jud

Most likely HongKong area with those mountains.

Thank you all for visiting and your like votes.  To all here on MSW, Gwen and I wish you all a very good holiday and a prosperous 2015 in good health. 
 
Hello Omega, thank you for your kind words my friend.  My dinghy at 7 cm is a giant compared to your 2 cm one.  You did great!  And no, 'm not going to top that - - - yet 
 
Hoi Remco, yes, I agree!  V.2.0 is an improvement but still needs a lot more work before I'm REALLY happy.
 
Hi Nils, and thank you for your compliment.  Yeah, I figured too, why not add a few words how I managed to build this tiny and fragile dinghy, just in case some other crazy guy or gall wants to give it a try, besides Omega that is     
 
Hoi Sjors, keep dreaming my friend    Two is enough.  I went out to prove something to myself and lucked out, twice actually.
 
Hoi Carl, thank you too for your kind words and no, I won't hide it.  She'll be hanging on the sling of the lifting boom.  This way I can do a show and tell by actually putting it away and close the hatches.  I can do the same with the anchor, the emergency telephone, deck launch torpedoes and AA guns.  Oh yes, when you blow on the propellors they rotate!.  Oh almost forgot, the trim-planes can be stowed and the rudder and dive planes work.
 
Hell Vivian, cute????  But of course - - - coming from a lady it has to be cute, I like that and thank you for your kind word.
 
Hello George,  but I have a second one - version 1.0.  That one will be parked on the display board with spare mines, torpedoes, an anchor, cases of ammo and Heineken beer 
 
Cheers to all,

From post #1 -
 
Rules are simple:
 
1) Someone posts a picture of a ship, someone guesses the name of the ship. Whoever gets it right, posts the next picture. Make sure the name isn't showing.
 
2)  It is to the poster to follow the thread as long as its ship was not found, and to be the judge of the proposed solutions. So, without the consent of the poster, the next one is not to post a new ship.
 
3) If the ship's name isn't guessed in a fortnight, the same player will show a picture with the ship's name and post a new "name the Ship picture.
 
4)  If the player whose turn it is has not replied in a fortnight, then the previous winner gets to post again.
 

Hi,  wine corks make excellent handles for files.  I drill them and glue in  bit of brass tube that will catch the rat tail of a file.  You can sand them down for finer handles if needed.

Were I designing the instillation of the chain pumps, 'not really pumps at all, just water lifting devices using dippers to carry the water'. I would place a pump head or multiple pump heads on each deck that I wanted bilge water to discharge, each separate pump independently running to the bilge with no breaks or openings. On a man of war, seldom would there be a shortage of men to power the pumps and provide enough men for rotation on those pumps. Want water on one deck with a pump head, man that pump, have a lot of water to move, then man all the pump heads regardless of deck and open the scuppers. Not having any knowledge of how it was set up, the object still would be to lift water from one place to another using simple and easily repairable methods. Wonder if any method so far noted are 100% accurate.
jud

Ahoy Mates
 
I have been using a Flexcut Slipstrop for a few years now with excellent results. It cost under 16 bucks. I highly recommend them for the hobbyist. 
 
I did a post on it here a while back  
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/346-flexcut-slipstrop-review/?p=3290
 
It has more then paid for itself. I just recently tossed the blade I was using when I posted the review 20 months ago.
 
I have found that new Xacto blades are only half as sharp as you can actually make them. All of my tools are now insanely sharp. I can cut curly Q's that are almost transparent with a 10 dollar Home Depot brand mini plane. It will not hold that edge but now holds one plenty sharp enough for my needs.
 
There is a small learning curve. Xacto blades are easy. My carving knifes took me some time. The plane took me a while and i am still learning how to sharpen some of my other tools. There is a flat leather surface not shown in the picture that I use most of the time. I also found adding  baby oil to the mix and creating a slurry made it easier for me to get super fine edges. The included compound was a little dry. 
 
