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glbarlow

NRG Member
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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. I assume this is one of challenges of the US and the UK sharing English as a common language when you say Chamfer. So I did a l a quick Google search: “A chamfer is a transitional edge between two faces of an object. It is often created at a 45° angle between two adjoining right-angled faces. Bevel - the angle that one surface or line makes with another when they are not at right angles. A ‘chamfer’ may sometimes be regarded as a type of ‘bevel,’ and the terms are often used interchangeably.“ So I guess Americans say bevel, English say chamfer.
  2. The challenge is 1/32 thickness and the matching “ears” at the bow. I’m sure I’ll sort it out. I appreciate everyone’s input
  3. I've ordered them, they'll be here Wednesday and then I'll see how it goes. I have brass plate (I've got a hacksaw blade and a razor too I can try) I've cut profiles with my files, but have not got that right yet. I'll definitely experiment with all the options to figure out what works. Thanks for the note, not happy to hear the scrapers didn't work for you, they seem like such a good option. I think anything on 1/32 thick wood is going to be a fun challenge.
  4. May I suggest you should've started that sooner so all the planks at the bow were more or less the same width, just as they are the same width at midships, it creates a more natural look. I'd think you'll also need to do some plank bending to fit the curve. I've recommended Chuck's method in the past and I recall others have offered other methods, whichever you choose the sooner you start that the better. Don't over-bevel the top edges, it doesn't take much, just softening the corner is enough.If you do it all right you won't need the filler 😄
  5. I’m guessing you did much of the fairing “off ship?” I know Chris recommends doing this. But if I’m right the lesson learned is other than a start the best place to fair bulkheads is installed on the frame. Otherwise I’m noT sure how that one is off by that much.
  6. Pretty sure you need taper in those planks at the bow , full size planks won’t fit all the way down the bow. Have you checked out Delk’s Speedy build for comparison?
  7. Well, I guess that saves me an international call. That's too bad, whatever CITES is, its not good for me. Thanks for sharing this, I missed that entirely.
  8. I've quit bookmarking your log, I'll just have to read the whole thing when I start Flirt - so many innovative ideas. You're right about widely varying prices. Amazon has one for $54 and one that looks just like it for $132, I found one tool company selling it for $665. I've sent a note to your linked company. It cost the least there but the shipping could make the Amazon one a better deal. They wouldn't even quote shipping, they had a pop-up screen sayingI had to send them an email to enquire about shipping. At any rate, this is an ingenious device to solve a problem I've had since my first model, drilling holes in round objects - I'll get it one way or another. Thanks once again for the detail in your log and sharing your clever approach to these. Now IF I could just find a source for the small sized boxwood for making these masts.... I tried your supplier, they didn't even respond to my email asking about shipping to the US. I've lost the link, could you provide it again please. Maybe I'll call them during UK business hours and beg.
  9. Is the angle of your rear bulkhead the same as in James’s photo of his production model? Can’t exactly tell but looks like his has a more pronounced tilt.
  10. Can’t go wrong. Boxwood does look good...but so does pear. So I’m officially no help except I agree holly is out.
  11. Even your test planking is quality work. I like the deck light than the hull, the AYC looks amazing, but I have a current bias for that wood. I’m sure whatever you choose it will look great.
  12. I’m also a photographer. Not sure what you’re using, but it’s about the focus point. If using auto focus on a camera switch to single point focus and move the focus box around and on your subject, half click the shutter to get the focus then snap it. Auto focus makes a decision on what it thinks the focus is, and it’s wrong a lot. If an iPhone touch the subject on your phone screen, it will focus there signified by a yellow box. I imagine androids have something similar. Great work on the mast and spars. I’ll outsource mine to you.
  13. Well I drive an SUV, so there you go 😀 I’m trying to learn to like fishing craft, it’s a process. BE’s logs are a great way to learn to love them.
  14. Nice explanation of the work BE. You have some serious clothes pins there. I know you’ll turn it in to something great, but I’m not sure I like the lines of this as much as Fifie. I likely will regret that comment about 9 pages into this log as you bring it to life.
  15. Nice. I was, or maybe still will, try this with my Proxxon mill. What jig did you use to hold/feed the wood, can you do a little write up of your process like Bob did for tree nailing.
  16. I ordered both from a US based hobby store, who knew those still existed. I appreciate the reference to this and I’m sure others will as well. I have a brass plate and have fiddled a bit with getting a decent profile, I’m sure I’d get that to work eventually. “Bob’s moulding tool” should make the job much easier and with better looking profiles.👍🏻
  17. Who could possibly condemn such amazing work. Carving by hand is no more skill, and probably less, than mastering CNC as you have.
  18. Ordered. Hope they’ll work on my small wood. Thanks for the suggestion.
  19. Thanks for the explanation Bob. I put some planks on my broken frame and will see how it goes and then decide. That scraper looks great. Thanks for sharing that.
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