glbarlow

Chapter 11, the model save the headworks is complete. I thought I'd share some photos:

So many cool design features stand out. As simple as the bill board may appear it was a sharp addition. As I've mentioned, I dyed the deadeyes ebony. The dye, as opposed to black paint, allows the grain to show (though hard to see in photos) I'm pleased with how they complement the colors of the overall model.
The open deck allows a nice glimpse of the stove - such a fun thing to make I'm glad it's not completely hidden.
 
The decision is still pending on whether I place the swivel guns on the bollards. I'm not sure how I feel about the look, accurate or otherwise and I'm not completely confident drilling the holes for them to fit.  I'll revisit it as I start work on the headworks. 


The midship cannons were the last thing glued in. I was holding off while my friend and I fitted the base he's making to have a place to hold. Once the gang boards were mounted they became more the thing to avoid than cannon barrels.
 
I'm happy with my decision not to rig the guns this time around. Although I appreciate those that did, in this case I like how it provides for a nice clean look. Or maybe I just didn't want to rig 32 guns.

The transition to the quarterdeck, from the lower deck letter to the breast rail provides for a lot of detail and many, many hours of work over the past 2 ½ years. It's all worth it when it all comes together. Those posts took a lot of time. So glad I took that time. 

I made the elm tree pumps two years ago but didn't add them until the ladders, rails, gang boards, and everything around them was complete. That was a good call, I would have broke them multiple times otherwise.

The stern is when all the fun is. Between port lids, more cannon, swivel guns and predominant deck furniture there is lots to see and lots of mini-projects to get there.  

One very minor thing I'm happy with: I was able to wrap and match up paper friezes for six of the swivel guns. With the angle and only two sides showing that wasn't an option for the two on the quarter gallery roof. I'm no paint specialist but I kept playing with Winsor and Newton Cerulean Blue, Titanium White, and Grumacher Mars Black until I got a nice match with the paper frieze. I know it's a small thing, I considered going the Sherman Williams store for a computer based match but not sure what I'd do with the minimum order of a quart.

I've shown versions of this photo several times, I never tire of it. For me it's a piece of art all by itself and yet another signature tribute to Chuck's design and penchant for detail. 

So here she sits ready for the final chapter. I'm taking some time off for other summer activities, I'll see how long I can go before jumping in to start chapter 12.
 
Thanks for stopping by, your likes and comments are always appreciated.
 
 
 

Chapter 11, the model save the headworks is complete. I thought I'd share some photos:

So many cool design features stand out. As simple as the bill board may appear it was a sharp addition. As I've mentioned, I dyed the deadeyes ebony. The dye, as opposed to black paint, allows the grain to show (though hard to see in photos) I'm pleased with how they complement the colors of the overall model.
The open deck allows a nice glimpse of the stove - such a fun thing to make I'm glad it's not completely hidden.
 
The decision is still pending on whether I place the swivel guns on the bollards. I'm not sure how I feel about the look, accurate or otherwise and I'm not completely confident drilling the holes for them to fit.  I'll revisit it as I start work on the headworks. 


The midship cannons were the last thing glued in. I was holding off while my friend and I fitted the base he's making to have a place to hold. Once the gang boards were mounted they became more the thing to avoid than cannon barrels.
 
I'm happy with my decision not to rig the guns this time around. Although I appreciate those that did, in this case I like how it provides for a nice clean look. Or maybe I just didn't want to rig 32 guns.

The transition to the quarterdeck, from the lower deck letter to the breast rail provides for a lot of detail and many, many hours of work over the past 2 ½ years. It's all worth it when it all comes together. Those posts took a lot of time. So glad I took that time. 

I made the elm tree pumps two years ago but didn't add them until the ladders, rails, gang boards, and everything around them was complete. That was a good call, I would have broke them multiple times otherwise.

The stern is when all the fun is. Between port lids, more cannon, swivel guns and predominant deck furniture there is lots to see and lots of mini-projects to get there.  

One very minor thing I'm happy with: I was able to wrap and match up paper friezes for six of the swivel guns. With the angle and only two sides showing that wasn't an option for the two on the quarter gallery roof. I'm no paint specialist but I kept playing with Winsor and Newton Cerulean Blue, Titanium White, and Grumacher Mars Black until I got a nice match with the paper frieze. I know it's a small thing, I considered going the Sherman Williams store for a computer based match but not sure what I'd do with the minimum order of a quart.

