Mike Y

I quite agree with Chuck.  No one currently holds those kinds of tolerances except Jason.   I didn't check my wood order from Jeff, I just spot checked a few pieces out of the pile I got and proceeded to cut it up for frame blanks.  I do have some old Midwest wood (cherry and I think "red mahogany") that was consistent but not like that. 
 
There's been some other suppliers I've used which to honest, were inconsistent.  Some the wood was excellent in finish and dimensions, other pieces in tsame shipment were crap... off as much a 1/16" from one end to the other. 

Más

Hello Dirk,

do not worry, I am not bored ...
 
Hello Joe, Carl and Mark
I am very pleased about your nice comments, thanks!

Here is a small update:

Hello,
 
it is done, the last cannons are ready. Six at all. But before I could install them, I have to build all the knees for the deck beams and they are so tiny here 
 

 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Thanks Sal, Bob and Per.
 
 
I used furniture wax on the wooden plug, and glued each plank by wiping the glue over the seam instead of trying to glue the edge.
 
To prevent the hull from spreading while fitting the ribs I made a jig. I had that problem with my Cutter - this will do the job nicely :
 

 

 
Here's a tip for edge sanding very small or thin planks - another jig :
 

 
  Danny

Thanks George, and no I don't need any help with drinking the contents .
 
I've finished the planking. It turned out even better than my 1:48 scale cutter :
 

 
There were no problems at all when I pulled it off the plug. Nothing   needed cleaning up inside :
 

 

 
  Danny

Slowly progressing.
 
Some special knees half way down the hull
 

 
And the progress to date
 

 
The pump well I had made years ago got a bit beaten up in storage. As I also was not very happy with some of the dimension of the stock I used I decided to make a new one. 
 

 
I made a jig to make accurate cuts for the dado's on the stanchions, it's hard to see but at the far side where the blade cuts is a thin strip of wood the width of the blade to mak each cut at the same distance.
 

 
The finished stanchions, the vertical dado's were milled.
 

 
Remco

Mortar Barrel continued....
 
Once the barrel had been bored, it was time to part off the workpiece to its final length and shape the base end.  A mandrel was then turned down from some aluminium bar stock, so that it was an easy slide fit in to the barrel, and this was then drilled with a 3/32” end mill, using the same set-up on the Mill as previously.  The mandrel was then placed inside the barrel and a securing pin of 3/32” brass rod was inserted to hold the mandrel securely in place. The pin was a tight push fit, which made the whole assembly quite secure.
 

 
Now it was time to break out the “secret weapon”.  The base of the Mortar Barrel is a hemisphere in shape.  I’d been pondering how to achieve this, when I discovered that Sherline make a “Radius Turning Attachment” for exactly this purpose.  Happy days – a solution to my quandary AND a new accessory!     
 
Here is a picture of the setup, showing the mortar barrel being held in a 3-jaw self-centring chuck by the temporary mandrel.  The radius turning tool is mounted on the cross slide and is quick and easy to set-up and to use.  In this picture, I’ve already started to shape the end, having taken the first couple of passes with the tool.
 

 
A few minutes later and voilà, a perfect hemisphere:
 

 
Prior to commencing to use the radius turning tool, I had used a small centre drill to mark the centre of the end of the base.  Once the radius had been turned, a 3/16” end mill was inserted in the tailstock, and a hole drilled to a depth of 5/16” – the reason will become clear shortly.
 
With this hole drilled, the workpiece was again moved across, with the chuck, onto the rotary table on the Mill, this time mounted in the horizontal position.  The 3/16” end mill was transferred to the Mill and the previously bored hole was used to index the mill table into alignment. The pin in the mandrel was used as a guide to align the barrel such that a slot could now be cut at 90-degrees to the pin. In the following picture, the slot has already been cut to the depth of the previously bored hole (ie 5/16”).
 