Here is a link if your interested 
 
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/143657/Flexcut-Slipstrop-Sharpening-Kit.aspx
 
if your still putting the pink stuff in front of the pointy thing; don't get one of these. You'll only be able to count to 9 

You're in luck. Olof Eriksen has built a Cutty Sark as well as Victory and Constitution...all in steel. Of course he has the advantage of being a master machinist and owns a large industrial manufacturing company where he also built his models in his spare time (or on the clock since it's his company). Here's a link to some photos of one of his models http://uniquesystems.com/u-s-s-constitution/. Do consider that a fully rigged (steel rigging of course) steel model of Constitution weighs 1300 pounds and requires a case 15' x 8' x 10'. This could upset some spouses. His Victory Model is featured in a two part Scale Ship Modeler Magazine (1990) article and this stainless steel model is an exact duplicate of Longridge's model in London, right down to the anchor stock planking of the hull. I don't know where his Cutty Sark resides. I believe Olof is or was a member of the New Jersey ship model group so maybe Chuck knows.

No 4. made today, and it is final solution



Jus have no nerve to experiment more.

If I have, I could make "Star Of India" until the end of my lifetime

Ken,
 
I'm not sure that's quite true, as the artists who painted these battle and other scenes from the eighteenth/nineteenth centuries, were masters of their art. Don't forget that 'back in the day', the RN and the British population were quite used to such feats by their navy quite frequently and were expecting accuracy in reporting of events, be it in the newspapers or on canvas. They were no less discerning than people are today.
 
So, far from navies not being 'too concerned about the small details of their ships', I would suggest the opposite was the case. Individual naval officers who served on the ships depicted certainly were and could be relied upon to ensure the technicalities were correct, particularly if the painting in question had been commissioned by them from the artist. This was quite common after a decisive action which the officer wanted portrayed on canvas for posterity.
 
I'm not sure many artists worked from the beach, they wouldn't have seen much in any case, but from their studios. They would most likely have been aided by other drawings, paintings and other information, backed up by the input of the naval officers. Some of the artists had also been seamen themselves, so would have instinctively known many aspects of what they were painting.

Hello Jud, thanks for visiting and your question.  This same question was asked last March 20, 2014.  See page 67 and post 996.  From the original drawings it appears that the dinghy or jol was stored right side up.  Even a few of the photos I hive bear this out.  Could it have had one or two bung style holes with tapered stoppers?  I guess so but I have no info about that and the dinghy lines drawings I have don't show it.
My guess is that when pulling the dinghy out they may very well have tipped it on it's stern end or even bow end to drain most of the water out.  I have one photo where they have submerged the sub till the aft deck was awash and floated the dinghy out.  
 
Bottom line is that it was most likely stowed right side up.  
 
Here is a drawing of the sub and a close-up of the dinghy stored.
 

 

 
Cheers,

Most modern tall ship standing rigging is nearly always steel wire rope and thus its stable and can't stretch. But in the old days all rigging was natural fiber and it would stretch. Not only stretching as a result of strain placed upon it during use but also do to changing atmospheric conditions. Also it could shrink. So standing rigging had to be adjusted fairly regularly. 

Pat has some good points, the people who designed those ships were not dumb and they had lots of experienced people to obtain details from so they could provide the space needed to work and maintain the guns. Without maintenance which requires access to the guns, there would be no point in having them. Suspect the tiller was as close to the  overhead beams as could be, leaving room to use the deck space below it for useful purposes, such as small private living spaces, gun maintenance and the firing of them without undue danger of being crowned by the tiller. Could be that any cabins were forward of the tiller with some more close to the rudder post so the tiller swing would be minimal. Anyone living there would be keeping close watch on the rudder post bloomers.
jud

Without a side view it would be hard to say. What would be reasonable is those pumps that appear to be on the same tube, aren't. Maybe the lower pump is rigged to discharge into a cistern which would be open to drain to the deck if the discharge would drain overboard and closed if the water was needed or wanted to be pumped higher. The upper set of pumps would need to be offset so the same cistern could be used to catch the discharge of the lower and hold it for the upper pump to use it a a water intake. Water is heavy and enough of it riding up in separate moving chambers on the same chain might have a lift height limit or they wanted to be able to occasionally discharge water on both decks..
jud

Shihawk, there are some very thoughtful and wise comments regarding the saw and various other tools so far in this thread about your question, that fact that you asked the question leads me to think that you are not sure yet.
Greg's post outlining the difference between making something by hand or with machine tools, speaks to a few issues;
 
First his choice to reject an item made with hand tools for an item made with machines. His reason he liked the accuracy of the latter better.
 
