Jump to content
Supplies of the Ship Modeler's Handbook are running out. Get your copy NOW before they are gone! Click on photo to order. ×

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    13,145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. Sprit topsails seem to extend down to the bowsprit top or end, more or less, when set. Although this image is both Spanish and modern, English practice must have been similar. Harland, Seamanship in the Age of Sail, shows a sketch where the sail extends to the spritsail yard c.1700. In that case, the spritsail yard is set much closer to the end of the bowsprit.Take your pick!
  2. Hope all will be well from here on in, Pat.
  3. My, what big fingers you have! Looking good and I like the milled wood that was supplied with the kit.
  4. In ship models, any variation generally has a domino effect! It sounds as if you are able to compensate OK, though. That stern is a very tricky area. Looking good so far.
  5. The Van de Velde drawings have been shown to be extremely accurate, so I think you could use those as a reliable guide. The figures on the stern balconies will also assist in determining their size.
  6. In reality, any sharp edges and corners were chamfered for safety. For a 'first build' this detail is optional. Good for you to include it!
  7. Tricky work, applying inside bulwark planking when all the outer detail is already installed!
  8. Yup; we're interested, Steven! You always find such interesting and different subjects.
  9. There were many 'experimental' drawings made; the standard steering wheel didn't need a detailed explanation with the drawing. The example above was obviously a proposal that didn't eventually make the cut.
  10. Startling photos, to say the least! You are a messy worker, Daniel.
  11. Well that was one method of cutting a helm port that I've not seen before! I have far less valor. I pre-file the shape of the hole before I assemble the parts. Only final shaping is done after assembly. That way, if I mess up, only one piece will be spoiled, not all of them!
  12. Although I cannot locate these drawings in his book, the style of illustration is very similar to those of L.G. Carr Laughton. (Old Ship's Figureheads & Sterns, 1925.)
  13. Remember - the full-size builders didn't have elaborate building stations with jigs! Just plumb lines, squares and measuring tools. It helps to remember to check vertical in all three planes as you erect each frame: 1) vertical as seen from the side 2) at right angles across the keel 3) center of cross-spall centered above the keel No-one will notice, once you model is complete and mounted vertically, that your keel is very slightly canted to one side!
  14. HH: you might consider 'progressive' vari-focal lens spectacles. Since I got mine, I've rarely needed an Optivisor - something that i wore extensively over the previous 10 years.
  15. It appears that the manufacturer did not know this and simply intended it for a relatively unsophisticated kit.
  16. A radius is required so that, when at anchor, the cables are not chafed when the ship turns and they cross the bow. I've discovered that, in shipbuilding, there was always a reason for why something was done a certain way.
  17. Allan makes a good point. There are many models that do not show this double taper (from aft to forward as well as from below upward) of the knee of the head. The knee is not simply slab-sided. It makes the fore end of a model look heavy and clumsy. An example of this taper is shown here:
×
×
  • Create New...