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Mike Y

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  1. Mike Y
    David, I did not have a courage to draft the first scratch build based on original drawings... So many research and chance of mistake is so big. But that sounds exciting! I will follow your log.
  2. Mike Y
    I am also using that saw a lot. I even started to use it for straight cuts instead of a cheap table saw There is just one problem. It is quite noisy, and looks like the main source of a noise is a ball bearing in a top wheel. I reduced it a bit by adding some soft material between the top wheel mount and the case, but it is still too nasty loud. The main issue is that the plastic case of a saw acts like a resonator, enhancing the sound. Anybody had the same issue?
  3. Mike Y
    Thanks Mark! The hardest part is to decide how I want it to look like. Trying to imagine an image of a finished model, and fit various coloring on it best way to drive yourself crazy into a modeling block!
  4. Mike Y
    isali, there was no filling for deadwood. Usually triying to shape it so it will fit without a filler... Thick PVA based glue acts like a filler by itself Experimented with a black tissue paper to make joints more pronounced, but it makes them too black, too bright. Not sure it is a good thing on that particular parts. Jason, Kevin, welcome!
  5. Mike Y
    Now good luck with fitting it all together! That is tricky
  6. Mike Y
    Thanks a lot! Very elegant solution, and looks more precise then a similar sanding station design.
  7. Mike Y
    No pre-order anymore. Amazon just mailed that book is not available and there is no ETA. The amazon page itself says "Out of Print--Limited Availability." http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Line-History-Models/dp/1848322143 Does anybody have any info?
  8. Mike Y
    That is a very fine wood you have there! Trying to find pear on Arkowood website, but can't seem to find it.. Or it is not on a website?
  9. Mike Y
    Sorry to hijack into that log, but I found an interesting post. Wasa museum is building a small section of the hull, historically correct. It is under construction, and the latest info is here: http://www.vasamuseet.se/sv/Skeppet/Skeppsbloggen/Hakan-Altrock/Nyanser-av-gratt/ Looking forward to see it!
  10. Mike Y
    However, I decided to make rabbet much later, when all main frames would be cut. Before it, would be hard to determine the proper angle of the rabbet, how planks will go. I am not going to glue the frames before they are all cut anyway Assembled all parts on a framing jig: It nicely decorates the modeling area Now I know how to make a nice frames, keel is ready, so let's make some sawdust and produce all remaining frames! Luckily that model will have just 40 frames, due to a bigger (non-correct) spacing between them, so hope to make it in 3-4 months. Winter is coming!
  11. Mike Y
    Thanks everybody for the advices, it is really much easier than I thought After a lot of experimenting with scrap wood, it turned out that scrapers will not give a straight enough line. There should be something that ignores the grains and goes straight. So I ended up with a following process, not saying it is the only correct one. Use flat chisel to set the straight line for the rabbet, making two cutoff lines. Cut away the wood between those lines with a blade: Use triangular file to shape the rabbet. Do straight passes: That triangular file was the key part, it keeps the straight line, not going sideways due to a wood grain. Also if you need to add an angle to the rabbet - just change the angle of the file:
  12. Mike Y
    If the glue is on the surface - you can try a rotary tool with nylon brush. Works surprisingly well. Do a short touches, if you press the brush to the wood for a long time - it will overheat and burn the wood. Brush like this: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-403-Bristle-Brush/dp/B00004UDGS
  13. Mike Y
    Toni, thanks for the advice! I am probably just overthinking it Digged through various blogs here - indeed, looks like a light passes of blade, chisels and scrapers will work nicely. Just do not use power tools and do not rush it. Hope it will work out! Omega, Mark, thanks a lot!
  14. Mike Y
    Hip hip hooray!
  15. Mike Y
    End result: Now the fun part - cutting the rabbet. I do not have any power tools to do it, so will make some hand jig and will slooooowly cut it with chisel and knife. Now when the keel is assembled, it would be a pity to ruin it by making a bad rabbet.