Second, he cited the difference in time that each item took to make. The hand made item took longer than the machine made item.
 
Third, the difference in the number of tools used to make the item, four machine tools, disc sander, lathe, drill press, table saw. versus one power tool and a hand tool, Dremel, chisel.
 
Now to my point, all tools require a degree of comfort for you to be able to use them to their greatest advantage, this takes time and practice regardless of the tool, power, machine or hand. As you continue to develop your skills (this is a lifetime activity,anyone who disagrees is lying) you will come to a point where you decide how you want to continue working, because each tool has its advantages and disadvantages, and only you can make that choice as to how you want to proceed.
 
A final comment about quality of workmanship, many of the cherished models in the museums were made without electricity, that is the ultimate beauty of a hand tool.
 
Michael

Even though my actual build probably won't start for some time, I decided to go ahead and start my build log.
 
I purchased my MS Constitution kit a few days ago as what was anticipated to be a belated birthday present to myself. I say belated because I was quite certain the kit would not arrive until later this week. In fact, the expected delivery date was November 7th and my birthday was yesterday.
 
When I got home from work yesterday evening, my better half told me that a package had been delivered. I figured it was some books I had ordered for research on the Constitution. But amazingly, it was my Model Shipways kit. Quite honestly, I have no idea how it arrived so quickly. I didn't order it until Friday and it arrived on Monday - on my birthday. 
 
As the topic title indicates, I'll be bashing the Model Shipways kit and building it to 1812 Era specs. That being said, I'm going to attempt to use a single post as a one-stop location to document all of the necessary changes to bring the MS kit to 1812 Era specs. All posts after that will be used to document the build progress itself. As I identify changes that need to be made to the MS kit to bring it to 1812 Era specs, I'll come back and edit that post. Hopefully, it will help folks down the road who want to build the MS kit to 1812 specs but, don't have a lot of time to devote to research.
 
I assure you that I'm going to attempt to build this kit and remain as true to the 1812 Era specs as possible. However, given that there is so much that we DON'T know about this era, there will invariably be things that come down to a matter of personal preference. What I would ask of all the Constitution researchers out there is, if you see something in my modification log that is obviously wrong, please point me in the right direction. You folks have been doing this much longer than I have and are undoubtedly much more knowledgeable regarding her history and construction. So, please keep me on the right path.
 
Clark Fletcher (Fletch)

Just be patiente, and try different tips and tutorials... and one day you ll find that ... it simply works!
 
 

i just got an email from them they going to send me a new one the best company ever!!!

Hoi Carl, I guess vanity set in and shame   No, my friend, I'll make a picture of it with an explanation.  I really should star over again and may just do it but using a different method making the frames.  
I'm stubborn enough to just do that.  Tomorrow, with an explanation and pics, promise - - - provided I survive this crazy bug.
 
Right now I'm battling a flue like thing that drug me down.  I caught it from Gwen, naturally - - it's her fault 
 
By the way, all you y'all - attention please - - - I visited the Urology Center this morning and received the results of the three pieces of tissue from the bladder for the biopsy.  He even included one sample of the muscle.  The verdict - - drumroll please - - - all three are negative, NO benign tissue!!!!!        
No cancer anymore!!!!  
 
Cheers,
 
 

I saw a shop like Grimber describes except they used a damp bedsheet. Not soaking, just sprayed lightly with a spray bottle.  I've also seen this used in paint shops for cars.