 
The base of the mortar barrel is an interesting configuration, and includes the trunnion bar that also blends into the mortar barrel body.  I elected to make this in two pieces, both from 3/16” square stock. The first piece would carry a trapezoid shape to blend into the barrel body, while the second piece would have its end turned into a cylindrical shape to form the trunnions.  Sounds complex, but was really quite easy.  A piece of 1/4" square stock was first re-sized to 3/16” square using the Brynes disc sander. The trapezoid shape was also achieved using the disc sander, while the trunnion bar was simply turned down on each end in the lathe.  Here is a picture of the components prior to assembly:
 

 
The pieces were then assembled and the mandrel and locating pin removed. The hole from the locating pin was filled by a mixture of PVA glue and some of those ebony shavings saved from the first part of the process.  Two handles were made by bending a piece of 1/32” brass wire, chemically blackened and epoxied in place.  Here is the final product prior to receiving a coat of Wipe-On Poly:
 

 
 
And here it is with a “test” fit to the Turntable:
 

 
The completed assembly was given a coat of Wipe-On Poly, and then posed in the firing position for a few final photos (the poly is not yet dry here, hence the slight sheen):
 

 

 
 

 
All in all, I’m well pleased with the way this turned out.  Time spent up front measuring and working out the workflow process was well invested, as was the money spent on the radius turning attachment.  Amazingly, there were no re-dos in the entire process!     Next up – the 4-pounder guns and carriages. 

Thanks again one and all for all the encouraging comments and the "likes".  Life's been a bit hectic lately, so it's been a little while between updates.  I also needed to do some thinking about the next stage, as well as acquiring a new "secret weapon" (more on that later).  At last, this weekend I got to spend some quality time in the shipyard and am well pleased with the results.  I have completed the making of the Mortar Barrel, and documented my process fairly thoroughly in the hope that it may help others who progress down this path, or who (like me) are still novices in the world of machining. This post will therefore be in two parts.
 
The Mortar Barrel
 
The Mortar Barrel is another challenging but fun mini-project in its own right. 
 

 
I decided to turn the Barrel from Ebony, so the starting point was a 1” square piece of Ebony about 90mm long. I chucked this in a self-centring 4-jaw chuck, drilled a centre hole in one end, and mounted it with a live centre.
 

 
The first job was turn the square to a round, with a diameter equal to the maximum diameter of the Mortar Barrel.  Not having much experience in turning Ebony (or anything else for that matter) I used only very light cuts of about 0.25mm depth – it took a while!
 

 
And here’s what was removed to allow the cylinder to emerge:
 

 
Once that little mess was cleaned up, it was time to cut in the various sections of the barrel and reinforcing bands.  I had spent quite a bit of time with the drawings and a ruler measuring where all of these went, and writing myself a set of step-by-step instructions to make the task easier.  This paid off and all went well.  I had to do quite a bit of swapping out of cutting bit from right to left hand bits, and while this is no big deal, it did illustrate the advantage of having a quick-change tool post. (Something to add to the never-ending “accessories to purchase” list!).
 

 
At this point I decided it was a good time to drill the holes to take the “handles”, so the whole piece was transferred in the chuck to the Milling machine.  I mounted the chuck directly onto the rotary table, which itself was mounted on a right-angle attachment.  A right angle tailstock completed the setup, and we were ready to use the sensitive drill attachment, equipped with a No.67 drill bit.  The rotary table was used to position two sets of holes, 60 degrees apart.
 

 
While still in this configuration, I swapped out the drilling attachment for a 3/32” end mill, rotated the piece so that bottom dead centre was facing up, and drilled a hole near where the bottom of the barrel bore would be (more on that shortly).
 
Then it was time to transfer the workpiece, still in the chuck, back to the lathe, where a 5/16” end mill was used to bore out the bore.  An end mill was used in preference to a drill bit for this as it has cutting edges on the sides as well as the end, and so makes a very neat job. The bore was taken down to the bottom of what would become the mid-section of the barrel. (It was very difficult to get a decent photo of this on the lathe).
 

 
Continued next post........
 
 

Hi Mik,
thank´s for your nice comment.
 
