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Charter33

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Everything posted by Charter33

  1. Started the initial stages of the bow - I've been looking forward to this iconic aspect of the ship, and as Robert points out, a truly beautiful area to be working on. There's a lot going on and after reading and re-reading the instructions a couple of times I think I just about understand what's going on 🤔. Researching images of the bows one omission in the kit appears to be the decorative moulding detail on the bow curved rails, the hair brackets and lower bow cheek rails and the rails. I am trying to add the impression of these together with the distinctive scroll at the top of the rear bow curved rails. Scrolls first......... After sharpening up the lower corner where the stem meets the rounded head with a scalpel a 0.75 mm hole was drilled through the scroll's centre. This was the bevelled by hand with a countersink bit. To replicate the scroll's centre I mounted small brass lace making pins in a Dremel and worked the pin head with a combination of needle files and a scalpel blade while rotating it at a slow speed. Cut back to about 3 mm long these were CA glued into place. The next challenge was to work out how to produce the appearance of the mouldings. Producing a micro 'scratch stock' tool was asking a bit too much so I made a tool from scrap walnut and those brass pins that basically rubbed a groove parallel to an edge..... The 2 mm flexible beech needed a simple jig to support it ....... Finished components.... First fitting in conjunction with the timber heads trying to work out the right lines etc. and temporarily again, but now painted. A long way to go, lots of shaping, and many questions still to resolve. I'm guessing that the bow main rails have been made over long and will need trimming to fit behind the bow curved rails, and that the curved rail with the scroll head is mounted very slightly in from the back edge of the stem? Mmm.. think I need to read that 'note' paragraph just above the two pictures on page 30 of the instruction manual again....and again! 🤪 Cheers, Graham.
  2. Firstly - a huge thank you to Rob Durant! I was close to abandoning all hope of attaching photographs to my build log, having spent (wasted..) so much time trying to resolve the 'random rotation' of images issue. Rob, your re-sizing app is just what I needed, and your clear and explicit video guide has helped an aging ICT dyslectic 'grumpy old man' regain his sanity..... Cheers!!! The Beakhead now has the gun port lids fitted. I added the tubes for the rigging lines to run through using 0.8 mm dia. black insulation stripped off an internal wire of a redundant phone charger cable. Once broached with a sewing needle the 0.1 dia. rope could just slide through. The prospect of sourcing pairs of tubes for all the other gun port lids this way doesn't bare thinking about so I have followed Robert's advice and purchased thin walled 1.00 mm brass tubing from CMB in readiness for those once the time eventually comes. Construction of the two carronades was pretty straight forward. A couple of points to note - the bottom plate of the carriages needs to be painted black, not yellow as indicated in the instructions. The rings for the breach rope are quite distinctive on the original guns so I replaced the eyelets suggested with my own version. Sourcing brass strip from one of the frames of P.E. components....... ..... ends were radiused prior to drilling, rings fitted, cut to length...... and finally blacked. The ends of the barrels where bored by hand and, while the tools were to hand, I hollowed out the front of the chimney, a task I had forgotten to do. The various tackles etc. took a few attempts get right. Much time viewing images on-line led to in this outcome. Before beginning to work on the bow structure I decided to check the fit of the bowsprite using a short piece of ash that I'd turned to the right diameter, originally to check the alinement of mast holes and mast sleeves. It was a good job I did...... and some attention with carving chisels, scalpel and finally an 11 mm drill wrapped with 320 grit abrasive paper was required. With the fit now sorted it was clear that the transition through the deck was a bit poor with noticeable gaps. This was corrected by replacing the four central planks and re-cutting the elliptical hole. Cheers, Graham.
  3. Well..... Just how I managed to get so far with the beakhead without realising that the roundhouse tops needed to be trimmed back to be flush with the walls is a mystery to me.... I could pretend it hadn't happened, but decided to flag it up so that others might avoid doing the same. Suffice to say that that a few minutes work with number 11 scalpel blade and a needle file had the problem sorted and after a remedial paint job - all sorted. The pilasters have now been fitted...... ... doors fitted, and the gun ports prepared and awaiting rigging before they too are added. Cheers, Graham.
