glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Tie a loop with one semi-loose clove hitch, slide it to get close to the right distance, put the deadeye in the loop, use your jig to set the distance tighten then put on second clove hitch above the first one about 8mm. Definitely use same color. You tie off the deadeye lanyard with its natural color between the two clove hitches using two half hitches. Make whatever adjustments are needed then watered down white glue when everything is set. I set the tension about equal to a loose guitar string, tight enough to bounce the string but not so tight I could get a twang. It’s a fine line between too tight and too lose. I’m sure others have better ways, but this is mine. Hope it helps. -
Piece of old cotton t-shirt
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I agree about wiping it down to remove fingerprints (carefully so the rag doesn't catch an edge of a plate...) and some acetone to remove excess glue, but I didn't seal either of my coppered boats. One is over 10 years old at this point. I don't really touch them once they are on the shelf except the occasional dusting. So it's a choice.
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Your method produce great results so go with what works for you. I use the drill only for the corners and slice my way there with a #11 blade, finishing with the files. I also do it with each layer of planking both inside and out so the final bulwarks layeyer is just following the previous two. But again, it’s whatever works and yours did. I’m with you on the paint. Some acrylics come in a tube and have to be thinned. I use Admiralty paints exclusively, one coat generally does it Except for my white hull, to get that look takes about 10 coats). I may try the thinned method on Cheerful, but for now... Your paint work looks great as well. Maybe paint the gun ports before removing your tape.
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Congratulations on your next best seller. Well done! And...amazing instructions. I agree with the best way to bring on new modelers is kits with sufficient instructions to guide them to success. Chris does just that.
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Nice work pre-rigging the masts. Funny, I thought you were the “Other Glenn.” 🙂
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I’ve been at it awhile. Chris also provides brilliant and detailed plans. My point is he (and Chuck) is the exception not the rule.
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Copper patinas over time and it evens out. Both my coppered ships look much better with “aged” copper. In my opinion, bright and shiny becomes the main focal point and detracts from the rest of the ship. I wiped off excess CA with acetone and left it alone other than that. Another point is overlapped copper plates may look off up close but are lost viewing on the shelf, gaps stand out. I mentioned this because I see a gap in your photo. Just a thought...
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Thanks Lou, I'll give them a look. Google did not lead me to them so I appreciate the link. I think I'm going to make my first attempts with some Alaskan Cedar once Chuck re-opens his store. I'm not going to go nuts, aside from Cheerful I'll try the mast and bowsprit for Speedy/Flirt. But I do need the boxwood (ok Want the boxwood). I'll do some measuring to see if 3/8th works. 2" is way bigger than I'd ever need, though I may be able to rip it down some. I'm going to watch Derek in wonder as he makes his 🙂
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IBEX 36mm FLAT FINGER PLANE - 12mm BLADE. Ron (hollowneck) suggested this one. Thanks for the detailed response, I will make use of it in my prep for Cheerful, and likely the bowsprit for Speedy/Flirt. And here I thought you were just a good modeler, turns out your also a math professor as well 🙂 I may order more Alaskan yellow cedar from Chuck for practice and perhaps use on Speedy/Flirt and also see if I can find lime wood stock. I have had no luck locating boxwood. There used to be a guy, Jeff with Hobbymill. All of us miss him and clearly don’t realize how good we had it. The boxwood above the Wales on my Nelson was the last I had from him.
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Just a suggestion, look at the plans even if its after you've read Chris' instructions. Chris is unique, seldom will you see instructions as good as his. I built the model I just finished without ever looking at the instructions. I was able to build the whole model just using the plans.
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Nice post, very informative. I've not converted square stock to mast and spars yet, but its time to learn. So: Between yours and the other couple of posts I can make the jig to hold the wood for planing. I ordered by first planer ever, it will be key to not slice off my thumb. However I don't have the means to work with metal or the metal to work with - your jig looks like an excellent tool but I don't think I can make it so I'll have to find another way to mark the wood. Where did you get the boxwood, it seems like it’s a magical wood that no one can find. This is really good work Derek, I'm looking forward to watching your masts and yards progress. I have to figure this out for Cheerful, I better start slicing some wood for practice.
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I built this model and know about the stern first hand. Pinning the wet/steamed wood may result in warping as/ after it dries. The method I use as I learned from Chuck doesn’t require soaking or steaming thus no warping. But if you think it’s just tapering then ok.
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I’ve used pear on the inner bulwarks of several of my models including Pegasus which has cherry above the Wales and on my Fair American which is mostly cherry. So far for me the cherry after 5-7 year takes on a definite sweet color, but the pear looks essentially the same (not that’s at all bad, it’s pretty wood). I was using Swiss Pear from good ole Jeff, that may be different than your pear. Either way that’s one nice looking hull, you’ve always been one of my inspirations for me to ‘do better.’
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Those are the longest skinny cannons I’ve ever seen 😂🤣 Your hull looks great. Not sure what to offer on the painting. The Tamiya tape is usually the answer. I have a tool I use (hard curved metal end) to run along the edge to ensure a really tight seal. I’ve had the poly underneath the tape and not had a problem. At any rate you recovered nicely. Nothing stands out worse on a model more than bad paint lines, sure don’t see any now.
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Pinning the wet/steamed wood may result in warping as/ after it dries. The method I use as I learned from Chuck doesn’t require soaking or steaming thus no warping. But if you think it’s just tapering then ok.
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In addition to Ryland’s comments: Are you soaking the planks, hard to see but looks some of the warping may be due to too much soaking, or perhaps your fairing is off. Your tapering also seems, by this point there should be much more taper there by that point. The link Ryland provided addresses both issues. You can make up a lot with sanding and filler on the first planking, but as you said you want the first planking to be practice for the second.
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It takes only a small dab of CA in the center of each tile, and it’s definitely a CA job. Like Chris I keep as many together I can 3-5 wasn’t unusual. The overlap stands out to you as your doing it, but you won’t notice it all once it’s on the shelf. I’m on record, I do not like to copper. It’s way too much like work:-/
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Send me your bottle of Macallan 25, I’ll burn some boxwood and let you know...
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I've built every model this way. My masts look like a shaggy Christmas tree as I hold them up with all the blocks and shrouds before stepping it onto the ship. That leave running the lines through the blocks and tying the ratlines once its up.
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Which one of those is mine 🙂 ?
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It’s always a good plan to rig out masts and spars as much as possible off the ship. It’s so much easier if all you.re doing at that point is connecting stuff.
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I have Cheerful, the masts and yards are square stock. I think I may be doing it next, not sure yet. Chris coming out in July with Flirt Master Shipwright version gives me pause starting Speedy. I saw the Ibex site - there were so many versions and blade size no idea where to start. https://www.metmusic.com/tools/ibex-planes/ I'll go for the one on your link - but what blade size. I'm really a novice planer, I may slice my thumb off.
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I own no planers, that in itself would be interesting. Thanks for the photos and explanation. I’ll try and sort out making the jig and look for a planer.
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I'm going to get some experience with square stock with Cheerful. So when you say planing jig...? I get the squaring off verses rounding off, but as I'm not interested in owning a lathe I'd be interested to hear more and maybe a photo of your jig. I can probably sort it out with my handy DeWalt battery powered drill, I'm all for seeing how the experts do it and any way that would make it more precise than turning my drill with sandpaper and files in hand. Your dioramas are amazing, I thought you were showing me a painting..l.
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