popeye the sailor

well.....it looks good, no matter how you slice it

as I've said.......when it comes to the model medium as a whole......train modeling has always stood alone. it's kinda funny too......planes boats and cars have seemed to jumble together......techniques and styles....and even the materials used. train modeling uses pretty much the same in materials and paint, and most if not all of the techniques are transferable and applicable to all mediums as well. articles I've read haven't really put a finger as to why this is so. the only reason that I can think of, is history and the roll that trains played in the modernization process. I'm a nostalgia nut.......the older the kit, the more it peaks my interest. Ambroid has been around for some time, and when I came in possession of the snow plow, I did some digging to find out when it was produced. around 1955 is my best conclusion. I've seen some of the more modern kits, the metal construction does make them look so much better. time has past since I started to write this.......the admiral finally goaded me into pulling the lights down from the garage. that led me to starting to rearrange the garage, since I had to bring my tool box home from the shop....they supply all our tools now. I got some of it done....it became daunting when I opened the drawers for the first time, since it made the trailer ride back home............all the tools are mixed up and shuffled to the back of the drawers! just as well, I guess........I need to rearrange them anyway, now that I have the extra room {tool space}. I hope you post some of the processes in creating your train pieces....I think it would be interesting

very nice progress J........I've found silver to be a bear...well, any metallic really.......in regards to finger prints. best thing I've found is to give them a light coat of clear lacquer or enamel. look'in really good!

you'll have to pardon me Ken...I'm not in the know about tapping metal parts....I'm not a big fan of metal parts either. but the reason for tapping the holes would be to fasten another part via a screw....how would the hole be seen? it's something I thought might be a good idea........not that I've done it as a practice this also goes for the scuttle butt information I've gathered about resin....I've heard that it's a bear to work with, unless one is experienced with it. since I'm a confirmed enamel user, I have little experience with acrylics or other brands of paint. this is good new to me though, because I have a resin Batman and Robin to paint I'll draw a bath for them right away! I've never owned an expensive airbrush outfit.......using the outfits sold by Testor's mainly. I feel that it's mostly the experience of the modeler that will dictate how the airbrush will perform. true, there are some that don't have the ability to paint fine lines and various functions, but as creative folks have reported, there are work arounds. here is a link to a friend on mine, who has tried many different types of airbrushes. perhaps there is something here that might interest you: Don's Airbrush Tips

hello Michael.......finally caught up to your log good to hear that your wrist is better.........shows with the mileage you've put on your log you've added some really great detail and looks even better when lit! glad to see your back at the table

whoa! ........you've made some progress! so good to see you've been able to get to the table congratz on you marriage! look'in forward in see the sails in place.

thanks J.....Alan has quite a few interesting blogs and articles on his site. odd that I didn't see this one these kits are quite versatile really....even the wood kits can be modified to create other known ships, as long as their construction and type are similar. the article is very true.......there are a number of minor problems with it........mainly due to the age of the molds. I forgot to mention that the part numbers are hard to read.......I kinda laughed when I read that I haven't been sloughing off on the General though........between cleaning the flared and flashy mating surfaces, I have been able to assemble some of the parts I have done and painted. I should have more on him soon thanks for waking me up

they do carry graffiti decals for HO scale trains....I got a few train sites bookmarked that have them

she's done! in spite of all the problems you had, she looks great! the reddish headlights.........you can call her The Werewolf these bodies were perfect to base a gasser on........the pug rear quarters is the defining touch. really nice looking car 👀 🏁 I've gotten two kits that sported the reddish tinted glass.......still got 'em in the spare parts box I started

the seams are my biggest peeve.........the older the molds, the worse they are. I'm going through a nasty bout with the train good to see the start of this fine model J.........I love the biplanes! the truss wires can be tricky, but when all is done, they are worth the effort. looks really good!

perhaps the reason for metal castings, is that one could tap drilled holes and use screws to assemble it. Micro Mark sells an assortment of tiny screws. resin is aimed at the more experienced modeler......it can be unforgiving if the correct cement isn't used. paint is another issue

hello Ken.........so glad you decided to show some of your work very nice! I've always wanted to start a layout, but time has been an issue. I see the older Ambroid kits out there and am tempted to pick up a few more........but then I think of the snow plow and stop short. I really don't need any more skeletons in the closet who knows......maybe once I can retire {major pipe dream}. do you have any that your currently working on? perhaps a log might be in the future?