Interesting on the PVC. I actually have a fine dust filter that filters the air leaving my cyclone to .5 Micron. When I installed my system ( well over 10 years now) I decided to put spiral metal ductwork in. Primarily because of the throughput since it is a larger circumference, but also because it was stronger than standard metal ducting.Outside of the Cyclone, I have Delta air handlers that filter ambient air down to 1 Micron. I have two hanging in the workshop since it is long and narrow. Each is set to change the air in a 20x20' room up to 18 times per hour. 
 
Also, since sanding is one of the worst culprits for dust, I have a 4'x3' sanding table that I can hook into the dust control system that pulls a strong downdraft on the top. So I can place the object I am sanding on the table and the dust is all sucked downward and into the cyclone.
 
My biggest concern with my shop was it is in deep the basement of our house so any dust that escapes would find itself throughout the house. I way overbuild the dust collection system so I could counter that. So far it has worked like a charm.

Jud
Thanks for the info I shall have a look. although I have been using my Auto-Cad LT 2000 for 14 years now.
 
Michael

The last illustration of Dafi's post # 25, is an exceptional rig. Chains, Pendents and Block and Tackle could be rigged in a straight forward manner up to the point the tackle block was secured to the spar on each side, now what? Directing two crews on opposite side to work the rudder in a coordinated manner would make a landing officer who controls landings on a carrier scream. Rigging those falls to the wheel would work just fine, if the wheel was gone, using the capstan with the dogs tied up would also allow for a lot of movement in the tackles  needed to work the the falls. Didn't pick that up, until tonight, while studying those sketches closer.
jud

Michael
Have been using General Cad for a long time now. General Cad is a windows version developed for all the frustrated Generic Cad users so they could  upgrade to a Windows environment, it works great and most of the commands are the same as Generic. Think my last Generic Cad was 6.1 or something and I kept using it even after Micro Soft stopped supporting it. Heard about General Cad sometime later, think it was the 3.1 version that I started with, now using 11.1 and an upgrade to 12 is being offered, cheap enough for the up grade I will probably buy it for the additional graphic ability's. Also for a short time, a 3D upgrade is available for $149, haven't made up my mind about purchasing it, would probably be fun and it would open up virtual ship building for me. Might look at their Home page for a lot more info what it does, why it was created and the price. Have mentioned it several times, but price might be a bit much for most. I originally bought Generic because I needed to keep current with what was happening with the increasing use of Cad and had to do it myself because way out here no one was using Cad of any kind, my teacher was the owners manual which became well worn. It was my dime for the software and hardware and Auto Cad was out of my price range was my original reason for the purchase, glad I did. As an old Generic Cad user yourself, a look at their web site might be interesting for you.
jud

Jud
Brought back many memories of my frustrations with the first version of Autocad Light. I really likes the simplicity of Generic Cad it was too big a competition for Autocad so that is why they took it over , they had 2 updates if my memory serves me correctly, them stopped because they introduced Autocad LT 98, which was an absolute dog to use in my opinion, One day I overheard some chaps talking about the new Autocad Lt 2000 and how easy it was to use, I tried the newer version and found it to be much better. and because the generic was not being supported I switched. I still miss the simple two finger commands of Generic though "rd" was one I used a lot it is fading from memory now though.
 
Michael

Ahoy Mates
 
Anyone who follows my builds knows I like treenails. This whole argument about scale amuses me. Really how many rigging components are anywhere near scale; but we all seem to enjoy adding them. Build something you enjoy looking at, not something that is going in a museum as a scale replica, or to meet the expectations of others. Having a treenail out of scale or slightly more visible would not even make the list of mistakes on most builds. Nor would it rate when compared to the mistakes the manufacturer has already built into most kits.  Many scratch builder use treenails so we won't even go there 
 
One additional note about treenails: They will strengthen your kit considerably and prevent planks from springing years down the road, which for me makes them worth the effort . Not to mention they can look really good and represent that actual construction method used. 
 
Brought to you by the committee to stop treenail abuse