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glbarlow

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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. glbarlow
    If you go with boxwood I don’t think you have to do all the detail around the masts and hatches. If you don’t go with the boxwood then send it to me, because I can’t seem to find any😂
  2. glbarlow
    I'm not sure what "purists" would be bothered by, I think it looks great. Nice job!
  3. glbarlow
    Up to you but those joints may stand out more than you want. The gun ports break it up already. It’s easier in my opinion to open a port with a #11 blade with a full strip across it than to line up edges. I’m planning to use the laser cut deck at the moment.
  4. glbarlow
    I corrected the link. Thanks for the catch.
  5. glbarlow
    These come in handy for managing the glue, I keep a supply and go through about 3 per build. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LRT7TO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. glbarlow
    Planning to use this great log to help guide me in my build of the Cheerful.
  7. glbarlow
    I’ve used this CA on every model I’ve built. So far (the oldest is about 20 years old) nothing has fallen off, it works for me. https://www.amazon.com/Insta-Cure-Filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Ca+glue&qid=1583261674&sr=8-6 There is a medium version of this same brand I keep on hand for certain jobs for a little longer setup time.
  8. glbarlow
    Well that’s interesting. I’ll look forward to seeing how it turns out after final sanding.
  9. glbarlow
    Good to know Chuck, but don’t tell my wife, I’m looking for justification to buy one 🙂
  10. glbarlow
    Fairing is so much fun. I have a collection of various sanding tools, but I’m always looking for a better way. Thanks for the replies and the link. I ordered the cedar version from Chuck yesterday.
  11. glbarlow
    I'm sure I'll sort it out. It looks like I'll have to first invest in a scroll saw and then learn how to use it while keeping all ten fingers 🙂
  12. glbarlow
    I realize you completed this a long while ago, I'm just ordering Chuck's Cheerful, he noted yours was a good log to use for reference. Do you have photos or can you explain what you did with different curved sanding blocks please?
  13. glbarlow
    Hi Rusty, I'm ordering the parts and plans from Chuck and putting this on my build list after Lady Nelson and Speedy. Glad I'll have your log to refer to. I'm not sure I have the skills for some of the work, but guess I'll find out...:-D
  14. glbarlow
    Hang in there, remember the goal of the first blanking it to cover the frame with wood - it's ok if its ugly as long as it's a smooth base and the right form for the 2nd planking. It's good that you began again, but no worries it will all turn out great.
  15. glbarlow
    Good stuff. Macallan for me. I visited the distillery in Scotland, highlight of the trip.
  16. glbarlow
    It’s another Chris Watson design (he says from decades ago), the Lady Nelson. I started after a 3 year layoff before I knew about Vanguard models. It’s basic, but fun. The finish is Satin water based Poly.
  17. glbarlow
    Your planking looks great, did you bend the planks ...LOL, sorry couldn’t resist. I’m just a CA guy I guess, but like plank bending, to each his own. That’s why this is fun, we can do whatever we want and have a pleasant discussion about it. Don’t be gone long Derek, you may find we’re using your log to discuss the merits of fine scotch 😂
  18. glbarlow
    You have to try this to see how well it works. I still taper the planks based on the measurements, this doesn’t replace that. As we know the bow curves both in and down. You probably, like I used to, achieve this double curve by soaking and twisting. The bent plank looks weird by itself but it lays on to the double curve perfectly. It takes a little practice but once you learn it it’s all you’ll ever do. The “traditional” way leads to warping and swelling, this way leads to perfect fits around the bow and stern. It’s appropriate to use on any model with a bow. Watch Chuck’s videos for more on how. I actually got more from when he’s at a workshop. You can view my gallery photos, I did ok with the old way on all those models, this way is just so much better for me. That said, to each his own way. Whatever makes you happy. Sorry to hijack your log Derek, but here's a photo of my little cutter project underway. I don't think I'd get such a nice even upsweep of the planks using my old method. The Lady Nelson has even less bow curve than Speedy. I started bending and tapering at the first walnut plank below the wales. The counter-intuitive thing is you bend the plank down and as a result it curves up with the double curve of the bow. (Chuck should give me a marketing credit:-)
  19. glbarlow
    Thank you, i kinda enjoy writing them. Don’t tell anyone but I started one on that other site🙃there was so little interaction I sort of abandoned it. I plan to start one here later to add to the Speedy journals.
  20. glbarlow
    My same finding, I thought it was too much, but the bent boards lay in there so nicely on my little cutter project.
  21. glbarlow
    I don’t mean to impose my opinion on anyone else. I hope you enjoy the process.
  22. glbarlow
    I've successfully built a number of models using my own method of planking. I wish I'd discovered Chuck's method sooner, I used it on my current model (my simple little project after a long layoff). I am amazed at the results and just how much you can bend planks. I used the travel iron as Chuck suggested at some point in his videos or tutorials and think it’s by far the best approach. Wetting the wood with just my finger then applying the (steam) iron to the wood bent and held by clamps heated and dried the wood quickly, and as someone has pointed out "presses" the wood in the bargain. I think you''ll enjoy the decision to get the iron - the travel size works best because you really only need the front corner.
  23. glbarlow
    Same ship I did, it does look ok on the Vanguard - just not for me on smaller ships. I'm very happy I didn't do my Pegasus. I'm also happy I didn't count the plates. 🙂 But as I said, really a matter of personal choice.
  24. glbarlow
    First off I don't like the end appearance, my personal preference. Historical accuracy aside the copper draws my attention way too much over the beauty of the model, its lines and all the detail I put into it from furniture to rigging are muffled by the copper hull. It is what you notice first and, again in my opinion, not what I want to see. The white hull just looks so much more like an elegant model sitting on my shelf. I'm not sailing it anywhere, its one aspect of historical accuracy I don't feel I need to have done the job right. However in the case of the Vanguard (I also coppered my Pickle) it was the incredible tediousness of placing one plate after another after another in one line after another after another. I actually stopped for almost a year after coppering the port side before starting starboard. I just lost interest in modeling and did I mention how tedious it is on a large ship. I won't be coppering Speedy, I hope it to join Pegasus and Granado in my study bookshelves, with its white hull. Hope that helps.
  25. glbarlow
    Thank you for your reply. I understand the repeatable and safety aspect, How does it make cuts the same length? My example is cutting the very short “borders” of a square hatch, say each just 25mm in length and a 45 mitre didn’t cut, hard to do without losing a finger. Does the sliding table help with month the accurate cut and getting 4 perfect 25 mm lengths? I should just buy it, but not sure I’d know how to use it. Great video, very helpful.

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