glbarlow

If you’re thinking about it at 2am, welcome to the obsessive modelers club I recommend planking your deck in the usual way, on the ship a plank at a time. Fit for one reason, but the bigger one is that edge gluing generally isn’t a good idea, hard not to wind up with glue stains You should try to true up the frame. Would putting thinner wood blocks close to the bulkhead frame do it? The way you have it, warping a bulkhead would likely cause an asymmetrical hull once it’s plank and a far less desirable look than the bow being off 1\16th. The bow being off that little probably won’t matter, definitely not as much as the hull not being equal. The rabbet at the keel should be enough that the first planking fits flush, but you’ll probably need to bevel the second planking to fit at the bow and keel. I’d leave the keel and stem on for planking but not the sternpost, much easier to run the planks bow to stern and cut them flush at the stern. The key step for the rabbit is at the stern. It needs to be thin enough so both first and second planking fit flush to the sternpost. Of course some of that is achieved by thinning the planks. Since you bought it used, if you haven’t already it would be a good idea to go through the parts list to make sure your not missing anything. I don’t recall any reference marks on my kit so I can’t help you there. I built this ship a long time ago, it’s a nice learning exercise, I hope you enjoy your build

I’m not at all precise about it. I soften the top back edge of the entire plank, beveling may be overselling it. I don’t put a hard 30 degree edge on it or anything, I find just rolling off the back edge works. I’m probably doing it wrong, but I don’t have any gaps and I would if I did nothing. I do check the fit as I go, the greater the curve (as in the roll of the stern, not the bow) the more the bevel. This plus the time bending a plank that almost lays to fit on its own before gluing has made a big difference for me.

Nice work, I agree with everyone. What a great job for a first time build!

Amazon I already checked.

Dang it, now I have to buy another Vanguard model. 😂🤣

Hey Garthog, In the past I sorted guessed by where the plank stopped lying flush with the one above it, that’s still true but I’d often guess wrong by a few millimeters either way which led to an inconsistent curve, I was always catching up on subsequent planks. Lining the hull takes out the guess work. The tick marks showed bulkhead 6 is a full width plank but from bulkhead 5 to the bow the tick marks showed sequentially less than full width, hence the taper start point. That may change on the second, lower belt of 10 rows, another good reason for the two belts, but it was true of the top eight. I also found by starting the taper at the same point, bh 6, I kept a nice curve. Not sure if that’s true for every model, but it is for Cheerful, the tick parks supported that. I am not perfect on my cuts. Every other plank I recheck the distance (in mm) from the last plank to the bottom tick park, my original tape mark for row 8, and divide by the number of remaining planks. Just me validating the tick marks, the measuring is more precise than just the pencil mark, a little perfectionist overkill probably. It doesn’t change the width of the plank at the bow much but it does some, it’s better to adjust as I go than to have a very wide or skinny plank 8. I really like this method. It’s tedious to do all the prep but it pays off. Hope that helps.

Whoops, crossed posts. I have added this to my reference folder. Any reason for fly fishing thread vs the common thread I steal from my wife? Great and informative posts. I’ve rigged lots of cannons, but this puts steps in a new light with clever techniques.

Truly excellent and the reference model for the rest of us. This is where I’ll come to see how to do mine.

Thanks Rusty. It could hitch a ride as cargo on your Winnie 🙂

I love frigates, I’m heavily on the 20-32 side. The bigger gun platforms don’t hold much charm for me. I can only rig so many cannons. I’m voting for Sphinx, one of your four choices, not an unlimited wish list.

I don’t think lime wood is much of a differentiator, but that’s just me. I’d pay (and have;-) for something better than what other kit manufacturers offer.

It’s all about the entrance 😁

I appreciate all the comments for my mis-labeled post. But let’s assume I’m a grown-up and understand the basics of machine shop safety. Also, I have no intention or need for any metal work. The two vices I have are specifically designed for my Proxxon mill and are highly rated by it’s users so I’m ok on that front too. I now have good examples of two ways, and can use both for more than just a trim ring - very cool stuff I agree I just need to get in there and cut something. Or maybe fly across the pond and buy a few beers at the pub for Derek -after- he shows me a few things (see, shop safety right there;-) But for now my focus is on finishing planking on Cheerful, I ripped 40-50 more yellow cedar planks last night and will likely need most of them to finish the hull. I’ve bookmarked this thread and will keep it handy. If anyone want to follow Derek and No Idea’s tutorials (Maybe an actual mast cap:-D) with their own please do. We’ll all benefit.

I haven’t seen any of the Cheerful builds this way, I think I’ll go with the “trim ring” however accurate it may or not be.

That’s real skill Derek, very nice work. So much there you’d never see in a straight up kit. I learn a lot from your well explained examples.

Very nice. What is the history of a ship like this. Very different (and interesting) from warships (and most common models) as gun platforms with 6 cannon and more space dedicated to what I guess are cabins?

I'm sure there are lots of opinions. Personally I've never cleaned the char from those. The glue will hold with the char there, it's somewhat a myth that it won't. I'd be more concerned about altering the fit if I sanded the bulkheads where they fit to the frame. You really want a tight fit. Sometimes you might have to sand a little to get that fit, but not to remove the char.

He hasn’t faired the hull yet, I imagine most of it will disappear then.

This is great Derek and exactly what I was looking for. Just something to learn a bit about the mill and I will eventually need this ring for Cheerful. Thank you for taking the time to detail it out. I understand about the dust, I ripped three sheets of planking strips, about 40-50 last, night. Lots of dust.

Yes, my lack of knowledge of nautical terms is a problem. I guess the proper term is trim ring at the base of the mast. I was just looking for a simple project for my mill, seems I chose the wrong thing. I don’t have and don’t plan to get a lathe, especially not until I’m less exposed for my ignorance of mills, and obviously nautical terms. Thanks everyone for your replies. I’ll figure something out for the trim ring.

I’m looking to create a little more ornate mast cap at the base of the mast on the deck. These all sound like nice ideas, but I’m not sure I follow the narrative description.

I think I need pictures...

The dividing attachment for the Proxxon FF 70 The Proxxon cutters and a selection of smaller ones. Using Yellow Cedar. Im sure your right, I’ll find a simpler way.

Thanks Ryland!

Had to decide between a mill and a lathe...now I want both😬