paul carruthers

On 11/14/2023 at 6:23 PM, Glenn-UK said:

Does the hairdryer warm air help the wax to flow thus smoothing out the thread more and perhaps also making the line less flexible?

Yes but the loss in flexibility is not an issue

I always pull my thread thro’ beeswax and then hit with a hair dryer when under tension, minimises the fluff.

Couldn’t bring myself to paint my sphinx

After all that planking I couldn’t bring myself to paint it lol.

16 hours ago, Kevin said:

one side in the correct colours,, although more coats are required, also the banding has gone a bit narrow at the bow above the cheeks, to be sorted 

If you have to enlarge the hole use a band of cartridge paper to hide the gap, it’s all painted black and will not be seen

I used a mini iron, the type used for covering model aircraft, I lightly wet the planks as per Chuck’s lateral bending method but I bent the planks into shape on the hull’s primary planking and held them in place with the iron,  it gave a good result.
I found chamfering the rear top of the planks essential to a tight fit.

21 hours ago, Kevin said:

good afternoon everyone

 

my build has somewhat ground to a halt for a while, my mum has been admitted into hospital having had a mild heart attack, and now has failed a Covid 19 test, 

here are the latest photo's taken

 

 

On 4/4/2023 at 5:34 PM, Kevin said:

No Glenn, i hope it will be better

It’s worth the effort in the long run.

What hides the dark centreline where the etched deck is joined?

Thanks, gives a real image of the size.

James, can you include a few shots of the full hull with your hand adjacent for size comparison, thanks.

If you divide cost by build time it’s not a huge amount of money, compare to golf club membership etc.

Mine warped too despite usin CA and clamping. 
I re-clamped it against a steel rule and removed most of the warp.

I’ve not posted for a bit, to be honest struggling with shaping the mast profiles but I’m getting there.

from the drawing hilited I’m struggling to understand the band running vertically, is it a metal strip?

thanks.

Well the boats are beyond my skills and patience I’m afraid, hopefully 3D printed options will be available.

James H must be applauded for completing these on the build for the manual.

3 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

That bow shot of the headworks looks good, and I like the white paint scheme of the wheel. 👍

 

As far as the masting is concerned, if you have a variable speed drill you can use it as a proxy lathe and hand sand any taper required, or if you're using square stock  the razor plane can be used to gradually round the  stick, finished off by hand sanding.

I don't imagine the lower masts will be too problematic because little if any taper is required, maybe some flattening for the cheeks. The tricky part will be keeping the masthead which is square in section true.

Were I doing it, I would cut around the base of the head using a razor saw 1mm deep,  glue a template of the square section on top of the dowel. Pare it down by degrees using a chisel or similar, and finish with sanding sticks, constantly checking the square.

 

The Topmasts are more tricky, having  an octagonal heel, square head, and flared hounds. On these I would personally start with square stock, as the rounding and tapering are easier to do, but if you're using round stock then a sharp chisel will be your friend. I would mark off each section using Tamiya tape, and begin with the rounding and tapering section between the heel and hounds.

 

B.E.

 

Thanks for that, I guess slow and measure is the best way as you recommend 

Any how to’s on mast shaping? I don’t have a lathe, only modelling tool I have is a proxon disc sander, razor plane and the usual sanding hand tools. Thanks

Update, ready to commence the small craft, look challenging.

Beautiful  build, well done.

Time for a break, my rudder gap is too large but I’ve not the courage to try and remedy at this point.

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

Thank you Nipper, Bob, and Kirby.

 

Post Seventy- nine

 

Fiddling in the Foc’sle

The forward end of the internal bow area can’t be  authentically represented as it is cut off by the kit bulkhead, a simplification of the kit design.

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This is painted black with areas of shading to hopefully give the impression of shadow in any view that may become apparent.

The Foc’sle deck will also need to have sufficient planking to mask this area from view.

This shot of the wonderful Winnie build by Rusty shows  how the very forward end of the Bow should look.

 

I have gone as  far as I can with the  basic modification by opening up the Bridle port and planking the internal area otherwise left unfinished.

One other practical modification is the addition of  manger boards running from the Bridle port to the Bowsprit stop.

Creation of these has to be done in conjunction with the Bowsprit stop, and the Fore Topsail sheet Bitts  against which they fix.

The Bowsprit also has to be considered in fitting the Bowsprit stop.

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This shot of Trincomalee  demonstrates the arrangement. The low manger boards can be seen (complete with curious goat)  and the square tenon of the Bowsprit.

Also of interest is the tackle for the Bridle port lid running beneath the deck beams.

 

In the kit the arrangement the stop is simplified with a  hole into which the Bowsprit fits.

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The  stop is faced with some 0.8mm pear and the tenon mortise cut.

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At the forward end the hole is adjusted to take the Bowsprit.

This is also a simplification as the tenon mortice only should run thro’ the stop, but the effect should look the same.

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The tenon in the heel of the Bowsprit slots into the stop.

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From forward.

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I ensure that the Bowsprit slides smoothly into place with the minimum of effort.

This will be visible thro’ the un-planked  beams.

 

In my next post I will be looking at Manger Boards.

 

B.E.

12/02/22

 

 

 

Great model build, You’ve probably thought of this but I’d sort the cat heads now, I’ve limited experience and I’m following the manual, which is great but I found fitting them as per the manual difficult 

Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback, people are well aware that we are usually very critical of our own work and all the thumbs and comments are really appreciated.

A little more progress, a bit of fettling to get a good fit on the gunwales, and I’ve no idea why some pics are upside down

16 minutes ago, hollowneck said:

You caught the upside down "N" cock-up - Good! Glad you fixed the "X" too...🤣...

Very nice work. This is an advanced kit build and you're doing a great job for only your second wooden model ship.

 

Appreciated

32 minutes ago, James H said:

Lord knows how I missed this topic. 

 

You really are doing a darn fine job of her. She's looking real nice, and that ain't just an 'attaboy' either. 💯

Thanks!