glbarlow

Thank you for your appreciated comment.

Thank you also for saying so. I’m glad to have been of help. I wrote this because I came across a confidence barrier myself and hoped to help others get past where I was just a short time ago.

Thank you! For recognizing that's what I'm doing. I appreciate your comment.

The point of standing to the side and the slight release to the rear of the fence prevents this from being an issue. I know or care nothing about full size table saws or even other hobby saws. I know the method I described works for me with my Byrnes saw. I use push sticks made from basswood, they are not super thin and they go right through the blade without problem and without splintering. I can make a new one in about 30 seconds. There will always be other opinions and practices, those are not any more right or wrong than any other. I do wish others would respect there are multiple ways that work and not assume only they are right. If it works for you do it your way, this way works for me. Since it’s based on others with more skill than me, including the maker of the saw itself, I’m comfortable with it being my way.

Thanks Derek, I'm glad you found it helpful. Opinions vary on whether it's built in or not - or on some models and not others. I can tell you on mine (which I've had a number of years now) I'd get kick back if I don't. And for what it's worth it was Jim himself that made this suggestion to me. I can't stress enough that it's just the smallest of amount before tightening the back screw.

Aren't you and I purists, who is more pure than us because they don't use CA? Just because contemporary models didn't use CA, because it didn't exist, doesn't make it any less a good solution. I've been using CA for planking since the first model I built over 20 years ago, they are all just fine. Using Chuck's plank bending and hull lining method there is no better option than CA. I don't understand any better reason for using glue other than CA, complicating an already complicated process - but that's me and that's just my opinion. I like CA, it is my friend, we really stick together through thick and thin 😄 I recommend you do a few searches about Chuck Passaro's lining the hull and plank bending technique. There are video and .pdf tutorials on the forum. Both my Lady Nelson and Cheerful build logs linked in my signature line touch on how I applied it. It was easy to learn and a major shift for me having built multiple models before I discovered it ( though I've always used CA). One other suggestion, you're pretty thin at the stern, may want to be careful to insure the width of your 2nd planking on both sides is equal to the width of the stern post. I also agree with Spy Glass regarding tapering - the same number of planks should terminate at both the bow and stern as there are at the waist of the ship. Chuck's lining the hull tutorial will show you how much to measure and cut to make that work. It's normally good to practice to also do that with your first planking, but at this point you have a good base for the 2nd planking and there is no reason to change it.

I’d suggest it gives “some” a better feel. I discovered the side block gave me a better feel, Again these are choices, I shared mine. I’d find flipping the board a good opportunity to mess up the cut. Options and alternatives are good, but none is necessarily better or worse. Adapting to whatever works for each of us individuals is the key.

According to who... The names I cited at the top of my post are all the references I need for it being my recommended way, not to mention it works for me. But as I said, there is always going to be other people with other ways that think theirs is best, doesn’t mean it’s the “right way” nor would I say it’s the “wrong way,” it’s just a choice.

Using additional clamps is good information to remember. I know how much good just adding the one helped me. I don’t do it often enough to get comfortable using just my hands.

I doubt many models need anything longer than 24.” For me the big objective is getting every plank neatly the thickness I want it to be, that’s where the technique helps me most.

Only that I think the longer it is the harder it is to cut consistently. 24 inch, like Jeff sold, is the max for me. I'm using 15" length stock from Syren for Cheerful and don't have a problem.

Thanks for pointing that out. - they didn't load the first time, I've added them.

