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Everything posted by Mike Y
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ancre La Belle 1684 by Nenseth - 1:36 scale
Mike Y replied to Nenseth's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Hej Hans, How is your build going? Any new photos to share? -
Frame mass-production in progress... Boring, once the process is stable - it becomes just a matter of time that spring clamps I am using for lamination are actually big and strong. The benefit comparing to regular clamps - you get an even and continuous pressure at all points, no way to over-tighten one clamp and under-tighten another. In a meanwhile, used my "training model" to cut the gunports. Turned out to be harder than I expected, swiss files are not strong enough - so most of the wood is removed with knife and chisel, which is kind of scary. Ordered Xacto micro blade, #15, to help with gunport cutting: http://xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades/classic-blades/Keyhole-Saw-Blade-15.aspx Built the height transferring device. Height gauges are too expensive, and it is a pleasure to build a small cute tools out of wood. Using clamp instead of a brass knob - looks weird, but will not damage the wood. And clamp is a bit easier to use
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Straight and accurate, beauty! As for the wood - with your level of accuracy, think about switching to boxwood (I guess Crown Timberyard have a replacement package). It is such a pleasure to work with and plank with it. You can check pictures in my longboat build log, planked with boxwood (castello). Basswood planks are soft and fluffy...
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- 18th century longboat
- model shipways
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Learned a lesson about Hahn method - should be really careful with the width of the frame tips, the ones that are glued to the framing jig: I was cutting them very roughly (they are not a part of the model, would be cut off anyway). As a result, got some frames that are not in line with other frames: To fix it, reduced thickness of some frame tips and inserting spacers into the others: The good thing is that I will have one side fully planked - I do not care that much about consistency of that side. The other side, that would be opened - is now in line. All 20 midship frames are permanently glued in and fixed with Castello treenails:
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Thanks for posting detailed photos of the process, that is quite useful to pick up some ideas. Good luck with the build! Looks very neat!
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Made a very ugly jig made from plexiglass sheets, to get a straight 90 degrees for all dimensions when gluing the frames. Looks working, now I am trying not to rush things and go slowly, one-two frames a day - glue should set, so frame will not get skewed.
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Pardon a stupid question, but how the hull will handle the changes in humidity, temperature, etc? If I understood correctly, it is a monolytic hull, all bulkheads and spacers are glued together. The ship is long and narrow. How do you save it from twisting? If humidity changes, how the stress would be reliefed without a hull deformation? P.S.: yes, I am a member of the Overthinkers club for years
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- young america
- clipper
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Thanks Albert! Your Naiad is one of my unreachable targets, it is soo beautiful! Patrick, thanks, if only I can have enough time to build it as fast as I want! Life offers so many interesting things, and just a few hours a day when you can enjoy them...
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Current state of things: not so much modelling, more of a summer activities, camping, etc. Ordered a set of engineering squares to glue the frames straight. Still waiting for the shipping... Will start cutting remaining frames in a meanwhile
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Thank you, Antony! Will try not to dissappoint Omega1234, nope, better focus on getting one model done with a better quality. At least, that is the plan so far
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Sanding is finished, dust washed away! Covered all frames with poly, they are drying now. Just realised that I actually have two models now! One made out of "yellow-ish" pear, and the one from the "pink-ish" pear. The yellow one is used as a training model. I am practicing on it to avoid some mistakes on a real model. For example, as you see on a background, I installed 9 frames on a training model - and realised that: a) Not so easy to align frames to 90 degrees in all directions, need to make a jig to set the frames square. Even without gluing frames to the building jig, the construction is rigid enough for fairing, no need to glue in any fillers or spacers. That worried me for a while, because I will have one side fully unplanked, and installing fillers on one side only might cause hull asymmetry.
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Jack, Grant - sure, let it be flat! Covered keel and four frames with poly, give it a day to dry
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Tested two different types of wipe-on poly. Same producer, one is shiny, one is flat. Test pieces are cut from the same piece of wood, same part of the piece, so without finish they are completely identical. The difference is quite obvious with a real eye, and my camera (and/or photo skills) is not good enough to show it properly Shiny finish is unnaturally shiny, and makes wood look a bit darker. Will go with the flat one, it is barely visible, and preserves the natural color of the wood, while providing some basic protection. Natural light: Flash:
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Please do not go away! Your critics is always very welcome! And I have a hard time trying to name different sides of a frame...
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Of course, there is a reserve on the outer and inner edges of a frames. I am sanding the other part, "flat" side of a frame, it will not be affected during fairing.
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Skeleton finished, will cut the rabbet after covering it with wipe-on poly. In a meanwhile, experimenting with different finishes to find the right one for me. Now sanding the sides of the frames, very stupid process that I was trying to delay as much as possible Aiming to get a consistent 7.4mm thickness to make sure that frames would be properly aligned. Hope to finish it this week, sawdust is covering the table, bleeh! And nobody will see the difference anyway...
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Got distracted with other things - summer is coming, and I suddenly ended up buying a real boat.. Of course it needs maintenance, cleaning, parking, blah blah, so not so much time for a modelling. Got guns and carriages from Syren Ship Models: And working on the stem: Here is the previous version for comparison: As usual, joints are blackened with a tissue paper and reinforced with treenails. Stem is not fully accurate, knee is simplified, but decided to keep it simpler on a first fully framed model. Hope to finish the skeleton during May, and start sanding and mounting 20 midship frames.
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Stabilizing a bandsaw (edited by moderator)
Mike Y replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Rubber mat might not help - the body of the bandsaw acts like a big resonator... Learned it a hard way -
Proxxon Bandsaw - owner feedback
Mike Y replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have that saw, it is actually powerful. I use it instead of a scroll saw, works very wekk. Ripping planks - well, it has enough power, but it has no fence, so how are you going to keep a consistent thickness?
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