........I'll see what I can do

I'd be delighted to wait don't leave us in the dark!

thanks J........I was just tinkering with the differential. I may have to remove a bit more in the engine well......I'm toss'in a v8 in there. I'm also beginning to have doubts about the steering.......the engine is definitely going to be in the way. I may have to do something cheeky with it ....or dummy it up it's still early..........we'll see. I need to get the frame and drive train assembled, so I can see what needs to be done. gonna try and take a better look at that corvair engine...........you've peaked my interest now thanks for following along........and thanks for those who hit the like button!

I got an e-mail advertisement from one of the places I browse.........look in the model kits area.......I think it's the Macron, but in the wrong scale autoworldstore@dlisys.com paste it in your browser

I managed to get more done.......errands took up the afternoon. after figuring out where the engine should be.......I made up some mounts for it. this part is a cross member for the front suspension, that would be in the way of the oil pan. cemented on both sides of the frame, they were sanded to accept the engine block. there is enough room for the drive belt and the fan......the radiator fit on the front of the cross member. I had cemented the spring on the rear differential, but I see that there is a problem here. the spring need to sit forward and at an angle, to make up for when the drive shaft is connected to the transmission. I'll adjust it later. rather than cut the tail shaft off of the trans, I'll cut the drive shaft down to length. there too much of a mismatch there....seem the best thing to do. I did paint some of the window maker on the backs of the windows.......it worked about half way. they are clear, but the 'frosting' can still be seen. I remove them all from the tape......exposing the back sides to the air hastened the drying time. they look a lot better in that respect this is the differential as it sits now. I cut off the pin at the front of the drive shaft and drilled a hole for the tail shaft to locate into. then I cut off the spring, cleaned everything up, and relocated the spring forward and at an angle, so that when the front of the drive shaft is connected to the trans, the spring will sit perpendicular to the frame. now I need to shorten the drive shaft about a half an inch. I will wait till the engine is cemented in place, so it won't move as I get the measurement right. as for the front suspension.......the tie rod and drag link has been added, and stabilizer bars have been added. another part that had to be modified. the frame had also been painted...... the engine well has been widened.......cutting out the splash guards that were on both sides of the well itself. I left off on this , trying to fit the fire wall. there is no 'give' to the body.......so this makes it harder to do. but I will get it in there. I think I should get the seat in place first though........I may not be able to remove the fire wall once I fit it in minor problems..........gotta love 'em!

looks like an interesting kit.......post the link so others can see it it may peak their interest too! I finally took the parts out of the brake fluid.........it looked like where I had painted wasn't affected... the badge that goes on the front of the smoke box was entirely stripped.......a little scrubbing on the back was all it needed. this part will get painted in three different colors....the sand dome behind it will be painted yellow. I use Dawn dish washing liquid to do this....after all.........Dawn takes grease....out of the way! I did find out differently about the paint on the stream dome......once in the water and I messed around with it, it came right off. now, outside of the tub of soapy water and the faucet, these are all the tools I use.........a stiff wire brush and a pair of long tweezers the end result after they have been washed and dried....be sure to let them air dry as well, before painting them. again.......if your rinsing them in the sink....remember to put some sort of fine mesh strainer in the drain.........or you'll stand a chance to loose small parts now I can clean up the stream dome and get rid of those nasty lines!

there are dirigible kits out there.........likely not a lot of parts. they were filled with air {helium} why not display it from the trapeze on the plane?