  4. Hi, With the pilasters formed, dry fitted and painted ....... ...... I moved on to the roundhouse windows while the paint dried. I decided to glaze the brass frames. First step was to make a punch to cut the acetate sheet. An off-cut of 4mm brass tube was bevelled to produce a cutting edge. A light tap with a hammer did the job using a piece of card for an anvil. The discs press fitted nicely .... The etched brass frames have a small step on the back so the existing holes I had drilled in each roundhouse were opened out to dia. 3.75mm (no.24 drill). A light application of PVA around the holes and the frames were pressed into place - not quite as easy as that sounds! Then a quick touch up with the blue paint. Cheers, Graham.
  5. Hi, Good to hear from you both. Mort - thank you for your welcome back - it really is great to be in a position to once again contribute to this build log, although it did take a little while to get back up to speed! Robert - your build log continues to be my 'go to' thread when things get tricky - such an impressive resource. It seems we share a couple of things other than building the same model purchased from the same retailer (CMB). I've just spotted that you use an identical orange Anglepoise lamp to illuminate your work bench as I do, and I too have also recently been 'elevated' to the illustrious role of a grandparent. Puts a whole new perspective to things.... Progress today..... first step was to add the Cat-tails followed by the Beakhead capping assembly. I had an issue here with the bow main rail inner timberhead pieces. The instructions seemed straight forward, but combined with the plans it appeared a bit ambiguous and vague. Perhaps it's old age creeping up on me but things didn't add up. I have a feeling I may not be the only builder to have been in this position. I ended up falling back on my copy of John McKay's 'The Ships Anatomy' and of even more help, Longridge's 'Anatomy of Nelson's Ships'. The two parts provided in the kit were discarded and replaced with a slightly longer version. The rest of the bulkhead timbers and fiferail assembly went together without any problems. After an initial coat of paint......... the pre-painted length of brass profile was glued beneath the plank sheer, and the front section of the upper gun deck was planked using the black cotton caulking technique used with all previous planking. The photograph shows them prior to cleaning up and matt varnishing. Off to find a jubilee clip and an appropriate socket spanner to shape the roundhouse pilasters (thanks for the tip Robert!) Cheers, Graham.
  6. Some progress to share.......and a new laptop to help with the process too...... After removing the dust sheet that has been protecting the hull while in storage (for far too long!) work has continued with fitting out the quarter deck. The Barricade assembly and waist ladders are now in place and the rigging openings have been lined. The main companionway and the one to the Admiral's Dining cabin were straight forward to construct and fit as were the binnacle and ship's wheel. After digging out the various jigs I made to help with the gun carriages and their associated tackles and breaching ropes on the previous deck, and re-reading my build log to remind me how to use them 😕..... the 12 quarter deck cannon and two forecastle guns were assembled and then fitted into place. Good to be back at the work bench. Cheers, Graham.
  7. CMB = Cornwall Model Boats. In the UK especially, but not exclusively, a 'go to' source for model boat kits, model making tools and, from personal experience, spares and supplies for when things don't go according to plan and you need to dig yourself out of a hole.....! (no, I have no connection with them, other than as a satisfied customer, grateful that they are a reliable company, there when I need them...)
  8. Hi James, From just over the A30 Surrey boarder in chilly Berkshire welcome to the site - a great place for assistance should you ever need it which ever model you decide to go for. Cheers, Graham.
  9. Hi Ronald, Steaming should help. As Mark explained, wetting the wood and then applying heat from a curling tool, or similar, will change the water in the plank to steam and this is what enables the fibres to move to a curved/bent shape. I've also achieved good results heating wet planks with a small travel iron. Graham
  10. I'd start by soaking the strip for about 5 minutes and see how that goes. Always a good idea to pre-drill before driving in the pins, but do it after the strip has been bent and has dried out. If the planks are only a year old they should be fine. Looking forward to hearing how you get on. Graham.
