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wefalck

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Everything posted by wefalck

  1. wefalck
    What country, what period, what type of ship ?
  2. wefalck
    Obviously, whoever built the model spent quite a bit of effort on it. However, there are couple of features that are strange: - these side-gallerie I have never seen on such a small ship like a staten-jacht - the row of fire-buckets get in the way of the helm that normally ran in a kind of double floor underneath the cabin - the figure-head sits on the stem and not in front / on top of the galion (it may been displaced actually, when damaged) - the anchor arms are not right, the flat should be vertical, not horizontal
  3. wefalck
    I still think that a kind of travelling steady would be better, that supports the rope being served left and right of the point being served, without pulling on the rope overall. This could travel along a bar underneath the rope being served to support its weight. I don't have a need for served rope at the moment, but have already collated most of the material I will need for the construction of a serving machine. I have a design along the ideas outlined above in mind ...
  4. wefalck
    He really did it - at not just a finger-hole, as most of us would have done ...
  5. wefalck
    That's why I at least understood, how the machine works ...
  6. wefalck
    How on earth could I have missed out on this superb project and all the tool-making so far ... ? And not a flick of sawdust anywere, as clean as an operating theatre 😮 Keep it coming !
  7. wefalck
    Check out Johann's LA CREOLE building log: he has there a little device to suspend the bobbin with the serving thread from the rope that is being served. This avoids pulling the rope out of shape and advances by itself ...
  8. wefalck
    I don't know anything about these machines, but the problem is how to hold tight a section of rope, where the serving has been completed. One way is to wind it up onto a spool or bobbin. The same of course applies for the yet unserved part. An alternative would be to wedge the served and unserved part with some sort of collet or similar, but this could damage the serving and squash the the rope. I don't know, of course, how long your masts will be, but certainly the best option would be to stretch out the rope over the full required length, if at all possible. A completely different design would be probably more appropriate for an 'endless' serving machine: the rope should be stretched between two spools, keeping enough pull on it and the bobbin with the serving rope would rotate around the rope to be served. This is the principle used in full-size practice. One would need to advance the rope to be served between the two spools just by the thickness of the serving rope for each turn the bobbin makes. This can be effected by sets of change gears that connect the two spools with the part that spins the bobbin around the rope. Or, today this could be done CNC-fashion with three stepper motors.
  9. wefalck
    Yes, MAY, E.W. (1999): The Boats of Men-of-War.- 128 p., London (Chatham Publishing). is a useful reference book to have ...
  10. wefalck
    Looks like a 1st yacht out-fitting job !
  11. wefalck
    This guys must have devised another way of lifting up the floor boards then. They fit indeed very snuggly. From the few sailing trips I did with friends around the Mediterranean and the Carribean (I am only holding an inland waterways certificate), I remember that filled the bilge with conserves and bottles (not only water ) and that boards usually had finger hole.
  12. wefalck
    Looking very nice indeed. Actually, a few years ago I bought a 'deep-buttoned' chair for my desk and found that the deep-buttoning on the seat is not so comfortable - but looking nice definetely.
  13. wefalck
    I don't want to belittle your work, but I quite admire that of your wife - perhaps technically not too challenging, but certainly a challenge to keep track of the movements of the bobbins ... France is slow in rolling out the jabs, at least for the Pfizer-BioTech or Moderna ones, which seem to be more effective. Will have to wait until early summer probably.
  14. wefalck
    Some (non-model) companies also sell acrylic emulsions without pigment as primers, but I have not been happy with the resulting surface. Shellac would work, but one may still see streaks from brushing it on - due to the short drying time, spraying may be difficut and it requires good ventilation, as pure alcohol is used as medium.
  15. wefalck
    I find that small parts that are not fingered don't actually need to be primed, that is, when you apply the paint with an airbrush. Just keep coats sparse.
  16. wefalck
    The advantage of acrylics for washes is that one can work very fast. They only takes minutes to dry and one can apply quickly the next round. The following layer does also not redissolve the previous layers, as could/woulld happen for enamels or oils.
  17. wefalck
