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glbarlow

NRG Member
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About glbarlow

  • Birthday October 30

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Dallas, Texas
  • Interests
    Photography, Modeling

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  1. I should have mentioned the ones from Model Expo often seem like they come out of the discarded bin. Brass takes me back to my military days, the slightest tarnish wasn’t tolerated. I used Brasso and a soft cloth to quickly and easily bring back the bright color that’s always there somewhere. Nice work with the turning and filing, the model and stand integrate perfectly. I've used that wood base on all my models other than Winchelsea, I never had one arrived stained, glad it’s a color you like. Now I recommend adding a small engraved brass plate, I include model name, my name and the month/year I completed it (so when I’m old I’ll remember it was me that built it😂🤣 You’ve build a great version of Cheerful, really excellent work.
  2. I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.
  3. Hello Glen

    It's been awhile since I've checked in and need help. Mast coat is my next step and reading logs you mentioned @DelF as one to look at for help in you post #429 page 15. Could you forward the post where @DelF described his method?

    Many thanks and your posts are amazing making great late night reading.

    Willi

    1. glbarlow

      glbarlow

      Sorry I really don’t know how to find that particular reference other than paging through his log.

    2. glbarlow

      glbarlow

      I did describe my method, based on Delf’s, in my Cheerful log, should be pretty easy to find. 

  4. The included rigging are very simplistic and underdone. I found this book very useful, and specifics to fore and aft craft including cutters. It isn’t overly difficult and does help spice up the model. Plus good learning exercise. Rigging: Fore and Aft Craft. Lennarth Petersson. I found it on Amazon.
  5. You’re doing quite well with your first model. The breaching lines are enough for such a small model, the effect is there. I’d encourage you to make your own eyelets and ring bolts using the 24 gauge wire (what you have is correct). The result is such an improvement over commercial versions. I made hundreds for Cheerful and Winchelsea, in one way it’s tedious and another therapeutic and in all ways a skill worth learning. I attempt to describe the process in my logs. Give it a try, you’ll start by making 10 to keep 5, but production improves with practice.
  6. Definitely wouldn’t leave it as is, it would always bother you. I’d either up removing it and repairing any damage, something I’ve done more than I like. The sanding, heavily taping above and below the wale, seems like a good option as well.
  7. Those beams are fun, nice progress. Getting them level and parallel is crucial, lots of test fitting. Look ahead in instructions to see how several of the forecastle beams have to ultimately be positioned. Maybe in a future chapter. Glad to see you’re enjoying it, I kinda miss working on mine.
  8. Typically the first marking is with a wider plank, I’ve never had this as an issue.
  9. Absolutely, it is good practice. lining off is tedious but the results is worth it. It applies to any and all wood model ship hulls. Nothing detrimental or any impact at all on the rest of the model. Kit instructions would never cover anything of this detail and seldom offer any help at all on planking.
  10. That’s a rally big model ship….which is what this forum is for I thought.
  11. The two sides at once is a good idea, after coppering one side of Vanguard I stopped modelling for three years in avoidance of doing the other side. Haven’t coppered anything since. I like the square tuck. Probably like you I’ve been fascinated by them ever since Cheerful.
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