  11. Hi Ronald, The construction method that this kit uses is expecting an awful lot from the planking strips. That bend at the end appears very exteme. I see that you have tried crimping and heat, but have you tried soaking the planks in hot water? This often makes wood more pliable. Might be worth soaking a strip, gently pressing it around the bulkhead (or even a similarly shaped object) and leaving it to dry overnight. Once 'pre-formed' it may be less of a strain to glue in place. You also mention that you got these strips some time ago. Sometimes wood can get more brittle with age. Hope you find a workable solution to this problem. Good luck!
  12. Hi Mike, The best answer to your question probably depends on the reason behind why you need to harden the wood. If you want to achieve a silky smooth surface that sands well enough to enable you to get a good quality surface to subsequently apply a painted finish to you will probably find that a good quality sanding sealer will do the job. If you're trying to toughen the wood to improve impact resistance you could try applying something that will give a good depth of penetration and bind the wood fibres together such as a wash of watered down PVA wood glue. I think that I'd only resort to polyester or epoxy resins if I was hoping to achieve a waterproof finish, but here again it would depend on the size of the area being treated for reasons of cost if nothing else. Wood varnishes, polyurethane and acrylic, will also improve surface hardness and reduce damage from scuffing and knocks etc. Hope this helps.... Cheers, Graham
  13. As ever, thorough research immaculately executed! Keep up the good work - I'll be dusting off my copy of Longridge's book, that's for sure!
  14. Superb - please keep reporting on your progress with this impressive project.... looking forward to seeing the final outcome!
  15. Hi Patrick, I'm still here but sometimes life gets a bit complicated. I had to retire from a 43+ year career teaching Design Technology last December . The impact of this was significant including the loss of access to a great suite of workshops, equipment, and the loss of 'my' computer. My own personal tools, including work bench (rescued from a skip when my faculty was extended and modernised), wood turning lathe and numerous woodwork and engineering tools collected over the years had to be packed away and put into storage. The more valued and precious items are currently cluttering my already cramped model room, ie. the smallest bedroom in the house. My aim is to now build a workshop in the garden - I've planned it and hope to start construction soon. I made the mistake of putting things off until I retired, forgetting the the Admiral would have her own ideas for how my practical skills could be employed! My Victory is safe and a little progress has been made. I hope to be in a position to crack on with it in the near future. I do have some photos on my camera, but no way of downloading them at the moment. I can only access this site via my phone - but following the various threads on it is a great pleasure. Good to see the number of Caldercraft Victorys now under way; some superb and truly inspirational work, including your own! Cheers, Graham
  16. An very impressive resource, and now right at the top of my 'must have' list. Thank you for bring it to my attention! For those with an interest in Adriatic sailing craft there's an impressive collection afloat on the Fosso Venarella canal, adjacent to the Museo della Marineria in Cesenatico, about 140 km down the coast from Venice, 23 km up from Rimini. I came across it when researching these types if vessel. I've only been able to explore it 'virtually' using Google Earth, but there's a wealth of detail to be seen. I recommended using the street view function and viewing from both sides of the canal. 'Photo sphere' pictures show views of the boats in different rigging stages, including full sail. Enjoy!
  17. Hi Sjors, I had exactly the same problem with my build. If you do a search for my build log you will see how I overcame it. You'll find that it's a minor glitch, easily fixed and not visible once the planking is finished. Enjoying your build - keep up the great work! Cheers, Graham
  18. Hi, I used to also have access to a laser cutter at work - and really miss it now! One way that I found to reduce char was to drop the power level and then repeat the cut several times until separation was achieved. It didn't stop the charring completely, but did reduce it considerably. Good luck! Graham.
  19. Not so good with the things myself either! Hope this works ......... Sotherby's site https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/master-paintings-evening-sale/jan-abrahamsz-beerstraten-dutch-ships-at-anchor-in Fine Arts Museum - Boston https://collections.mfa.org/search/objects/*/Yacht of the Princes of Orange and Other Ships Cheers, Graham.
  20. Just found it! - on the museum's website, last page (7) of the 'Nautical' section. Similar stern view, but this time slightly to starboard.
  21. The Sotheby's catalogue notes say it was the Royal Yacht of William ll which was completed in 1647, athough originally intended for his father. The notes also mention another painting of the same vessel, by the same artist, that is now in the collection of the Boston Fine Art museum.
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