Ripping planks I’ve been asked to do this a couple of times, I’ve been hesitant because there are undoubtedly many ways to do it and many people better at it than I am. If you prefer a different way, then you should do it that way. I can only say this way works for me. For example, Jim Byrnes tutorial is pinned to the top of this section. So, here is what I’ve learned about ripping planks from milled sheets. To be very clear, it’s what I’ve learned from asking questions, seeking help, and learning from others. I’ve adopted and amalgamated all that input into my own technique. That I can successfully turn milled sheets into planks comes from the gift of knowledge from many sources but especially @Chuck Passaro, @Rustyj, Jeff of HobbyMill fame, and from the guy that provides the perfect tool, Jim Byrnes of https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com I’m not going to insult anyone’s intelligence discussing shop safety. If you build models and own sharp tools, machine or otherwise you know how to use them and what to wear to keep your fingers and eyes. So, do those things if you do anything I describe here. This is my disclaimer. First the equipment. In my opinion there is no more essential and no better tool for ship modeling than the Byrnes saw. Far more than ripping planks, it is a precision instrument. There are plenty of posts on MSW about this saw, so go read those and then buy one. This saw is without peer, in my opinion. Please hold your replies on why another model saw is right for you. I respect your choice. Next is the blade - I’m sure there is more than one that will do the job, but all the people I have asked, including Jim Byrnes, say the same thing. The Thurston I-292, .030 kerf slitter blade. I understand Thurston is out of business, I’m sure there are equivalents if you can’t find one. Here’s what I use and how I do it. I start by cleaning the table and the blade with denatured or isopropyl alcohol. There are other methods, but keep the blade clean however you do it. I also on occasion wax the table with common car wax. I cut planks between the blade and the fence using the tall fence accessory from Byrnes. Probably the biggest breakthrough was Chuck’s coaching to stand to the side of the saw, not behind it. This photo shows my orientation to the saw when I cut. It’s amazing how much more natural it is and more control I obtained from this simple change. I use sacrificial push sticks. Just a square length of wood with a notch cut in it that I can push right through the blade. When it crumbles, I cut a new one. The side block is just a piece of wood. I glued the two pieces on top for a little more of a grip, it also serves as a finger guard. I sanded the side facing the milled stock square and as smooth as I could get it. The optimal length is 5 inches, Jeff describes why in a tutorial he wrote, I’ll just say it is the right length. The last bit of “equipment” is an ordinary clamp, and another reason for the tall Byrnes fence. With all this in hand I can start cutting. I start by setting the blade height so that the teeth at the high point are fully exposed above the wood being cut at the high point, but just barely. I can see the full depth of the top teeth above the wood, but just. With my blade, that equates to about 1/16th above the sheet. The point is to have the blade teeth at the peak just clear of the wood. There are technical reasons for this, mine is that this is where it cuts best. Don’t set it too high and adjust the blade every time to whatever thickness of wood you’re cutting. This is true of cross cuts as well. I set the fence distance to the blade to the thickness of the plank I want using an existing plank, digital calipers, ruler, or rip gauge. Sometimes this ends up being trial and error, I cut the first one and adjust accordingly. I set the fence at my desired width then fully tighten the front fence knob on the fence. Then, ever so slightly, push the rear of the fence away and tighten the rear fence screw to provide back taper. Push too much and the plank thickness won’t be consistent, too little and you get the ever-feared kickback. How much? I use the highly accurate measurement of ‘just a tad.’ It really takes just the lightest amount. Jim Byrnes suggests .005 inch, that’s not much. The side block, push stick, and top clamp in combination allow me to: Hold the sheet against the fence with side pressure (and not be tempted to use that hand to help push the wood, don’t do that, push only with the push stick), hold the sheet down on the table close to the blade, and push the sheet all the way through. I set the wood just behind the blade, use the clamp to press the wood down using the fence. I position the side block so that it covers the back of half of the blade and the rest holding the wood against the fence. As the sheet nears the end, I slide the block forward along with it as the last of it goes through the blade. This all comes with practice. The side block is a good example, I want just enough side pressure to keep the wood tight to the fence, too little and too much create problems - firm, but not forced, is the best I can describe it. You know if it’s too firm because you can’t push the wood, you know it was too light when your wood is not the thickness you measured. You know you weren’t consistent throughout the cut when you have one thickness at one side of the plank and something more or less than that at the other. It’s a feel thing you only get by doing it. I start the saw and push with the push stick oriented so, regardless of the width of stock I’m cutting, it remains more or less centered on the blade. I think of it as pushing both the plank being cut and the stock through together even as they separate. When this all works in concert the plank goes right through the blade and is pushed out the far side. I then reset everything, especially the clamp, for the next plank. I always keep checking to make I’m getting a consistent cut. Any number of things can create a variance. Too much or too little side pressure, Not keeping it clamped to the table with the top clamp (it will rise up on occasion), too much relief on the rear side of the fence. However, once I get going, I can rip off any number of consistent planks that are model worthy with little to no waste. I couldn’t do any of this six months ago, I would desperately try to find already cut planks if I wanted to do something other than the kit provided wood. Once I made the effort to ask for help, so plentiful and so freely given here on MSW, and started cutting I found out it’s not that hard. I was pretty proud of myself when Chuck’s directions for Cheerful called for wood cut to a thickness of 1/32nd of an inch, and I made that cut. Once I did that, I knew I was indeed a plank ripper. One last time. I know there are many ways, many other practices, and many expert wood workers on this site. This way works for me and I hope it helps some of you. Oh, and practice shop safety.