    Did you paint on the raw wood, using the acrylics as a kind of stain ? I have not actually done it like this myself, but if you prime the wood with a sanding filler, sand it nicely and then apply washes of acrylics, you might avoid the problem with uneven penetration due to glue stains. I have done it on resin models and one can achieve a nice worn looks.
  18. wefalck
    Looking very neat ! How do you do the soldering ?
  19. wefalck
    These guys had to be fast not only to evade government steamers, but also, in the absence of refrigerated holds, to get the catch quickly to the Scottish fish-lasses for gutting, salting and barreling. A considerable proportion of the annual production was exported to the catholic countries of Portugal and Spain, who could not fulfil their own demand of fish for the many fasting-days in their calendar.
  20. wefalck
    It all depends also on the size of the spars. Some may be just too short and thin for planing. The shape can be easily checked with calipers and corrected by running the sanding-block down the long axis of the ellipse. For small spars a shooting board and a sanding-block might be a good combination. Or holding the dowel in a pin-vice/drill chuck and then working with sanding-block on a wood board. For the finishing touch it is a good idea to have the piece rotating. I tend to use steel-wool for this, rather than sanding-paper.
  21. wefalck
    Using a power-tool along a mast or spar to be shaped would only work, if you were using it as what is called a 'tool-post grinder', i.e. mounted to the cross-slide of a lathe. Otherwise, it would be very difficult to run the power-tool steadily enough along the piece of wood in your big power-drill. Using a sanding-block or strips of sanding-paper run a long the wood as sort of steadying effect and you bring linear surface into contact with the wood, rather than a round one. Old machinisists handbooks from the 19th century are source of useful ideas for us hobbyists. At that time lathes usually did not come with all those fancy attachments that are seen today as needed to do quality work. Machinists had to improvise. If you don't have a tailstock for your arrangement, but need to steady the far end of a long work-piece, you can fashion what would be called a 'fixed-steady' from a block of wood clamped to the work-table (as would need to be your drill in a horizontal position). To the front of this block you glue/staple a piece of thick cardboard into which you have punched a hole of the diameter of the dowel you start to work with. This will not last for ever and you may need to replace the cardboard from time to time. You could also use a piece of wood instead. Once you are done, you just cut off the thick part that is left on your mast/spar.
  22. wefalck
    I have seen lace-making at various places around Europe (Brugge, Le Puy, ...) and it is fascinating to see professionals at work (the German term for it is almost onomatopoeic: klöppeln, which kind of imitates the sound the bobbins make, when thrown over each other). Industrial and mechanised lace-making, particularly in Nottingham, killed much of this artisanal industry around Europe - and of course a change in fashion. I noticed that the net on the boat was actually spliced and not knotted. Now I understand, why you (as a collective term ) went down the lace-making route. Looking forward to your further explanantions. On naval ships they had netting along their open rails, e.g. on bridges, and I always wondered how one could replicate this at small scale. Here the nets are knotted like fishing nets actually and the meshes are typically elongated hexagons. Doing it by a process akin to lace-making might be a solution.
  23. wefalck
    The old machinists' rule something should not stick out of a chuck more than 3 to 4 times the diameter. With stiff material, such as certain steel you may be able to go safely to 5 or 6 times the diameter. This applies to wood as well, but it also depends on the absolute diameter. The reason is the run out that can dramatically and suddenly increase when you are working on a part, due to the sideway pressure you are applying. The consequence is, that you have to support longer parts at the other end - in a so-called tailstock or a so-called fixed steady. I would imagine that it would unnecessarily difficult to device a tailstock or steady for the hand-held drill mounted in the drill-stand. If you want to go that route, it is much easier to take a long board, figure out a sort of clamping fixture for the drill and a steady or tailstock at the other end. Much more stable, than the drill-press. There are examples here on the forum and elsewhere on the Internet. A classical example, that has been up on the Net for 20 years is this: http://www.lathes.co.uk/fonly/ (Government Health Warning: Don't look at the other pages of this Web-site, they make you drool ...)
  24. wefalck
    You are welcome, Gbmodeller. I used to live just around the corner from them for some years and collected quite a bit of literature on them.
  25. wefalck
    Yes, it's a Zuiderzee-botter from Marken: It is also on my own Web-site: http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/models/botter/botter.html

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