augie

Thanks Kevin,  For those not familiar with Studding Sails (Stuns'ls), the following should clarify.
 
  Studding Sails
 
Studding Sail Boom
 
  Ship with Studding Sails deployed.
 
Cheers, Gil
 
 

Hello again friends, here is where the Morgan is currently. Masting and Rigging is next. New progress will soon be reported.

Flag lockers look good to me Kevin - sometimes, just the suggestion of a detail is sufficient to create the illusion. Take a step back and look from a viewer's perspective - it looks great.

Ahoy Mates
 
Mark: The idiot club does have a lot of members. I am on the board. Really it isn't a horrible thing but does highlight why many prefer scratch. Having someone someones else do the  thinking (here it is Corel) does have it's drawbacks. 
 
Back to the Build 
 
Speaking of idiots and the things that can occur when they think 
 
I am always trying to learn and perhaps I have too much fascination for the working of the world. With this in mind; I have decided to try and take advantage of this situation to better understand the dynamics of hull shape and plank direction 
 
Here it is more filler shape as it seems the hull shape is fine. See pic 1. The sweep of the plank as it lies on the bulkheads is excellent. I used my mounted pencil jig and marked the hull where the last Wale plank should be. Where it follows the contour I designed in my fillers "not so good". My pencil jig allows me to achieve a much higher level of accuracy then the method I previously used. This is highlighted where I marked the false cannon support which I now see is 2mm too high. We will let this slide.  
 
As this is just the first layer of planking I have room to play and play we will 
 
In the stern you can see I need to make an adjustment to get the plank to come up more as it wraps around the filler 
 
In the bow i have the exact opposite. The plank needs to come down a bit to hit its mark. I tried "brute force" and the plank started to clinker. Where as i could buy some Walnut sheets and spile these planks on the second planking I want to see if I can make some adjustments to my fillers and correct this. I also have some room here. I can make minor changes when I sand this first layer to alter the direction of next layer of planks.
 
The last pic shows I still have a ways to go learning to sand. While sanding the deck to match the outline of the bulkheads I beefcaked the bulkheads and now need to repair them. When will I learn "not" to do this "lol" 

good evening everyone
 
One very dusty looking build, lol you dont see the dust in the daylight
Foredeck cannonades completed and rigged, still finish of the loose end and create coils
flag locker, now has some simulated flags in place, but look a bit bright, in fact they look like rolled up card, which is exactly what they are
hammock cranes being put in, 

The cannons are 30 gauge wire I got from a hobby store.  It was already painted black.     
 
That statement helps to put things in perspective !!!   

Just for the record, 91% Isopropanol is available at good old Wal Mart (as is the 70% version).

I'm really just speculating but the alcohols we commonly use for modeling (methanol, ethanol, isopropyl) have a tremendous affinity for water.  By soaking the wood in alcohol, that alcohol probably combines with the natural moisture in the wood (giving the softening effect).  But when it dries, the alcohol will take some of that natural water with it making the wood brittle.  If the wood sits around for a (long) time at ambient conditions, it will eventually re-equilibrate at it's 'normal' moisture content and come back to normal.  But the whole process is subject to so many variables (type of wood, original moisture content, type of alcohol, soaking time, ambient conditions during drying) that I doubt it could be used reliably for any specific purpose.

By the way, I bought a Constructo  model because I wanted to see the Consttution all in natural woods with no paint. I personlly wanted to be able to look at each and every plank I labored so hard to install.

One more step and he will be out of the taller grasses. I considered putting the scout on a horse but decided against it - I didn't want to make a horse.

I'd start with a soft cloth and the right solvent for each glue (alcohol for PVA and acetone for CA).  Wipe carefully and don't let it soak into the wood as it might loosen the planks.  If that fails, sand.
 
When gluing with PVA, use a cotton swab or a cloth soaked in water to remove the excess glue.  CA need acetone.

Wishing you good luck here, JP.  I think the rabbet into the keel post would have been the way to go but I'm sure you can hammer this out.

Wishing you good luck here, JP.  I think the rabbet into the keel post would have been the way to go but I'm sure you can hammer this out.

Today is HAPPY ANNIVERSARY  day.
 
One year, to the day, from the start of Confederacy.  Just over 650 hours in the log.
 