I too want to applaud Chris (and Chuck) for sharing and soliciting the input of others. I'm sure we all respect it is his nickel on the line when it comes time to make decisions. My input is its great to have a diverse line, and I agree not to have too many models that are essentially the same - the reverse side is an eclectic line up may have the reverse impact with buyers not seeking him out because they don't know what he does. I think Chris' philosophy of making models everyone can build with clear instructions, expert design, and quality laser cut material will set him apart, but that it should be a reasonably bracketed range of products. I think Chris is doing this by a time period of sailing ships, so that makes sense to me.

I want to re-register my vote for a small frigate like Sphinx. The big 40’s are gun platforms and while they may have history, they are readily available and don’t have much character. The perhaps lessor know and smaller frigates aren’t targets of the big manufacturers and are more unique to build, because they were unique when they existed. I mean how many gun carriages do we need to make. At some point British ships became a bit cookie cutter. Admittedly I say this with Pegasus and Vanguard already displayed on my shelves, but I think a model that doesn’t take two-three years to build has an audience, at least this audience member. I don’t want to sort out many more 4 pounders like Speedy and Flirt, and I get it about carronades even if they aren’t as sexy as 12 pounders. So a 20 gun range frigate is my recommendation. I liked building Granado, the bomb ship deck mortars have character and were interesting to build as another example.

Of course, that’s why l look for a source of milled sheet stock. It used to be easy to find.

No, not really. With my Byrnes saw and the right blade I can get really nice planks as I’ve been doing with my Cheerful build.

Splinting a bulkhead is an opportunity many of us have had, with your fix it will be stronger than before. Adapt, improvise, and overcome. With homage to Clint Eastwood that’s my modelers creed. btw, thanks for the link on boxwood. Unfortunately I need it in a more finished state, buying it like Derek in 1-6mm thicknesses. I can rip planks, but not reduce thickness.

I’ll once again enjoy watching you taking one of Chris Watten’s already excellent designs to the next level. I like the idea of these smaller simpler models we can finish in a few months. I say that as I just now get close to planking the final 9 planks on my Cheerful’s hull knowing how far I have to go yet. Speaking of which is that a plan of Cheerful on the right wall? I have the NMM print, just need a frame shop to reopen.

I have my master Shipwright version of Flirt to build after Cheerful, but that’s a long time from now. By then there will be lots of build logs for me to consult. Looking forward to seeing your progress. I sent an email to Timberline asking them if they’d ship to the US, didn’t even get a reply so I guess that’s a no

I do, the first copy of the Master Shipwright version. It will be waiting for me after I complete Cheerful, still have a long way to go.

Glad to see Flirt underway!

I’ll get one after both of you start on your own Cheerful 😀

A decision you won't regret - its a challenge, and a joy.

Your great work is tempting me to get myself one....