..34676...0.0..0.75.481.7......0....1..gws-wiz-img.Zy-i3WEnjEk&ei=em-TXbTPL8qilwSam4fYCQ&bih=604&biw=1173&safe=off
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Pin vice recommendations?
wefalck replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
When it is about freehand-drilling this is a largely academic discussion. Even the worst pin-vice is much better than the error introduced by your shaking and wobbly hand. What you call 'pin-chuck' also runs by the name of 'insert drill-chuck' and as I said above, there are pretty bad ones around as well, that are not fit for the purpose, namely to be used in stationary drilling machines, when you want to use drills smaller than the range of chuck on the machine. A good quality drill chuck has always three jaws, while cheap chucks, collets and most pin-vices are slotted cross-wise, giving them four jaws. On pin-vices concentricity is largely inconsequential, as they are hand-held. -
Excellent ! Did you paint the decorations in situ ? Personally, I would find this quite difficult on the convex hull. I probably would do the painting on decal paper and then transfer it to the model.
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Don't know what your workshop's machining capabilities are, but you may be able to disassemble the portholes and work them over - just as in real life such castings would have been machined. Assuming, of course, they were brass.
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Pin vice recommendations?
wefalck replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Prompted by the discussion here, I did something that I had in mind to do for already a while: I created a page on my Web-site for hand-held work-holding tools from my tool collection. For this I took a couple of pictures: 1 - Archimedes drill for watchmakers. 2 - Slender modern pin-vice with hollow fluted brass body. 3 - Slender antique pin-vice with hollow fluted brass body. 4 - Shop-made pin-vice with walnut body and head made from an insert drill-chuck; these drill-chucks are unfit for their intended purpose as they usually do not run true. 5 - Eclipse toolmaker's pin-vice with knurled steel body; these come in different sizes. 6 - French-style pin-vice; these are closed with the sliding ring and have usually brass inserts in the two jaws that can be adapted to special needs; 7 - Dito, here the jaws are replaced in hard-wood for delicate parts. 8 - Antique laboratory pin-vice with fluted wooden handle. 9 - Modern pin-vice with fluted wooden handle; these come in different sizes and capacities. 10 - Antique toolmaker's pin-vice for very delicate work in confined spaces. 1 - Toolmaker's hand-held vice that is closed with a sliding ring. 2 - Hand-vice with parallel serrated jaws moved by a screw. 3 - Antique american style hand-vice; the jaws are closed by screwing in the conical body; the handle and body have been replaced. 4 - Hand-held collet-holder; this uses horological lathe collets; the advantage is that work can be transferred between the holder and the lathe when it has the nominal collet diameter. 5 - Castrovejo surgical non-locking needle-holder; they come in various sizes, this one is for eye-surgery. 6 - Antique surgical locking needle-holder; these come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. -
I couldn't agree more with your comments on competitions - it would be quite unlikely that a judge has the same level of knowledge that I would build up on a subject. They could only judge the artisanal execution and then the judges may not understand what I tried to achieve - there seem to be also certain 'styles' of building en vogue at any one time and, if I don't follow the fashion, I am out. So why bother ... we do this for fun (and also to develop knowledge and skills, of course).
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Pin vice recommendations?
wefalck replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Have one like this as well and it is very good, but I wish I bought the type with spring-return, so that it can be used with one hand only. -
Pin vice recommendations?
wefalck replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
General Tools 92 Swivel Head doesn't mean anything to us over here - what about a picture ? -
Pin vice recommendations?
wefalck replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The Starret ones are toolmaker pin-vices, meant to hold reamers or files and such things. Eclipse for instance would be European product of comparable quality. The pin-vices or needle-holders I showed originate in biology and horology respectively, I believe. I like the slender brass ones for working in tight spaces, such as rigging. You are less likely to get hooked with the tightening screw. Also, the pencil-size diameter makes for comfortable handling. For bigger jobs I also have toolmaker-style ones. -
Duplicates for Sherline Lathe
wefalck replied to John Rose's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I beiieve artisanal pen-makers use such duplicators to produce small series of identical pens. I don't know the article referred to, but there used to be a thread-'chasing' system using followers for the Unimat lathes that probably could be converted into a duplicator. From http://www.lathes.co.uk/unimat/page2.html
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