glbarlow

These kits really aren't designed for single planking, the bulkheads are further apart (and less of them) than a single planked model. If this is your first model that'd be a stretch to pull off. The double planking gives you a much better looking hull when you're done. Yes, between the 2nd and third bulkhead and yes you'd fair the hull with it already there to ensure a smooth flow of the planks. If you haven't planked one before be sure to look around on the forum for a process that works for you. Bending and tapering planks to conform to the bow and the flow of the hull is both a process and a learned skill.. Both my Cheerful and Lady Nelson build logs explain the process I use, but there are many ways to do it.

I’m concerned your used kit may be missing parts, POB was one of my earliest models, I didn’t have to scratch build anything. The plans should include a sheet that shows all the parts boards and the instructions should include a list of parts, Have you done a complete inventory? Photos in other build logs should give you an idea about the stern, I know my completed model is not that square. One thing about models, no matter the plans every stern winds up being unique For the first planking you should start at the top and work your way down. I stop with 4-5 rows to go and instal from the garboard up. That area between isn’t visible once mounted so mistakes and filler can be handled there. For the second planking you can also start at the top, but common practice is to first place the first layer of the Wales (those reference marks maybe?) work up to the sheer, then down. The cap rail shouldn’t go on until all planking is complete and you’ve sanded the sheer smooth. I don’t add the cap rail until the inner bulwarks are also complete and to cap it all off, see what I did there. You’ll appreciate filler between the 1st and 2nd bulkhead, it will make planking easier. Hope that helps.

Yay, Flirt is on the way

I don't think any more needs to be said. As you noted there were many variations and many conversions, its not a military vessel subject to exacting standards, just a simple fishing vessel. I would think it would be easy enough for a modeler to modify the size of the steering house to what suits them and be not less or more accurate than the design. I would have thought this was long resolved and fairly simple to follow. I agree, this is not the place to debate the merits of wheelhouse design. Moderators are welcome to delete my post. I don't mean to be argumentative, just a bit frustrated we can't seem to accept the model for what it is - a model.

Glue by the gallons...🤪

50 meters?😳

Exactly right. Hard to explain what’s best, generally the least possible for a tight dry fit. I needed some meat left so I could sand it smooth. Your drawings show that very well. Thanks for sharing those.

Those are good drawings and show what I inadequately was trying to say. My comment though is don’t be drawn in by the sharp angles shown. It is a feel thing, as I mentioned for the most part it’s more about knocking off that top back edge. I see no need for a hard angle. I actually tried to bevel one using my Byrnes sander. It did no go well. btw, I don’t have an endless supply of cedar. Pretty sure I’m going to have to order more. I’d just rather be happy with the result.

That’s a good idea.

I’m a bit hesitant on doing this. There are so many different ways and no doubt better ways I’m not sure my new experience is worth sharing. I don’t want my log to become a debate platform for alternative practices. I may just go about my new found method quietly sawing away.

Nice, but after Vanguard too big for me. Fortunately I think we’ll see Sphinx first. I can call it Royal Glenn.

Thanks BE, i appreciate your saying so. Indeed it is a nice model. Hopefully I’m still saying that after I sort out the square tuck.

Thank you. Yes the yellow cedar with wipe on poly produces a nice color. I’m Always surprised at how much the wop adds to the wood, and to how smooth the cedar becomes with sanding. Thank you for saying so. Actually the imperial measurement is still 3/64ths on my calipers. The amazing thing to me is how much variance, the 1.18-1.32mm, is still 3/64ths. The finish is Wipe On Poly, it really adds to the wood. I appreciate your comments. I feel like I give myself ample problems to have to think through 🤣

Don’t muddle my brain with new ways, I just got comfortable with this one😜 I’m comfortable this method, done correctly, produces planks with less than .1mm variance. Hard to beat that.

Glad to be of help as I’ve been helped by others. I’m sure you’ll enjoy building Cheerful, it’s a fun challenge

Taking on Winnie, that’s a big (literally) step up.

