glbarlow

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

Thanks Glenn and nzreg.
 
This is where I'm at on the port side quarter galleries, frieze and moldings.
The scrolls and top most moldings are Syren laser cut from cherry.
The center and lower molding were scraped from pear. They all work good together.
The roof for the galleries has been completed but is just sitting in place for now.
I still have to finish the top molding as well as the gallery fancy roof molding.
Then it's on to the starboard side.
 

 

 

She’s really looking good!  And that’s very interesting that the wales actually fit into the rabbitt.

Beautiful. The time and care you're taking are really paying off. 

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

Looking so good. I’m really enjoying following your build log.

She's looking really fine, Glenn!

After completing the drop plank and the first two rows of planks below the wales (where the drop plank counts as two at the bow), plus installing more than one or two fashion pieces I’ve now completed the wales. I painted them using Admiralty Paints Ironwork Black, which oddly enough is duller (really more flat) than the Dull Black I normally use.
 

 
I was really tempted to also paint the counter but decided to wait until I’d at least had a dry-fitting with the square tuck I’ll somehow create after getting the next 8 rows of planks on both sides.
 

 
I didn’t take any photos of installing the wales, but it’s as straight forward as on any model - I did try extra hard on keeping neat paint lines. Me and Tamiya tape did ok with that, with some effort. It’s worth it to take the time getting the tape right, its either that or scrape, sand, and clean up where you didn’t. If you’re not familiar with Tamiya tape, get some. There is nothing better, blue painter’s tape isn’t even close, in getting a close tight seal for painting - for those of us like me who lack the skill to free-hand. Though I am pretty handy with an 18/0 brush to do touchup.
 

 
I also followed Chuck’s instruction to thin out the wales at the bow. I cut and dry-fitted both top and bottom planks then held them side by side on a work board and tapered them down to near saxophone reed thickness. In my case they actually did fit into the rabbit. They do look so much better this way.
 

 
Since I’ll be working upside down it was time for a new stand, really an old stand modified. I go for function over form with these things so its nothing fancy, just a cut-down of a stand made for my Vanguard with some cross blocks added for stability. The fun part is I used my new mill for the very first time - for the very easy job of adding a slot down the center of the cross blocks. So now I'm a miller, sorta.
 

 

 
I added a fresh coat of poly across what is now the completed top third of the hull. Now it’s time mark the two belts with artist tape, get out the tick strips and line the hull as I start planking the 8 rows of planks that make up the top belt.  Not that anything has been fast, but this next phase will be slow going to get each plank right - and as a bonus I also get to rip more planks, so Yay!
 

They aren’t typos, it is Apple making way too many decisions for me with predictive text on my iPad. I type the right word, Apple changes it to something it likes, and I don’t go back and edit.
 
But as long as it entertains then I’m fine with it, though I really should turn off predictive text. 

They aren’t typos, it is Apple making way too many decisions for me with predictive text on my iPad. I type the right word, Apple changes it to something it likes, and I don’t go back and edit.
 
But as long as it entertains then I’m fine with it, though I really should turn off predictive text. 

Your method looks great, and a good choice give the guns are so tiny. You may have converted me on frapping, at least on Flirt when I get to her, Cheerful is big enough I’m sure the coils will work. The difference in your ring bolts is striking, thanks for the detailed explanation on making them, which I’ll put to use. 
 
In the book Chris recommended on Cochrane I learned he did replace all the guns with larger ones only to find the wouldn’t work for several reasons and he had to change them back. He could carry a full broadside of the shot in his pockets as he walked the deck. 
 
See you on the other side.

Is that really something to quibble about?  I’m sure for a heavily used boat like this there were lots of variations.  Let’s just enjoy looking at something different.  
 
My question though is where do the cannon go?🤣😂

I agree Glenn. I spent a couple hours last night cleaning up the flash etc. on the pieces and will start experimenting soon.
I'll temporarily tack them in place to evaluate the look.   

Great work as usual. Darker may be too dark once on the shelf. Maybe look at the test pieces where you plan to display her. 

I agree  - you've made an excellent job of the first planking. Whilst I also agree with Glenn that the sternpost might be a little thin, I think you might also want to take a little more 'meat' out of the deadwood area in order to ensure you have a smooth taper into the sternpost. It's always difficult to judge from photos though, so you'll be best placed to decide once you've taken Glenn's advice with the strips of second planking.

I don’t think a skim coat of filler is necessary, it looks fine.  You might have gone a tad thin on the sternpost, try holding two pieces of 2nd planking either side and holding the sternpost to it so you know how much you can, or can’t sand on the second planking. 

After some time off from my Speedy, I have started to work on the tiny parts. Some are really difficult and perhaps not of the best quality (!) but I think it mostly depends on outsourced lasercutting. I got one  of the first kits and looking at the upgrades and what Chris have done with his own lasermachine I think they are way better now. 

 
I decided to plint these black but i might do a few of my own in boxwood to match the colours.

Most of the precut stuff are great and make the work much easier. I also start to be friends with my airbrush but still have alot to learn. 


I still havent decided about rigging the canons. They are really small so it will require some hard work.

I've yet to have a cannon come loose after I've used a drip of CA to each wheel. I do use the medium viscosity version of CA just for this task but I guess if you're adverse to CA in the first place the pin makes sense, likely a good way to have the cannons consistently placed at each gun port.
 
I'll continue with my loose coils on my guns, and with the guns run out, it is just a model after all. Everything I've read, including the book on Cochrane says Captains had near total discretion on how to manage their ships. My Captain likes coils, and CA on his cannon wheels.
 
I'm looking forward to seeing how your Speedy turns out.

Your fashion pieces are impressive - and I like the way your photographs tie in with your narrative.  Keep going!
 
garthog