glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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In case you were wondering about guidance for building Cheerful I printed Chuck’s chapters from his website, 120 pages including color photos of step by step instruction. Just sayin’
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I’m ok with my use of the word smooth in this context. Smooth as in the clear definition of the hull without hills and valleys and the basis of what you want it to become. I put a coat of water based poly on the first planking to seal and then light sand that with a medium grade paper. Never had an adhesion issue. But then I use CA... -
Here is my Cutter Cheerful for my first scratch build, it’s not quite done yet. Thanks @Chuck for amazing material. The task ahead is daunting but I have great wood, plans, guidance, and mini-kits to get there. The Alaskan Yellow Cedar is like butter. Build log to follow once I begin.
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I was referring to the outside of the hull. I know we just glue on the strips, but for beginners to get them lined up and spaced properly will be a good test. I really hope they sell well, its important beginners have a good first experience. For me, although I'd built the Blue Nose first, I really learned the good stuff from building the Virginia AVS using a detailed practicum from Bob Hunt. I still use that for reference on rigging methods (that I forget between models). So my recommendation is the model itself is of course important, but the accompanying instructions - which you are really good at. The beginner won't have a clue about using plans, but learning all the steps and how to do that will lead them to their next purchase of the Alert or Speedy 🙂
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Nice looking little boats - I'm thinking that side moulding might be a challenge for a beginner but I'm sure you explain it well in your instructions. This is the kind of kit I'd like to get my grandson when he gets a bit older, I wish you the best of luck in finding a market for it. There is just so much mass produced, but heavily marketed crap, on the places and website beginners would go to look I hope they can separate from all that to find a kit of this quality. I'm a fan.
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Your first planking is very smooth as first planking's go. My experience is the smoother the better, from what I see in the photos you’ll be fine with a little filler in the dips then some sanding. Nothing dramatic necessary. The second planking will pick up any big height changes and with its thinner wood less adaptable to sanding it out. Nice work!
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If I’m following your question cutting a plank to fit is very hard work and difficult to repeat for each plank. For me there are two steps, taper and bend. I use a 4-5mm plank, taper it to fit (so there are the same number of planks from top to bottom) then bend it into the curve to fit the hull. My next step after lining the hull is tapering a plank to fit. If the plank at its widest point is 5mm at midship then you need to trim it along its length to, for example, 2.5mm (width determined by your tick marks) where it meets the bow. The next step is fitting that tapered strip to fit the inward and downward curves of the bow. I’ve done planking the same way, taper-soak-twist for a long time. Recently I discovered Chuck’s plank bending technique, it works great. It takes a little practice and even with the excellent tutorials a little hands on work to get settled using it, but it’s well worth the time spent. The videos Chuck and VTH linked you to explain how that works. I hope this helps and I’m understanding your question. There are tons of tutorials and methods on this site, it’s just about finding what works for you. But I’d try this one first.
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If you go with boxwood I don’t think you have to do all the detail around the masts and hatches. If you don’t go with the boxwood then send it to me, because I can’t seem to find any😂
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I'm not sure what "purists" would be bothered by, I think it looks great. Nice job!
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Up to you but those joints may stand out more than you want. The gun ports break it up already. It’s easier in my opinion to open a port with a #11 blade with a full strip across it than to line up edges. I’m planning to use the laser cut deck at the moment.
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These come in handy for managing the glue, I keep a supply and go through about 3 per build. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LRT7TO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Planning to use this great log to help guide me in my build of the Cheerful.
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I’ve used this CA on every model I’ve built. So far (the oldest is about 20 years old) nothing has fallen off, it works for me. https://www.amazon.com/Insta-Cure-Filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Ca+glue&qid=1583261674&sr=8-6 There is a medium version of this same brand I keep on hand for certain jobs for a little longer setup time.
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Well that’s interesting. I’ll look forward to seeing how it turns out after final sanding.
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Good to know Chuck, but don’t tell my wife, I’m looking for justification to buy one 🙂
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Fairing is so much fun. I have a collection of various sanding tools, but I’m always looking for a better way. Thanks for the replies and the link. I ordered the cedar version from Chuck yesterday.
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I'm sure I'll sort it out. It looks like I'll have to first invest in a scroll saw and then learn how to use it while keeping all ten fingers 🙂
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I realize you completed this a long while ago, I'm just ordering Chuck's Cheerful, he noted yours was a good log to use for reference. Do you have photos or can you explain what you did with different curved sanding blocks please?
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Hi Rusty, I'm ordering the parts and plans from Chuck and putting this on my build list after Lady Nelson and Speedy. Glad I'll have your log to refer to. I'm not sure I have the skills for some of the work, but guess I'll find out...:-D
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Hang in there, remember the goal of the first blanking it to cover the frame with wood - it's ok if its ugly as long as it's a smooth base and the right form for the 2nd planking. It's good that you began again, but no worries it will all turn out great.
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Good stuff. Macallan for me. I visited the distillery in Scotland, highlight of the trip.
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It’s another Chris Watson design (he says from decades ago), the Lady Nelson. I started after a 3 year layoff before I knew about Vanguard models. It’s basic, but fun. The finish is Satin water based Poly.
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Your planking looks great, did you bend the planks ...LOL, sorry couldn’t resist. I’m just a CA guy I guess, but like plank bending, to each his own. That’s why this is fun, we can do whatever we want and have a pleasant discussion about it. Don’t be gone long Derek, you may find we’re using your log to discuss the merits of fine scotch 😂
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You have to try this to see how well it works. I still taper the planks based on the measurements, this doesn’t replace that. As we know the bow curves both in and down. You probably, like I used to, achieve this double curve by soaking and twisting. The bent plank looks weird by itself but it lays on to the double curve perfectly. It takes a little practice but once you learn it it’s all you’ll ever do. The “traditional” way leads to warping and swelling, this way leads to perfect fits around the bow and stern. It’s appropriate to use on any model with a bow. Watch Chuck’s videos for more on how. I actually got more from when he’s at a workshop. You can view my gallery photos, I did ok with the old way on all those models, this way is just so much better for me. That said, to each his own way. Whatever makes you happy. Sorry to hijack your log Derek, but here's a photo of my little cutter project underway. I don't think I'd get such a nice even upsweep of the planks using my old method. The Lady Nelson has even less bow curve than Speedy. I started bending and tapering at the first walnut plank below the wales. The counter-intuitive thing is you bend the plank down and as a result it curves up with the double curve of the bow. (Chuck should give me a marketing credit:-)
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