I've shown versions of this photo several times, I never tire of it. For me it's a piece of art all by itself and yet another signature tribute to Chuck's design and penchant for detail. 

So here she sits ready for the final chapter. I'm taking some time off for other summer activities, I'll see how long I can go before jumping in to start chapter 12.
 
Thanks for stopping by, your likes and comments are always appreciated.
 
 
 

Chapter 11, the model save the headworks is complete. I thought I'd share some photos:

So many cool design features stand out. As simple as the bill board may appear it was a sharp addition. As I've mentioned, I dyed the deadeyes ebony. The dye, as opposed to black paint, allows the grain to show (though hard to see in photos) I'm pleased with how they complement the colors of the overall model.
The open deck allows a nice glimpse of the stove - such a fun thing to make I'm glad it's not completely hidden.
 
The decision is still pending on whether I place the swivel guns on the bollards. I'm not sure how I feel about the look, accurate or otherwise and I'm not completely confident drilling the holes for them to fit.  I'll revisit it as I start work on the headworks. 


The midship cannons were the last thing glued in. I was holding off while my friend and I fitted the base he's making to have a place to hold. Once the gang boards were mounted they became more the thing to avoid than cannon barrels.
 
I'm happy with my decision not to rig the guns this time around. Although I appreciate those that did, in this case I like how it provides for a nice clean look. Or maybe I just didn't want to rig 32 guns.

The transition to the quarterdeck, from the lower deck letter to the breast rail provides for a lot of detail and many, many hours of work over the past 2 ½ years. It's all worth it when it all comes together. Those posts took a lot of time. So glad I took that time. 

I made the elm tree pumps two years ago but didn't add them until the ladders, rails, gang boards, and everything around them was complete. That was a good call, I would have broke them multiple times otherwise.

The stern is when all the fun is. Between port lids, more cannon, swivel guns and predominant deck furniture there is lots to see and lots of mini-projects to get there.  

One very minor thing I'm happy with: I was able to wrap and match up paper friezes for six of the swivel guns. With the angle and only two sides showing that wasn't an option for the two on the quarter gallery roof. I'm no paint specialist but I kept playing with Winsor and Newton Cerulean Blue, Titanium White, and Grumacher Mars Black until I got a nice match with the paper frieze. I know it's a small thing, I considered going the Sherman Williams store for a computer based match but not sure what I'd do with the minimum order of a quart.

I've shown versions of this photo several times, I never tire of it. For me it's a piece of art all by itself and yet another signature tribute to Chuck's design and penchant for detail. 

So here she sits ready for the final chapter. I'm taking some time off for other summer activities, I'll see how long I can go before jumping in to start chapter 12.
 
Thanks for stopping by, your likes and comments are always appreciated.
 
 
 

Is it a Surprise?😁

Is it a Surprise?😁

The hawse holes can be complex but if you spend a lot of time preparing and measuring it will go smoothly.   Before I begin describing my process here is a look at the contemporary model.   You can see many close up details here.
 

I started by preparing some new templates.   They are very much like the other templates but I wanted to add some other reference lines to help me more with aligning the hawse holes.   So these are the ones you want to use when you get this stage.
 

You will note a few things in that photo.  First you will see the dashed vertical lines I added that extend up to the cap rail.   These will allow you to mark the locations of the hawse holes on top of the cap rail.   To do this I cut some painters tape to the width of the hawse holes and placed it on the cap rail using the template as a guide.  The tape runs parallel to the keel across the cap rail.   
 
You will also notice how I cut the hawse holes from the template so I could use it as a stencil after taping it to the hull.   I also cut an opening to mark the location of the hawse hoods or naval hoods.  These are the plates that sit over the planking.   The template sits on top of the wales as before.  The forward edge sits against the stem.
 
I of course cut away the molding strip  on the hull before I taped the template in position.  I dont want to forget to mention that.   Then I traced the hawse holes onto the hull.   
 

On the inboard side of the hull,  I prepared another template specifically for the hawse holes.   Note the dashed lines again that extend to the cap rail.   This template was lined up with the tape I placed across the cap rail.  This will be the path I plan to drill through the hull for the hawse holes.   This was a lot of measuring and planning to come up with these templates but it all worked out well.   Just trace the hawse holes on the inboard side as well.  Note how the template is sitting on the deck which establishes the correct height...I hope.
 
