wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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Not sure, whether I had posted this already, but some years ago I made myself a similar table on MS Excel. The formula to calculate the approximate diameter D in Millimetres from the tex-number I used is: D = =SQRT(tex/(Y*1000*100*PI))*10*Z where Y = density (g/cm^3) of the Material (for Polyester around 1.5 g/cm^3) Z = number of threads (ply) in the yarn The other numbers are derived from the definition for tex, wich is the weight of a defined unit of length of the yarn. The rest of the formula is the inverse formula to calculate the area of the cross-section from the diameter of a circle. Thus a two-ply Mara 220 of 13 tex does have indeed a diameter of SQRT(13 / (1.5*1000*100*3.1415))*10*2 mm = 0.105 mm -
That's for a change a real diorama in the true sense of the word and not just a scenic display on a base-board ! The close-up photographs let you forget how small it is in reality - one only realises it on the last picture. The lighting inside and outside looks very convincing.
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I don't know, whether the customs service at that time was associated with the navy, but it may be worthwhile to have word with the Brazilian Naval Museum in Rio de Janeiro: https://www.marinha.mil.br/dphdm/espaco-cultural-da-marinha I don't know how good the museum is, it seems to be relatively new, at least it did not seem to exist in the early 2000s, when I had been a couple of times down there.
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Indeed, rubbing some graphite (soft pencil) over black give iron-work a sort of metallic feeling without looking too metallic. You could also rub some white and/or grey pastel onto the bottom of the hearth to simulate ash from wood/charcoal ...
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- heller
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As you have the mill, you fabricate an adapter for a hand-held drill that allows you to rise and lower it like on a drill press - the x-y-table than provides for co-ordinate drilling capability. Wasn't it Keith Aug on this forum, who showed some years ago such a gadget ? The hand-wheel on the y-column is not very conveniently located for drilling operations, put personally I like the screw-feed for drilling tiny, sub-millimetre, holes, as it results in less drill breakage.
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Joe Martin's book indeed is quite good, but is more or less written as a manual for Sherline machines (both lathes and milling machines). It should be easy to get in North America. In the UK there is a long tradition in writing such books, going back to the early 20th century. I found the older ones particularly useful, as they typically refer to simple techniques. It is difficult to name titles, but for instance this specialised on-line bookseller has a good selection in his catalogue: https://www.camdenmin.co.uk/collections/engineering-practice-skills. One may be able to get one or the other title in North America. As 'Clueless' was specifically referring to making masts and spars, there is a problem with many small metal lathes in the sense that their width between centres may be too small to handle such long parts. I gather one cannot have it all. For this kind of work perhaps the small Proxxon wood-lathe is a better and cheaper option (with the limitations of a wood-lathe, of course): https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27020.php They offer also an extension bed that doubles the capacity to 500 mm between centres.
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... one can argue about that.
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An old rule is to buy a lathe with double the capacity (length between centres, swing) you think you'll need The main difference between a wood lathe and and a metal lathe is that on the latter the tool-bit is controlled by a cross-slide, while on the former it is guided by hand only. This means that only with a metal lathe you can produce objects with a well-defined geometry and dimension (unless you are really proficient in using hand-turning tools). Metal lathes also offer better and more varied options for holding parts to be machined. Apart from the common three- and four-jaw chucks, most small lathes also offer the option of using so-called collets, which are a more precise and safer option for small parts. Before buying any lathe, it would be probably advisable to read through a textbook on machining for modellers.
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Nice metal work as always. Perhaps it is a question of perspective, but shouldn't the antenna sit in height more or less between the two rings to let the beam pass unobstructed ?
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I think your strategy for cleaning up the coppering and the interpretation of what happens during the burnishing with the steel-wool is correct. I observed the same.
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Yes, keep your models in a proper atmosphere If there are dramatic changes in temperature and humidity, over time no 'sealing' will help, it will just crack. To my knowledge cabinetmakers did not varnish non-visible, massive parts. I case of panelling, the situation is different, as thin panels may warp, when only one side is treated - a mistake painters in the olds days sometimes made, when they painted on wood, but did not treat the back. Paint will only flake, if not properly keyed into the wood, or when indeed the wood 'works' too much, but so would varnish.