This being a special occasion, I'll suspend my usual rule of not posting until a step is complete to show where we are as of today.  The majority of the gun deck has been planked (Swiss Pear).  No sanding or finish yet....just swept up to remove the in-process debris.
 

 
Planking has been a slow process as I've been cutting hooked scarphs to butt up against the margin planks.  I hadn't done this in my previous models so it's been a learning curve.  Fortunately, it has been working out well and I have also bolstered my scrap pile in the process:
 

 
I must say I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.  Pear is like working with cast iron when compared to basswood but it holds a good edge.
 
I need to cut another dozen or so scarphs and fit the few remaining planks.  Then well do our treenailing, sanding and finishing.  Hope to have this all completed within the next few weeks.

Never let it be said that I kept Popeye waiting------
 
The installation of the gun deck has been completed
 
Just to review (since it's taken so long), the deck is Swiss Pear supplied by Jeff at HobbyMill.  Fantastically uniform material  -- BIG thanks to him.
The planks are all scale length of about 25 feet.  The meeting of the deck planks to the margin planks was carried out using hooked scarph joints.  I received some queries on these:
 

 
As I came to discover, Swiss Pear is pretty tough stuff but it holds an edge very well.  After going through several Social Security checks worth of Exacto blades, I came up with the following procedure:
 
A card stock template was carefully fitted into the spot to be filled and, using double-sided tape, attached to the plank.  The outline was then cut using a fine belt on a belt sander.  Takes a steady hand.  Given my aversion to power tools, I was surprised how well it worked.
 
So here are a series of photos showing the deck from different perspectives:
 

 
The treenailing was created using the 'drill and fill' method using #75 pin vise drills.  There are about 1200 holes (but who's counting).  The fill material is Hobbylite that I dyed with some acrylic paint to get just a tiny bit of contrast with the deck itself.  The entire deck was finished using the sequence of Minwax Pre-Stain followed by Natural stain, 2 coats of WOP and 2 coats of Testor's Clear Flat Acrylic:
 
 

 
 

 

 

 
A lot of this deck will be obscured by the partial upper decks and deck beams.
 
I need to do some touching up here and there on the ship and install some ladders in the hatchways.  At that point the shop will be closed for about a month as the Admiral and I are off to do some globetrotting  After that it will be on to the cannons.
 
Thanks to all for stopping by.  Enjoy the upcoming change of the Seasons !
 
 
 
 

Using water and ammonia may help.
Ammonia reacts with the lignin in wood, which is the adhesive material holding fibers together. After soaking the wood in a strong ammonia, bend it to the shape desired. As the ammonia evaporates the water in the air replaces it in the lignin and restores to original glue strength. This is smelly and some people do not like the smell.
In an industrial / commercial operation, wood is placed in a strong vacuum resistant chamber and the air withdrawn. This takes the moisture with it. Anhydrous ammonia is then introduced and allowed to penetrate. The wood is then bent and allowed to replace the ammonia with the water from the air.

Good to be back!  But from the looks of it I'll be reading for the next month to catch up to you all.  Thanks for all the good wishes ---- and the lantern!!!!
 
Checked in on Confed  and she looks fine but it will take a week to get back to the shipyard.  Glad I have this log to remind me where I am.

I neglected in my last update to explain how I am going to proceed from here. The kit was designed as a hull only Admiralty type model. As a result, all of the masting and rigging has to be done from scratch. My two primary references for this work will be AOTS Essex and Lees. I am confident that a representative job can be done this way. All of the blocks and rigging line will be from Syren (Chuck). The deadeyes are from Model Expo (I have a lot of them on hand). Some specialty items, such as the already done hearts, will be done from scratch.
 
The order of the work should be roughly as follows: the bowsprit (done); the lower masts and tops; the lower deadeyes and chains; complete the hull by doing the hammock netting; the lower standing rigging; the topmasts and jib boom and their standing rigging; the topgallant and royal masts and the flying jibboom and their standing rigging; the yards and the running rigging; the boats, anchors, lantern and any remaining undone items.
 
I've begun the lower mast work by starting on the tops. So far, I've made up the decking from holly strip and added the rims and other reinforcing pieces from holly and boxwood. i've also made up from boxwood and dry fitted the trestletrees and crosstrees. A lot of holes need to drilled and other parts such as railings need to be added. These assemblies will be painted black. Before finishing the tops, I will at least partially make the lower masts.
 