Here are a few new images to build the sloop (chaloupe).
The anchor davit (to laying out anchor LINK ) on the stern of the boat is constructed somewhat complex.
For this detail the documents from J. Boudriot were not sufficient.
Therefore, I oriented myself on Atrlas du Genie Maritime.

 

 

 

Hello friends.
The residual frames built in, aligned and sanded
into the required shape of the hull.
 
Karl
 
 
Teil 4
 
 
 

Midship frames were easy, now I am in the area of extreme bevels:

 
Thanks to Mr. Hollom, who built his Oliver Cromwell from Hahn's plans and confirmed that these bevels are correct and could be trusted. If you missed his build log and fantastic model - it is here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1883-oliver-cromwellbeavers-prize-by-peter-mr-hollom-148/
 

After pre-beveling frames already look neat!
 
Current status: 20 frames installed, 20 frames produced and drying from the wipe-on-poly right now.

 
Oh, Oliver Cromell have just 40 frames, so I do not need to produce any more, whoo-hoo!
 
 

I also finished this:

 

 

 

 

 

I finished the winch:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
the beaters are only slightly resting, I trim the squared holes

One last photo for a while (I'm heading to Wales and western England for vacation for a couple of weeks ).  I attached the risers.  I made jigs out of styrene to make sure the height was uniform for the entire length of the riser.  I glued the riser to 5 or 6 frames at a time with PVA, holding the jig in place above, so had time to adjust it, and then moved on to the next section.
 
The photo isn't that great.  the bright halogen light I use for photographs makes the riser's finish look splotchy, it's not in person.  I scribed fairly deep grooves in both risers.  But they disappeared when I soaked the riser in water to get the edge bend at the bow!  I am annoyed, but not worried that it will detract from the overall look.  I've tested the stain/WOP on a scribed thwart and it holds the scribe fine.
 

 
Erik

CANADA POST’S NEW EREBUS STAMP
 
Several months ago I mentioned on my blog that I was working on several side projects related to HMS Terror. Today, Canada Post unveiled a series of new stamps commemorating the Franklin Expedition and the 2014 discovery of HMS Erebus. The stamps include a permanent se-tenant issue and an international-rate stamp, and I was fortunate enough to have been asked to contribute an historically accurate plan to their design of the international-rate stamp. I also provided comments and feedback on the ship depicted in the se-tenant stamp.   
 

The international-rate stamp showing the sonar image combined with  the upper deck plans. Image courtesy
of Canada Post, used with permission. 
 
The international-rate stamp combines a modern sonar image with an upper deck plan of HMS Erebus that I created. The complete upper deck plan is featured on an uncut press sheet and I also produced a cross-section of Erebus that will be included in packaging materials. The deck plan shows HMS Erebus in her 1845 configuration, which no contemporary plan depicts. This new plan is based on ones I created for HMS Terror, which I carefully modified to accurately match the dimensions, fittings, and features of HMS Erebus.
 

The permanent se-tenant showing Erebus trapped in ice. Image courtesy of Canada
Post, used with permission. 
 
When I started creating plans of Franklin’s ships, I never expected that they would be seen by anyone but hobbyists and Franklin enthusiasts. I couldn’t have guessed that they might be used in a project such as this – especially juxtaposed with a real image of HMS Erebus. I was shocked at how accurately the plans matched the sonar image, which exposes much about the technology used on the search and the accuracy of the historical source materials relating to Erebus.
 
It was a thrill to work with the talented designers and professionals from Canada Post, and I’m very pleased with the result. 

WASHINGTON GALLEY PART 1
 
HI ALL
 
WOOD HAS FINALLY BEEN CUT.
STARTED WITH BASIC KEEL COMPONENTS.
MAIN KEEL CUT 3/16 WIDE BY 7/32 DEEP.  FALSE KEEL 3/16  X  1/16.  HOG 3/16  BY 3/32.
ALL CUT FROM SHEET MATERIAL ON THE BYRNES SAW.
 
I DECIDED TO DO THIS IN THREE SEPERATE PIECES AS IT WOULD BE EASIER TO PROFILE THE REBATE.
 
