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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. glbarlow
    An 18/0 brush for these small touch ups is your friend.
  2. glbarlow
    Your deck fittings are superb, really nice work. Those small details may not show on their own but collectively they add a great deal of professionalism to the overall look. They help make it all come alive. Like Derek I’ll be stealing, I mean adapting many of these to Flirt when I get to her. Well done!
  3. glbarlow
    Not sure about all the harsh judgements and concerns about accuracy, seems silly. It’s a movie. They used the USS Bainbridge because it was available for filming. It’s a 98 minute streaming movie, of course there is CGI involved. I read the book recently, it was not as good as the movie. The movie is an exceptionally well told tale about leadership under extreme pressure, if you missed that point I suggest you watch it again.
  4. glbarlow
    It’s a streaming movie, there aren’t going to be any DVDs. Do they still make those. Movies made for streaming services won’t appear on network TV, not how it works.
  5. glbarlow
    I’ll of course start a build log when the time comes but a few first look observations: -It arrived just a few after being shipped, no delays with UPS -the shipping sleeve is thick and sturdy, no dents from crossing the Atlantic. - more bubble wrap inside the kit box preventing anything from sliding around -everything inside in multiple sealed plastic bags grouped by instructions and plan, strip wood, boxes for the pear wood blocks, which look extremely sharp, detailed, and well made. -The lasered parts look soo much better than any kit I’ve ever seen. And of course everything is boxwood. I don’t know how many of the 18 Master shipwright Editions are left, I highly recommend getting one.
  6. glbarlow
    Well this is pretty cool. I’m honored to have kit number 1 of Vanguard Model’s HMS Flirt Master Shipwrights Edition Thanks Chris for including the nice lasered board! Everything inside the box is such high quality. I’ve never seen so much boxwood. Very nice! Admiral Cochrane also approves
  7. glbarlow
    The basket is next level, I agree with Yves, now you need carved wooden herrings 😂🤣
  8. glbarlow
    Now you’ve set the standard for the rest of us. Really exceptional job of it!
  9. glbarlow
    Either by making a copy of the items, cutting them out and attaching them to the wood with some rubber cement and cutting out the wood from there, using tracing paper to make a template, or taking the measurements with a ruler or digital calipers And transferring that. All assuming the plans are to scale. There must be different versions of POB, I didn’t have to do any of that. Not going to be a common kit or a easy first build. Hopefully you can find a build log of someone using this same version of the kit and follow along.
  10. glbarlow
    These kits really aren't designed for single planking, the bulkheads are further apart (and less of them) than a single planked model. If this is your first model that'd be a stretch to pull off. The double planking gives you a much better looking hull when you're done. Yes, between the 2nd and third bulkhead and yes you'd fair the hull with it already there to ensure a smooth flow of the planks. If you haven't planked one before be sure to look around on the forum for a process that works for you. Bending and tapering planks to conform to the bow and the flow of the hull is both a process and a learned skill.. Both my Cheerful and Lady Nelson build logs explain the process I use, but there are many ways to do it.
  11. glbarlow
    I’m concerned your used kit may be missing parts, POB was one of my earliest models, I didn’t have to scratch build anything. The plans should include a sheet that shows all the parts boards and the instructions should include a list of parts, Have you done a complete inventory? Photos in other build logs should give you an idea about the stern, I know my completed model is not that square. One thing about models, no matter the plans every stern winds up being unique For the first planking you should start at the top and work your way down. I stop with 4-5 rows to go and instal from the garboard up. That area between isn’t visible once mounted so mistakes and filler can be handled there. For the second planking you can also start at the top, but common practice is to first place the first layer of the Wales (those reference marks maybe?) work up to the sheer, then down. The cap rail shouldn’t go on until all planking is complete and you’ve sanded the sheer smooth. I don’t add the cap rail until the inner bulwarks are also complete and to cap it all off, see what I did there. You’ll appreciate filler between the 1st and 2nd bulkhead, it will make planking easier. Hope that helps.
  12. glbarlow
    Yay, Flirt is on the way
  13. glbarlow
    I don't think any more needs to be said. As you noted there were many variations and many conversions, its not a military vessel subject to exacting standards, just a simple fishing vessel. I would think it would be easy enough for a modeler to modify the size of the steering house to what suits them and be not less or more accurate than the design. I would have thought this was long resolved and fairly simple to follow. I agree, this is not the place to debate the merits of wheelhouse design. Moderators are welcome to delete my post. I don't mean to be argumentative, just a bit frustrated we can't seem to accept the model for what it is - a model.
  14. glbarlow
    Glue by the gallons...🤪
  15. glbarlow
    50 meters?😳
  16. glbarlow
    Exactly right. Hard to explain what’s best, generally the least possible for a tight dry fit. I needed some meat left so I could sand it smooth. Your drawings show that very well. Thanks for sharing those.
  17. glbarlow
    Those are good drawings and show what I inadequately was trying to say. My comment though is don’t be drawn in by the sharp angles shown. It is a feel thing, as I mentioned for the most part it’s more about knocking off that top back edge. I see no need for a hard angle. I actually tried to bevel one using my Byrnes sander. It did no go well. btw, I don’t have an endless supply of cedar. Pretty sure I’m going to have to order more. I’d just rather be happy with the result.
  18. glbarlow
    That’s a good idea.
  19. glbarlow
    I’m a bit hesitant on doing this. There are so many different ways and no doubt better ways I’m not sure my new experience is worth sharing. I don’t want my log to become a debate platform for alternative practices. I may just go about my new found method quietly sawing away.
  20. glbarlow
    Nice, but after Vanguard too big for me. Fortunately I think we’ll see Sphinx first. I can call it Royal Glenn.
  21. glbarlow
    Thanks BE, i appreciate your saying so. Indeed it is a nice model. Hopefully I’m still saying that after I sort out the square tuck.
  22. glbarlow
    Thank you. Yes the yellow cedar with wipe on poly produces a nice color. I’m Always surprised at how much the wop adds to the wood, and to how smooth the cedar becomes with sanding. Thank you for saying so. Actually the imperial measurement is still 3/64ths on my calipers. The amazing thing to me is how much variance, the 1.18-1.32mm, is still 3/64ths. The finish is Wipe On Poly, it really adds to the wood. I appreciate your comments. I feel like I give myself ample problems to have to think through 🤣
  23. glbarlow
    Don’t muddle my brain with new ways, I just got comfortable with this one😜 I’m comfortable this method, done correctly, produces planks with less than .1mm variance. Hard to beat that.
  24. glbarlow
    Glad to be of help as I’ve been helped by others. I’m sure you’ll enjoy building Cheerful, it’s a fun challenge
  25. glbarlow
    Taking on Winnie, that’s a big (literally) step up.

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