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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. No, don't give up, You have to be specific to get a specific answer. So: 1) Date or date range 2) Nationality (don't assume we know!) 3) In the case of a doorway, where in the vessel? The answer will be different if it's in the hold/platforms, a gun deck or weather deck. The more defined the question, the better the responses will be.
  2. Can you post a photo or two of the bowsprit? Then we can assess how best to proceed.
  3. Small point: there was usually one bolt through each frame timber rather than each strake of planking. However, you've fitted the hooks very nicely.
  4. Lovely work as usual. The last photo showing the flare of the bulwarks above the forecastle beams is particularly pleasing.
  5. Just stumbled across your build(s), Chris. Interesting subjects and they look great so far.
  6. The crème brulée torch will be fine for annealing small pieces. If you already use that, you're good to go.
  7. Looking lovely, Toni. However, might I point out that the bollard timberheads are extensions of the bollard timbers themselves? This means that their athwartship faces are parallel to the keel, not at right angles to the sheer rail. That way they have a bearing face on each side of the bowsprit.
  8. Part of the beauty of a wooden ship model is the hand craftsmanship, not a machine-perfect finish! Those bollard timbers and cross-chock look just fine.
  9. Usually lower deadeyes were half the 'given diameter' (maximum) of the mast.
  10. Keith: you are correct. Epoxy is relatively insoluble in acetone, whereas CA is. Either way, acetone is nasty stuff. Only use in a very well ventilated space, no heat or flame in the vicinity and, preferably, with a NIOSH (cartridge) mask. A softened brass rod and jewelers' hammer are my preference!
  11. Seems a rather desperate way to get free quality tweezers, Roger. But to each their own....
  12. Same old story - you get what you pay for. Please consider investing in the best you can afford. If you buy cheap , you will need to replace and junk the cheapy anyway.
  13. Brass needs to be softened before it can be 'molded' - in this case riveted over. On a heat-proof surface you need to heat the rod to cherry -red (easier to see in dim light) and let it air-cool. This softening process is called annealing. Metal is much easier to cut and form after annealing. You can use a mini butane torch for this or (a bit of overkill!) a regular propane torch. Only cut a piece of rod a little bit longer than the finished length. In the above photo the piece is much too long. It should only protrude about 1/64" longer on each side before tapping the ends over on a hard surface. And yes, a set of broaches is a very useful thing to have around! Never force metal into wood. But you know that already. For cutting, a razor saw works well on softened brass. A small jewelers' hammer is another very useful item to have.
  14. PVA only works on porous materials such as wood. For metals, you have to use either epoxy (my preference) or cyanoacrylic glues.
  15. Lovely work. If you can buy a duodecimal scale rule online that has a 1:48 scale on it, that would save you time and headaches!
  16. I see your favorite solution in the background! Coming along nicely. I like the way you use the overhead gantry to ensure the vertical orientation of the beam.
  17. Just catching up. Her lines are so sweet. Congratulations on a great trophy. What does one have to do to win it?
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