THE HOG(?) HAS PROVED TO BE QUITE A TASKING PIECE TO MAKE ACCURATELY. THE PIECES IN THE PHOTOS ARE THE FOURTH ATTEMPT!!!!
 
I ORIGINALLY ASSUMED THAT THE SPACE BETWEEN THE DOUBLE FRAMES,WHICH ARE 1FT THICK(SIDED) OR 1/4 INCH ON THE MODEL WOULD BE EQUAL TO 0NE FRAME THICKNESS OR 6INCHES IN REAL LIFE (1/8inch) ON THE MODEL.A QUICK MEASUREMENT LATE A NIGHT SEEMED TO CONFIRM THIS.
 
 
WRONG!WRONG!WRONG!............MEASURE TWICE OR EVEN THRICE.......CUT ONCE!
 
THE ACTUAL MEASUEMENT IS 9/16 ON AN INCH.
 
IN ORDER TO CUT THIS ACCURATELY I HAD TO DEVISE A JIG FOR THE MILLING MACHINE
( SEE PHOTOS)
 
 
BUILDING BOARD AND FRAME PLAN PREPARED AND ALMOST READY FOR USE.
 
A FEW JIGS HAVE ALSO BEEN MADE FOR HELP IN FRAME ALIGNMENT....BUT THESE MAY HAVE TO BE REDONE AS THEY MAY BE ON THE CLUNKY SIDE.
 
THATS ABOUT ALL FOR THE MOMENT.....BACK TO WORK WE GO
 
CHEERS....MICK

Instead of using chisel, it might be easier and safer to cut rough slots using scroll/band saw and finish them with a file. 
P.S.: yes, my chiseling skills are really bad (so far), but just pointing that there are other easy options too.

Hello everyone! It has been a while since my last update so hopefully others will come more frequently in the future. Below is a photo showing all the planking completed on one side. Unfortunately I'm having to cope with wood strips that don't have square edges as delivered from the source. This makes things very tedious and slows down the process tremendously. The gun ports were originally done with no pencil edge and were very hard to see. After carefully removing them I made new ones using pencil edging. The last strake has been gradually tapered down to 1/64" and the wale will sit directly below it. The lighter planks at the top will eventually be painted and should give some uniformity to the hull overall.
 

Hello All,

Finally the Nuestra Senora kit is available now. You can still buy it for reduced price until September 15-2015

For more info please visi our webpage:

http://www.dusekship.../nuestra-senora

 

You can also see the unboxing video here:



 

You can also download fourth wallpaper of Nuestra Senora:

http://www.dusekship....com/wallpapers

 

Best regards

Daniel Dusek

Hello,
thanks for the nice comments.

The finished rudder looks like this.

 

 

Instead of using chisel, it might be easier and safer to cut rough slots using scroll/band saw and finish them with a file. 
P.S.: yes, my chiseling skills are really bad (so far), but just pointing that there are other easy options too.

Instead of using chisel, it might be easier and safer to cut rough slots using scroll/band saw and finish them with a file. 
P.S.: yes, my chiseling skills are really bad (so far), but just pointing that there are other easy options too.

$400 US,  max load 70 KG,  for that price, it is surely good, the main difference is the max load is 150 KG for a standing desk.
 
Another option, here in Quebec, on Kijiji, we can buy a  used dental chair between $300 and $600 CA, with a max load of about 150 KG.
 
1 disadvantage; the weight, easy to compensate by adding wheels.

Hello Hobbie,
 
I visited Victory several years ago and I had less than a day as we left from London in the morning by train and we returned in the evening. I can give you two advices a bit contradictory for your visit:
do a lot of detailed pictures - you will be glad later. Be prepared for them: I emptied two sets of batteries doing that as I had to use a lot the flash for the interior. take the time to "take in" the ship. I regret now as I didn't have much time to do that and I've seen the ship basically through my camera lens. With that said I wish you a great visit.
 
 
Here are some more progress pictures on my model Still working on the forecastle, but closing in fast.
 
Regards Alexandru