Bob

Good day in the shop.  Here are a few sequence shots of how I am building the tops with planked sides.
 
1st Pic....Split shot showing the block of pine wood as it is marked on both sides before being shaping into the form used to build the sides.  Note, the thickness of the block is exactly the height of the finished top.

 
2nd Pic.....After shaping the block and fitting the 16 vertical planks equally spaced around the form and beginning to fit the first row of planking.  Note the glue used to fit these vertical planks is diluted to facilitate removal later.  Also note, I have begun with the form placed upside down on a metal surface in order to keep the outer edges of the starting planks perfectly aligned.  Also note the alternating pattern of end cuts.

 
3rd Pic....The pattern of the planks is more evident showing the third row being fitted.  The joint gaps are desired as glue cavities for the outer vertical planks. 

 
4th Pic.... Split shot showing the removal of the block form with very course rasp bits.  
Note in the left shot, the outer "seam" at each of the 16 joints has been sanded flat to provide a good glue surface for the vertical planks.
Note in the right shot, the outer vertical planks have been fitted before final removal of the remaining pine form material.

 
5th pic.... There you are.  Ready for floor piece, knees, and top rail, to be fitted....not included herein.

Druxey,
 
That's what I'm thinking but based on the drawings and the number of guns, this port would need to used.    I need a time machine.
 
Ofencer,
 
No.. this is a frigate. There was a Licorne earlier but this one isn't it.   This Licorne was with Belle Poule in June, 1778.  Belle Poule escaped the English and went on to glory in it's famous battle.
 
There is a lot of confusion about Unicorn and Licorne.  This ship was taken into British service as HMS Licorne as the Unicorn name was already taken.  Mr. Delecroix helped to straighten me out on the history in my log that I had published as even certain web sites had it wrong.

Finally returning to model ships, with baby steps.  Most of the time devoted to the real ship preparing for winter. Someone mentioned earlier that I'd missed the studdingsail boom.  It was intentional, until the running rigging was completed.  The main studdingsail boom follows, while the foremast stun's'le boom may or may not be added depending on securing the anchors.
  Preparing the boom and hardware. Adding "Bolts" for the channel.

Booms tapered to approximately 3/4 the inner diameter.  Port Studdingsail boom.  Inner swivel and small tackle per McKay's drawings.
 
 
 

I missed that!  They make the guns look right at home.

Hi All,
 
When starting the planking I wondered about the waste, or maybe better put, the amount of wood needed
to plank the hull in this manner. I started with a 2" x 18" piece of wood and I was able to cut all the spilied
planks for both sides and still had wood left over. I was very pleased with this.
 
Now onto my impression of this style of planking a hull. In the words of my sweet granddaughter
.......OMG........ though time consuming it was soooooo much easier to lay the planks. No twisting and
bending and forcing them into place.
 
Here are pictures of both side rough sanded. Once the entire hull has been planked I will progressively
sand it down to 400 grit and then seal with wipe on poly.
 

 

 
On to the second belts!

Hi All,
 
Well in case you didn't notice I've been AWOL for a while now. August and the first week of September is really busy at work. 80 hours work weeks with no days off blah, blah blah. Boy that was no fun. I used to be able to do it no problem but now it kicks my butt. So it was work, sleep, dream of working on the Winnie and then back to work.  Once that was over  it was another week or so to catch up around the house with all the things that needed my attention.
 
So I've now looked at MSW and found 11 unread pages in the Kit Build Logs and 4 pages in the Scratch Build Logs. Not to mention, oops I just did, all the other topics!
 
So to all my friends out there I'm sorry I missed posting to your logs for the past 6 weeks and it may take another 6 weeks just to catch up.
 
Now that I've got my whining out of the way here is where I'm at.
 
I have not completed marking all of the bulkheads with the plank locations. That was over 1400 little pencil marks. I'm seeing little dashes in my sleep know.
 

 
I've now started on the planking and here you see my first attempt at spiling a plank. You can see the curve compared to a piece of strip wood.
 

 
 
Well I've now started the planking and will let you know how it goes.

She is REALLY coming together.  Have you considered adding just the breech lines to the cannon?