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Mike Y

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  1. Mike Y
    Finally got in the right mood to make a rabbet. Was pretty scared, one mistake - and need to replace a section of a keel (which would be a good reason to add some joints though However, so far it works out pretty well. Started with a slow and gentle cutting of a straight line, using inner line of a keel as a base: That give a straight and parallel lines. Another proof that good jig means a lot. Then cutting away a strip in between, and smoothening it with a triangle-shaped file: Decided not to make a big fat rabbet, will either widen it later, or shape the edge of a gardboard plank, so it will tightly fit into the rabbet. It is anyway better than an ugly gap between gardboard and keel, if rabbet is too wide. Position against the frames is ok, just a minor adjustments required for some frames: But that was all games, now need to continue the rabbet on the stem: How to make a nice curve - no idea. Can't come up with any jig idea, because there is no base line to attach to. There is no chisel to make such curve. Trying to scratch it by hand will fail due to a wood grain. Thinking of making an acrylic template, and scratching the line using that template. Or there are some better tricks? Would appreciate your advices!
  2. Mike Y
    That would be fun! Nice woods!
  3. Mike Y
    Installed 7 frames around midship to see how the all look together. Now it is starting to look ship-alike! Very curious how the edge of a frame will look like when faired and sanded... A shot inside the hull promises that there would be a lot of fairing to make it smooth
  4. Mike Y
    That's a lot of fairing and sanding! Good start!
  5. Mike Y
    There are a number of topics about that - no consensus, people use different glues. I use paper stick glue, then scrape away the paper. A bit of sanding is needed anyway, and it removes all traces of a glue completely.
  6. Mike Y
    Making around 5 frames in two weeks, can't spend more then 20-30min every evening But it is a pretty good relaxation. However, the result is frustrating. Yep, the wood colour difference again. It looks like a frame built with three different kinds of wood, where only one of them is pear, and others are only technically pear, not something you consider as pear for a modelling. Got really tired of that. But then I found a promising build log - La Belle by Hans Christian, where pear looks like pear! And colour is not varying, and finish is already nice. Thanks Hans for providing a better photos His wood is from ArkoWood - www.arkowood-shop.de Ordered new frame blanks there, all 60 meters of a cute pear. They do custom milling, and the order processing time is just 1-2 weeks. The price is ok, just 150 EUR / 190 USD, plus cheap shipping, plus no import taxes or customs (because it is inside EU). Will report when I will receive it, looking forward. It would be great to have a high quality supplier nearby, at least 4 out of 5 stars on a HobbyMill grade Truly hope it is my last whining about the wood quality.
  7. Mike Y
    Proxxon is probably the only option for a livingroom modellers, where the bandsaw is fitted to the table and stored in the shelf later on... Other saws are larger. I have proxxon one, it is really good, precise and easy to setup. But a bit louder then I expected - the plastic case acts like a resonator. See http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5807-proxxon-micro-mbs-240e-band-saw-review/for details. Lack of a fence is disappointing though..
  8. Mike Y
    Markus, followed your advice. Thanks! Before: After: It is 2-3 layers of a thick corrugated fibreboard, glued with a thick double sided sticky tape. Plus some foam-style packaging material between the case and wheel mounts. It does make a difference. It is not dramatically silent, but definitely less noisy then before. The method is very cheap and has no drawbacks, so why not To make it really silent I am probably need to make it from a massive wood piece. But that is an overkill. At least now I can use the bandsaw without worrying about my neighbours
  9. Mike Y
    I wonder how they patched that holes while being in the sea.. How the ship looked like after a first battle. And here is a good slo-mo of the hull damage:
  10. Mike Y
    David, I did not have a courage to draft the first scratch build based on original drawings... So many research and chance of mistake is so big. But that sounds exciting! I will follow your log.
  11. Mike Y
    I am also using that saw a lot. I even started to use it for straight cuts instead of a cheap table saw There is just one problem. It is quite noisy, and looks like the main source of a noise is a ball bearing in a top wheel. I reduced it a bit by adding some soft material between the top wheel mount and the case, but it is still too nasty loud. The main issue is that the plastic case of a saw acts like a resonator, enhancing the sound. Anybody had the same issue?
  12. Mike Y
    Thanks Mark! The hardest part is to decide how I want it to look like. Trying to imagine an image of a finished model, and fit various coloring on it best way to drive yourself crazy into a modeling block!