hello Greg........thanks for the kind word don't get me wrong.........in spite of having to clean up the parts, it's not a bad kit. I think if you have the original kit, you might not have such a trying time. the molds are old and probably need some retooling. then again, I'm not a big fan of mold lines and injection pin marks....don't think anyone is I thought as much Ron........really don't think there was that much 'glitz' with these older trains I have to add them later anyways........decals will cover some of the holes and they need to be opened up afterwards. thanks for confirming that ........and look'in in

thanks CDW........I've been working on the frame at the moment, getting the drive train figured out. already figured out that I need to widen the engine well. the worst part will be the steering column... thanks for the good word

pencil me in on that one no one could have that bad a rep..........Hobby Craft has them beat! the plastic was too thick and poor fit......I built their Fokker Dr 1 {I had to modify the fit of the middle wing}. cool kit.......never heard of them before.

I'm back and fourth on it J.........I though this would be a quick little ditty........who would have known I'd go overboard! I found a place that shows all the firing orders, but then again I also have repair manuals I can refer to. the progress must miss me terribly..........I've had urges to go in the other room and work on her.......probably the reason why I spun off on such a strange journey. I'm not crazy......I just suffer from over activity I've been standing in the middle of the see-saw long enough. any one step will either hinder or make the next mode harder. as was said during the second world war........this was a defining moment. I had trimmed the long tab off the mating surface on one of the fenders........I did the same to the other one. I know that I will need to make a few more mods to the fenders, but I stuck them on anyway. now that they are part of the model, perhaps I can figure thing out better. the partial frame under the body denoted how they were to be attached. this will make it a bit harder to add the firewall.......I may also need to remove the areas on both sides of the engine well, to widen it. now that the fenders are on, I can add a few more cross members under the body. I will add the rest {2} when I cut out for the transmission. I've marked out for the firewall {where it will sit}, so I can assemble the cover on the body floor, and cut out the extra stuff later. as for the seat, I added the front part and a couple legs to keep it level. once painted, I don't think it will look too shabby. I have room to move it back, if I need to........that's a relief! then the bottom got some paint. I still need to paint the top red.......I then turned to the frame. the engine needs to sit far enough back to leave ample room for the fan/radiator relationship. I tried to add the support bars for the front suspension, but the oil pan changed all that....I'll have to do something different. the drive train/differential is still in the balance, until the engine is decided. I hadn't done it yet......but I finally took a look at the decal sheet. oh yea! they will really dress her up nice I'll hold off on any sort of pictures 'till the end, when I go through that process. I also went online looking for images of past Coke logos.........but after seeing the sheet, it was a waste of time. the portholes are another dilemma........the first test is almost ready to inspect. they are stuck to a piece of tape and filled with the window maker. in the back of my mind, I know that when tape is peeled off the roll, it adopts a rough texture, until it is applied to whatever surface your using it on. but, I've used it here as a seal for the porthole edges, so the window maker doesn't ooze out. clear and dry in the middle........it can be seen that it is still whitish around the brass. I know what your thinking...........your thinking "but Den.......there's only three of them here?!?!? where's the fourth one?" the answer is.........I couldn't wait as with all skeptics and most children {even though you've told them no}, curiosity killed the cat, and I pulled one off. to show you just how clear this stuff dries, I laid it on the instructions. the 'glass' does look a little rough........taking on the texture of the tape, I wonder if I could clean it up by painting some over the inner surface. I will try it....what could it hurt? the second Idea I had, was to lay out some plastic wrap, pinning it so it had no wrinkles. one could go under the assumption that the brass porthole is heavy enough to prevent the oozing, or they could be held in place with thumb tacks....and then filled with the window maker. whoa........too much thought..........I gotta go take a nap! 😫

air brush will be your best friend, once you get used to it I was sick too a couple of weeks ago, so I deeply sympathy with you. no modeling for me either. rest up and get better.........to keep yourself from being a bump on a log, getting the metal mold line to go away will take some time

I built the Revell kit way back in the 80's............didn't come out nothing like your though very nice work....she looks splendid!