I think I’ll next try to write a post on what I’ve learned on ripping planks. I have the micrometer but in this instance it’s no help. I’ll expand on this later but I set the cut depth either with some brass gauges I have or in this case with one plank already cut the proper width between the blade and the fence snugged up tight, but no so tight I can’t pull it through. Step one is having a great saw with the right blade - In my opinion the Byrnes saw has no peer. Though I’m new to ripping planks, I’ve had this saw for ten years and used it for countless things in building my models.

Thanks Rusty, I’ve been helped by so many others myself, including you in my plank ripping education.

Sometimes I worry I share too much...............

In my last post I said if my model had 3 sides the third side would be better. Turns out I elected to prove that point. After finishing the port side I looked to finish the remaining 4 rows on starboard. I was already concerned because I had a thin spot where I had over-sanded. I looked, thought about it, looked some more, shook my head a few times, looked again, thought about it. Then ripped off the whole side (after doing two more rows, only two from being finished) all the way to the bottom of the wales, including those first two rows I’d put on multiple times already. So I did the starboard side again, all 10 rows including the drop plank (which fortunately Chuck provides a couple of extra). I’m much happier with the result, I will not be seeing if I get better if my model had four sides. There are still imperfections, but I’m wrapping that up as character and the acceptance that as I am an imperfect person, so then should be my ship. Here, at least for me, is what I found made the difference. It may seem small but in my work I found it to be important. First, as I mentioned at the beginning of the log I had no experience ripping planks prior to starting Cheerful. Now with the help of others and doing a lot of it I’ve gotten better. The key difference now is I can rip planks a consistent thickness. I’ll show what my steps are in a future post. It’s not that they were wildly different in fact all measured 3/64th with my digital caliper. But as I mentioned the difference in millimeters ran from about 1.18 - 1.32. Clearly that’s not much but it meant more sanding to get them evened up, hence the thin spot. Secondly, I determined I was happiest with thicker planks. With plank bending the thickness wasn’t a problem - so I cut a batch of about 48 planks (enough for the remaining rows on the bottom too) at about 1.38. - almost 1/16th thick. With them all being much closer to the same width and thicker I got better results with much less sanding. This is probably because I’m just an average modeler and certainly because in my life I’ve now single planked three sides of a ship, but it’s what worked. This may all seem obvious to most, my discovery is that if I’d only measured it using imperial, they were all 3/64ths, perhaps my digital caliper may not be as precise in imperial as it should be. By cross checking that in millimeters, and the variance in thickness that showed, sent me on an unrecoverable need to start the starboard side over. And here I am. I’m really hoping I’ve solved this. It would be much more difficult to rip off the bottom rows, I don’t want to do that again. In case you’re wondering - it wasn’t fun. Now I get to figure out why a square tuck is actually a triangle - this may take a while. Oh, and I’m going to need more 3/16ths wood for the deck…:-)

Thanks! I appreciate you're remembering. I don't have an immediate need now but I'll try getting some to see how it looks. It would be nice to have a US source.

Thank you, it is one of my best results and took a couple of years to build (working almost every day), just the frames took 6-8 months. It was a semi-kit, I got the basics from Bob Hunt of Lauck Shipyards, but bashed it heavily with woods from Jeff of Hobbymill (I miss that guy) and other parts here and there. Unfortunately he sort of went under (he still sells practicums) and none of his ship models are still in production. Actually he sold the rights to some plastic modeling company then they never did anything with them. The cannon were my true test of no paint and no blackening, because that's kinda paint. I debated a while before leaving them just as they were. I appreciate your looking - and compliments from someone of your skill are appreciated.

.7mm 😊 I think the planking fan Chuck provides must take that into account somehow. It was surprising to me it comes out as well as it does. It isn’t perfect, I’m not that perfect in transferring them, but it’s close.

Which is why they have so many new designs since you left, as in none. Whatever happened to HMS Surprise for example. I liked Caldercraft,...until their factory operative left 😂🤣

Nice to see it In practice 😊