I didnt take any pictures right after drilling the hawse holes.  I cant believe I forgot to do it.  But let me explain the process.  I drilled them out using progressively larger drill bits.   I drilled from both sides.   I drilled half way through from the front and then switched to inboard.  I drilled half way through until the holes met in the middle and the first small hole was clear and through.  Then I switched to a slightly larger drill bit and repeated the process.  I increased them until the hawse holes were almost full size and then I switched to a round file to clean them up and enlarge them further.   
 
THE ENTIRE time while drilling from the outboard side I used the blue tape on the top of the cap rail to guide the drill bit at the same angle.  Following the keel.   The hawse holes are almost level in height inboard and outboard with only a slight upward angle needed as you drill from the outboard side.  A very slight angle.   Not to worry if its not exact because when you dill from the inboard side to meet the outside hole it should all meet up decently.  
 
I touched up the red paint inboard and used a soft pencil to darken the insides of the hawse holes black...to represent lead or tin I suppose.
 
Next up was to add the Hawse hoods or Naval hoods on the outboard side.   These are made in two layers.  They are laser cut and on the outermost end is a laser etched detail.  This small etched detail wouldnt be difficult to carve with a sharp chisel.  But I just assume etch it onto the ends.  This means you must clean up the laser char from this "stepped" detail.  I used a small flat needle file.   It doesnt have to be perfectly clean either.  Just do the best you can.  Mine isnt perfect by any means and this little bt of char will actually accentuate the carved detail.   Look at the photo of the contemporary model to see it on the original.  The parts on the left are not yet cleaned.
 
The two layers are glued together carefully.  The circles for the hawse holes are registered together.   But a little tip....while gluing the two layers you can actually pre bend the hoods so they will stay bent and curved once the glue dries.  Its hard to see this in the photo but the one on the right is curved to almost match the hull curvature exactly.  This will make it so much easier to glue onto the hull.
 

 
Here you can see the two layered assembly glued onto the hull.  Please note that after gluing the two layers together the inside edge against the stem must be beveled.  I also cut these pieces a but longer (not by much) so you can line them up with your hawse holes drilled through the hull.   Just carefully bevel the edge a little at time until as you are test fitting it on the model it the hawse holes line up.   The holes themselves are also slightly smaller on this so you will have even more wiggle room to enlarge them after this is glued on the model.  I think they look pretty good and look quite a bit like the contemporary model.
 

Lastly...the bolster.   This piece is slightly thicker and not long enough to bend easily.  So I laser cut it on even thicker boxwood stock.   Its easier to sand the curve into the back side rather than bend it to fit on the hull.   Once the bolster sits nicely on the hull and the curve matches,   you can sand the outside to match.   This will leave the overall thickness at about 3/64".  Maybe slightly more.
 
Round off the top edges and sides but dont touch the hawse hole cut-aways just yet.   This will be done after you glue the bolsters on the model.  You will notice the oddball shape of the hawse hole cut-aways.  They dont look like half circles.   This is on purpose.   Remember the hawse holes are drilled through parallel to the keel.   So these weird shaped half holes are shaped like l=this so you can file them to the proper shape.   Use a round file to open them up to match the angle of your hawse holes through the bulwarks.  I hope that makes sense.   When initially gluing the bolster on the hull, line up the iboard side to match the profile of your hawse holes.  Just like in the photo.   Then use your file to shape them.
 

 
They will or should be opened up to look like this.  The holes were touched up and blackened with a soft pencil.
 

 

Is it a Surprise?😁

Is it a Surprise?😁

Is it a Surprise?😁

Is it a Surprise?😁

Is it a Surprise?😁

Is it a Surprise?😁

You'll need space on those pin rails for all the rigging you'll later belay.  Could just be the angle but they seem a bit narrow.
 
It all looks so tight and crisp - exceptional build. You clearly got the eyelet making drill down, those look great.
 

Only the swivel guns to go to finish Chapter 11. A quick update on what was the long process of adding the chain plates to fix the deadeyes to the channels. Basically a lot of holes to drill in a straight, level, and angled lines.