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In general, there is no 'finish' needed on wood surfaces that will not be visible once the model is completed. Preserve the wood from what ? It will be inside the model anyway. Of course, if the framing, the ceiling or whatever will be visible, then on an 'artesanal' style model (i.e. not a 'realistic' rendering), you would apply varnish of some kind.
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As the term implies, a 'finish' does not go onto parts (or rather their respective surface) onto which other parts will be attached, i.e. glued. Glues key better into the bare wood than onto varnished surfaces. Unless something is visible, one does not normally apply any 'finish'. Otherwise, there no general rules, it depends on the individual situation and convenience. Small parts may need to be painted/varnished before they are put into place because it is easier then and one doesn't smear the paint/varnish around and on other parts.
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I would dare say that it also depends on how rounded the boat ends are. Don't have access to it at the moment, but didn't Eric McKee say something about this in: MCKEE, E. (1980): Clenched Lap or Clinker.- 30 p., Greenwich (National Maritime Museum).
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Did they really had 'inlaid' (as it was called) linoleum on Russian ships at that time, rather than the sober 'battleship' linoleum (which was also thicker as the domestic one), that usually comes in a dark reddish brown ?
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Thanks, Gentlemen ! Tony, it is actually surprisingly easy and fast: you move the rotating silicon bit until it touches the surface to be polished and make one pass; then you advance the bit by 0.1 mm and make another pass. This is usually sufficient. Like for any other such grinding operation, it is important to keep the part moving, otherwise you will get circular scratches in the surface. Here is a similar operation, when I polished the the sloping faces of a Plexiglas block that forms the core of a skylight: Plexiglas is a plastic that polishes very well to a glass-like surface.
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Thanks to all for the continued moral support ! **************************************** Porthole Glazing Following the discussion on ways to make the porthole glazing further up, I looked over all available photographs and came to the conclusion that one does not actually seem to see the bronze frame from the outside. On the other hand, most photographs or their scans do not have sufficient resolution to really see such detail. In order to make my life simpler, I decided to go for solid Plexiglas plugs. I did have 1 mm Plexiglas rod in stock and short sections were cut from this to make 2 mm long plugs. The plugs have to be a bit longer than their diameter, so that they can be inserted straight. The front face was turned flat on the lathe and the back-end was given a bit of a chamfer for easy entry into the pre-drilled holes after which it was painted black using a black permanent marker pen. The pieces were then transferred to the micro-mill for polishing the front face with a silicon rubber polishing bit. In order ensure that the porthole plugs are set at equal depth, a little ‘tool’ was made, a punch with a recess of 0.3 mm depth around the rim. Collection of Plexiglas plugs ready for insertion Glazed portholes Glazed portholes To be continued ....
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I actually thought that our discussion ran around hardening the surface. However, what you are effectively showing here is the creation of balsa reinforced epoxy resin, i.e. a composite material. I am not surprised that the epoxied version is much stiffer.
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Thanks for your appreciation ☺️ It may be worthwhile to paint the outside of the 'thin wooden edge' in the colour of the deck/waterway to simulate the angle iron that almost certainly would have run around the wooden deck - otherwise it would be rather exposed to splintering. The bollards would have been cast in one piece probably. It seems that the cast iron base often was put onto a wooden base and the whole assembly then was screwed down onto the deck. The screws probably would have gone through some structural element or at least there would have been a reinforcing plate on the underside of the deck. I have seen both variants, that bollards were screwed onto the steel waterways or onto the wooden deck (still having the wooden base-plate). If the bollards sat inside a bulwark and the waterways were cemented to form a gutter, the bollards most likely sat on the wooden deck, as the strain on the bollards would have cracked the cement, leading to water penetration and corrosion.
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As this is probably going to be a decorative model, you are surely on the right track! It's only good to be conscientious of the artistic licenses one takes.
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Brass piano hinges
wefalck replied to Chariots of Fire's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Looking at this, I was wondering, if one could make sort of 'snap-on' semi-functional ones, by designing one half with shallow dimples and the other with cone-shape protrusions - the two halves then could be fit together cautiously starting from one end - very much like a zipper ... -
Why masts are square at the top?
wefalck replied to Tommy Vercetti's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Sorry, missed that 🤭 -
It seems one reason that North American bison was eradicated was, that they were shot by the thousands and just the tongue cut out and the rest of the carcasse left rotting and to the wolfes ...
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