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Everything posted by Mike Y
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Thinking of getting some source of compressed air to blow away the dust and sawdust from the details before applying the finish, for example. Is there such thing? There are many kinds of compressors in the market, which one would be useful for such usecase? Maybe the airbrush compressor? I also see the cans with compressed air, are they powerful enough to remove the sawdust? Any ideas are welcome, wiping away the sawdust with a soft cloth does not really work in a tight corners. And I need to clean the model from time to time, can't always store in a case..
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Got some cool stuff for my build today! Hope it will improve the accuracy. Really love the micro dremel - good balance, easy to align to a 90deg angle (I do not have a drill press unfortunately). And on a low speed it is very quiet comparing to a regular dremel - meaning that I can use it while my daughter is trying to fell asleep. And optivisor is beating the expectations - how I managed to live without it before??? Clean view, light on a head, good lenses.
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HMS Naiad 1797 by albert - FINISHED - 1/48
Mike Y replied to albert's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Aah!.... -
Thanks for a nice words! Jack, found the monofilament on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Skysper-500M-Fishing-Nylon-Black/dp/B00R71DEF8/ It is the largest I found. Actually wanted something like 0.6. The bigger sizes are around 1.5mm, they are made for tennis rackets. I saw your ebony solution, amazing! But I worry that black ebony dust will make pear around it dirty when I sand the frame. Is that a problem?
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Slowly progressing with the keel / stem / stern assembly. Finished the deadwood and the slots for the wing transoms. Instead of chiseling, made that slots by gluing a wood strips and sanding it down to a smooth surface. (Tar simulation is done with a black paper again). Simulating the iron bolts with 0.5mm black monofilament: It is a little bit not to the scale, should be 0.52mm instead of 0.50 (assuming that original bolts were 1 inch thick). But that is the biggest monofilament I found. Maybe on a next, true replica model will use the real iron bolts (with the heads). But this time - a small simplification. Only one side of a frame has a bolts, because another side would be fully planked anyway. Lots of sanding ahead - need to go through 240 -> 320 -> 400 -> 600 -> 1200 -> 2000 grits to achieve a consistent thickness of a frame and a smooth finish.
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20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!): Looks ship-alike! Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones. Overall build status: (the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish) Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame.. So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...
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Looks seriously good! If only I can make a frames like yours...
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Careful reader mentioned that the joint is cut in a wrong direction - it should be rotated 90deg. Nice catch! But decided to leave it as is - otherwise no point in making such joints, they would be fully invisible.. And making a third version of a keel on a first fully framed model sounds like an overkill, I will never finish it if I go that road Let's call it an artistic touch, like Hahn's frames Toni, thank you for advice! I was looking on your log as a source of many inspirations!
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Patrick, wouldn't it bleed following a wood grain? Will try, thanks for the tip!
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Alan: hmm, I was sure that I read about the tissue paper method somewhere on MSW Tried it on a scrap wood, works quite well. The paper inside the joint could be perforated and/or cut slightly to improve the glue penetration. But such joint should be definitely reinforced with the treenails. Mark: thanks! There would be some sanding ahead, which should also make the line black line more consistent
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While assembling frames, started the keel assembly (to replace the laser cut keel that I used before). Joint is blackened with a tissue paper. Castello treenails reinforce the joint, because paper makes it a bit weak. The treenails would be completely hidden by the false keel, so they have a purely functional purpose Hope that the paper line would be more accurate after a final sanding.
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Very neat color combination! Chess-style chocks
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Received my copy. The book is very very close to "The Sailing Frigate", discussed in http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8953-the-sailing-frigate-by-robert-gardiner/ Same series, same format. Some models in the book are also the same. But it is a good addition. Definitely a good reading and an overview, but do not expect a very deep description of the ship anatomy. Lots of nice model photos!
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Replaced the table of my disk sander - stock one was nice but not flat - slightly rising right near the disk. It was a problem when shaping the keel parts - they are thin, and sanded on a wrong angle due to skewed table. Did not bothered to contact proxxon for replacement, plus I wanted a smaller gap between the table and the disk. Looks weird, but works pretty well - it is flat at least! Disk sander made a big difference in the frame blank production speed. It takes like 30sec per blank to to set a straight edge with a proper angle. And allows to cut blanks on a bandsaw, freehand, with less accuracy and precision - it does not matter, sander will make it straight anyway. Amazing! It took me just 4 hours to make the next batch of blanks, which would be used for the next 10 frames. (Left side - for planked side, right side - for opened side, finely selected wood pieces)
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Minor status update. Not so much going on - building frames when I have a time. Just around half of the work is done for a mere 10 frames in that batch The keel structure is roughly cut and shaped, but waiting for TFFM books to arrive before I will fine-fit and assemble it - want to make sure that it would be done correctly, at least on the parts that would be visible.
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Oh what? It is done? Ouch... Maybe there is a missing chapter in the book? Please please continue! Ok, just kidding, CONGRATULATIONS! What is your plan for the next build?
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The hull would be ready in a year or so, would be rigged after launch. Unfortunately it will not have any voyages, will be parked and work as a museum. So far they do not plan to install any engines, pure sail power. It is illegal to operate a fully wooden ship under a russian flag (fire hazard, blah blah). No exception for replicas. There is another replica of frigate of the same period. It was bult by patriots and enthusiasts, but forced to sail outside of russian waters, not allowed to enter them. See https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A//ru.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/%25D0%25A8%25D1%2582%25D0%25B0%25D0%25BD%25D0%25B4%25D0%25B0%25D1%2580%25D1%2582_%28%25D1%2584%25D1%2580%25D0%25B5%25D0%25B3%25D0%25B0%25D1%2582%2C_1999%29%23.D0.AE.D1.80.D0.B8.D0.B4.D0.B8.D1.87.D0.B5.D1.81.D0.BA.D0.B8.D0.B5_.D0.BA.D But these guys (Poltava project) are sponsored by Gazprom, one if the most corrupt and powerful structures in the country, so the term "illegal" do not apply to them. Let's see.
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Congratulations! Very neat build!
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- 18th century longboat
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The project is moving really fast - the construction was started just 9 months ago! All carpenters are professionals, and there are around 100 carpenters working on a project 5 days a week (and today was a small weekend shift). The hull is huge! Hard to show the scale on a photos, but just look on how small the people are near that hull:
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Stem: Sistered frame construction: Frames are lofted and assembled right on a floor, and later fitted to the hull: Joinery:
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