  13. Mike Y
    isali, there was no filling for deadwood. Usually triying to shape it so it will fit without a filler... Thick PVA based glue acts like a filler by itself Experimented with a black tissue paper to make joints more pronounced, but it makes them too black, too bright. Not sure it is a good thing on that particular parts. Jason, Kevin, welcome!
  14. Mike Y
    Now good luck with fitting it all together! That is tricky
  15. Mike Y
    Thanks a lot! Very elegant solution, and looks more precise then a similar sanding station design.
  16. Mike Y
    No pre-order anymore. Amazon just mailed that book is not available and there is no ETA. The amazon page itself says "Out of Print--Limited Availability." http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Line-History-Models/dp/1848322143 Does anybody have any info?
  17. Mike Y
    That is a very fine wood you have there! Trying to find pear on Arkowood website, but can't seem to find it.. Or it is not on a website?
  18. Mike Y
    Sorry to hijack into that log, but I found an interesting post. Wasa museum is building a small section of the hull, historically correct. It is under construction, and the latest info is here: http://www.vasamuseet.se/sv/Skeppet/Skeppsbloggen/Hakan-Altrock/Nyanser-av-gratt/ Looking forward to see it!
  19. Mike Y
    However, I decided to make rabbet much later, when all main frames would be cut. Before it, would be hard to determine the proper angle of the rabbet, how planks will go. I am not going to glue the frames before they are all cut anyway Assembled all parts on a framing jig: It nicely decorates the modeling area Now I know how to make a nice frames, keel is ready, so let's make some sawdust and produce all remaining frames! Luckily that model will have just 40 frames, due to a bigger (non-correct) spacing between them, so hope to make it in 3-4 months. Winter is coming!
  20. Mike Y
    Thanks everybody for the advices, it is really much easier than I thought After a lot of experimenting with scrap wood, it turned out that scrapers will not give a straight enough line. There should be something that ignores the grains and goes straight. So I ended up with a following process, not saying it is the only correct one. Use flat chisel to set the straight line for the rabbet, making two cutoff lines. Cut away the wood between those lines with a blade: Use triangular file to shape the rabbet. Do straight passes: That triangular file was the key part, it keeps the straight line, not going sideways due to a wood grain. Also if you need to add an angle to the rabbet - just change the angle of the file:
  21. Mike Y
    If the glue is on the surface - you can try a rotary tool with nylon brush. Works surprisingly well. Do a short touches, if you press the brush to the wood for a long time - it will overheat and burn the wood. Brush like this: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-403-Bristle-Brush/dp/B00004UDGS
  22. Mike Y
    Toni, thanks for the advice! I am probably just overthinking it Digged through various blogs here - indeed, looks like a light passes of blade, chisels and scrapers will work nicely. Just do not use power tools and do not rush it. Hope it will work out! Omega, Mark, thanks a lot!
  23. Mike Y
    Hip hip hooray!
  24. Mike Y
    End result: Now the fun part - cutting the rabbet. I do not have any power tools to do it, so will make some hand jig and will slooooowly cut it with chisel and knife. Now when the keel is assembled, it would be a pity to ruin it by making a bad rabbet.
  25. Mike Y
    Removed the nasty laser char. In hindsight, it is good that I selected a timbering set without laser cut frames, the char removal process is messy and definitely not pleasant. In his youtube videos, Dave recommends to remove the char using the shaving blade. It works only to small extent, because char is pretty deep in the wood. Here are the laser cut pieces on a different phased of cleaning: Another issue is a bad precision of a laser at some lines, they are cut with "steps", so lots of wood should be filed away to make that surface smooth: Some joints are too wide - they fit tightly with char, but if you start to remove the char (and the "steps") - then the joint is too weak: So I cut away that joint and scratched a new one Another improvement was a deadwood - supplied laser cut deadwood was made of a single piece, which is too far from desired level of correctness. So I made a better one. But it was a hell of a job to nicely fit all the curved timbers together! It is easy to make a tight fit when parts are straight, but when they are curved - it really needs a skill. Here is how ugly it looks when just cut: Next time will try to cut smoother... It took around 4 hours of sanding and filing and sending and filing to make them fit. Resulting fitting is not great, but next time will do better:

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