  16. Mike Y
    Removed the nasty laser char. In hindsight, it is good that I selected a timbering set without laser cut frames, the char removal process is messy and definitely not pleasant. In his youtube videos, Dave recommends to remove the char using the shaving blade. It works only to small extent, because char is pretty deep in the wood. Here are the laser cut pieces on a different phased of cleaning: Another issue is a bad precision of a laser at some lines, they are cut with "steps", so lots of wood should be filed away to make that surface smooth: Some joints are too wide - they fit tightly with char, but if you start to remove the char (and the "steps") - then the joint is too weak: So I cut away that joint and scratched a new one Another improvement was a deadwood - supplied laser cut deadwood was made of a single piece, which is too far from desired level of correctness. So I made a better one. But it was a hell of a job to nicely fit all the curved timbers together! It is easy to make a tight fit when parts are straight, but when they are curved - it really needs a skill. Here is how ugly it looks when just cut: Next time will try to cut smoother... It took around 4 hours of sanding and filing and sending and filing to make them fit. Resulting fitting is not great, but next time will do better:
  17. Mike Y
    Your precision and accuracy on that scale is fantastic!
  18. Mike Y
    Serious approach! Maybe you can try to cut a few test planks from some more standard modelling wood, to see if the problem is in the saw or in the wood? Also, what is the problem exactly? If you show some photos illustrating it - maybe there is an easy solution for the problem.
  19. Mike Y
    Wow, now it looks very accurate! Lovely!
  20. Mike Y
    Interesting wood selection! Bloody station
  21. Mike Y
    Ben, actually just recently I was looking on a photos in your log, looking on your nice wood, thinking "yep, there is Pear and pear...."
  22. Mike Y
    Yep, saw in the Swan or Echo build logs, that Jeff's pear is quite different indeed. Darker, more cherry-ish Next frame, this time I am an idiot. Missed a tiny crack on a frame blank, after sanding it is becoming very clear: The colour variation of a brighter/darker pear might be actually good. Hard to say, need to make at least 10-15 frames and dry-fit them, to see how it really looks together. Now the plan is simple - assemble the keel, install 4 "key" frames (I selected frames 4, 10, 16, 23), make sure that everything is measured correctly - and then start a frame mass-production!
  23. Mike Y
    Ok, I probably was too emotional while writing previous post. Reviewed all planks today, separating them into "normal" and "trash it" piles. 31% of planks are defected (big grey areas, etc). Luckily, on most of them defect takes around half of the plank, so in total I am going to trash around 15-20% of planks. That would be probably ok, because I am hoping that there was a reserve for oopsies. Close-up of defected wood: Normal wood: Even without grey spots, note the colour deviation on a "normal" pile. it is clear that Lumberyard have a "prime" wood, that is used for laser cut parts. They are really good - quite consistent dark colour, amazing: For some reason, for frame blanks Lumberyard use second sort pear. That is fully understandable, with Hahn method most of the wood package is a wood for frame blanks, and using cheaper wood probably makes a big different cost-wise. But I would appreciate if they just offer a prime wood for frame blanks, for extra cost.. Will continue with that wood for a while. If after 10 frames it would be obvious that this wood is too bad - will recycle all frames and make a new ones with a wood from Hobbymill. I saw their swiss pear in a various build logs, and it is very consistent in colour. And I have boxwood from Hobbymill, which is the best would I ever saw. No problem with it, happy customer. P.S.: I have no intention on blaming Lumberyard, but it would be fair to post a photos of a wood that you get in a package. Sorry for rant, but it is quite disappointing to feel the second rate customer, who got the second rate wood.
  24. Mike Y
    Mark, you are right, the outside edge of a frame is more important. But on the outside it looks simply like a dirty grey stain. I understand that wood have a colour variation, and it is good. But long grey spots are not ok Alan, welcome! Happy to see you
  25. Mike Y
    Brian, I am idiot, I meant ebony of course David, thanks for explanation! Will probably try it anyway, and fallback to painted boxwood if I will fail to tame that tricky wood

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