Another exercise in patience, planning. placing, and adjusting each of the three mast sections of channels and deadeyes

I am a big fan of the acrylic strops and chainplates - so much easier and such a much better look than fighting through their metal equivalents. I’m not going back.

I also had a new opportunity to make many eyelets along the hull following the plans. At this point the twist around the drill bit in the vice and the cut, snip, fit is mindless, easy work. Maybe someday I’ll count how many I’ve made for Winchelsea - or maybe not.

The model is transformed with these additions - looking completely like a ship at this point (don’t look at the stem, that’s Chapter 12). It’s really quite something. I'm going to take some better photos after I finish Chpt 11. I still haven't glued in the remaining guns, but that's coming up soon.
 
Thanks for stopping by - some swivel guns are up next.

Nice to see you back at work. I remember those doors…

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

You'll need space on those pin rails for all the rigging you'll later belay.  Could just be the angle but they seem a bit narrow.
 
It all looks so tight and crisp - exceptional build. You clearly got the eyelet making drill down, those look great.
 

Glenn,  Thanks for the compliments.  I think it's just the angle of the photos for the pin rails.  They're made/shaped exactly to size from the plans.
 
Erik

You'll need space on those pin rails for all the rigging you'll later belay.  Could just be the angle but they seem a bit narrow.
 
It all looks so tight and crisp - exceptional build. You clearly got the eyelet making drill down, those look great.
 

You'll need space on those pin rails for all the rigging you'll later belay.  Could just be the angle but they seem a bit narrow.
 
It all looks so tight and crisp - exceptional build. You clearly got the eyelet making drill down, those look great.
 

You'll need space on those pin rails for all the rigging you'll later belay.  Could just be the angle but they seem a bit narrow.
 
It all looks so tight and crisp - exceptional build. You clearly got the eyelet making drill down, those look great.
 

Thanks for the kind words and likes.  When photographing a couple weeks of work it doesn't really look like I made much progress!  I attached the rest of the cleats to the bulwarks, drilled all the holes for the cannon eyebolts, formed the 60 or so eyebolts needed, and then made and attached the side pin rails.  When attaching the eyebolts, I only glued in the top ones, and left the lower ones off.  I made a jig out of styrene to get the holes in the bulwarks consistent.  And being a perfectionist, the forming of the eyebolts themselves wound up taking some time.
 
I had a question regarding the inboard bulwark ladders for you Cheerful builders.  The instructions say, "You will find the template on the plans to cut the sides for the ladder.  But just to make life easier, print the next page as all of the elements are provided".  None of the 3 plan sheets have a template for the sides of the ladder.  And I'm not sure what the print the next page reference means.  There are no plans for the ladders in the written instructions either.  Does anyone happen to have a plan that shows the side shape of the ladder?  I guess I can make a good guess based on photos of the ladder pieces shown in Chuck's instructions, but it would be a little easier if I had a template to reference/print.
 
While still working on the Cheerful almost daily, my progress has slowed down a fair amount.  With the warmer weather and longer days, there's lots to do outside, so the path forward on the build will be a bit slower while I enjoy the summer.
 
Erik

Only the swivel guns to go to finish Chapter 11. A quick update on what was the long process of adding the chain plates to fix the deadeyes to the channels. Basically a lot of holes to drill in a straight, level, and angled lines.

Another exercise in patience, planning. placing, and adjusting each of the three mast sections of channels and deadeyes

I am a big fan of the acrylic strops and chainplates - so much easier and such a much better look than fighting through their metal equivalents. I’m not going back.

I also had a new opportunity to make many eyelets along the hull following the plans. At this point the twist around the drill bit in the vice and the cut, snip, fit is mindless, easy work. Maybe someday I’ll count how many I’ve made for Winchelsea - or maybe not.

The model is transformed with these additions - looking completely like a ship at this point (don’t look at the stem, that’s Chapter 12). It’s really quite something. I'm going to take some better photos after I finish Chpt 11. I still haven't glued in the remaining guns, but that's coming up soon.
 
Thanks for stopping by - some swivel guns are up next.

I then proceeded to knock one off while doing fenders. Fortunately it was PVA glue that gave and not the wood, so it was an easy fix. 

Well done JJ, amazing design work! I can't imagine a hike to the Himalayas parking lot let along any further.  Be careful and enjoy the trip. Having just "located" the channels your design element marking them and making them easier to install is a excellent feature.