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druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Porchie: Even though the paintwork may not be brilliant, try to keep as much of the original as possible. Resist the temptation to paint over what is there! Restoring missing patches of paint is a better solution. Keith: I agree that earlier 'restorations' make life far more difficult than an untouched model. Everyone: whether or not 'real' ships were rigged with seven yards per mast or not is irrelevant to this model. One doesn't try to alter things when restoring however 'inaccurate' it may be, unless it is obvious that something was not original but a later addition. -
Handles are handles (one I have was made in India) but the blades should be the real deal. A box of 100 will last a long time!
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I prefer your rendition!
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The dory kit will be a good re-set for you. Good luck with it. The dory is a good starting point for learning basic techniques that will help you with more advanced models later on.
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Coming along well, Mark. I've found marking levels inside the hull easier by poking a thin piece of wood or metal attached to my height gauge between the frames rather than by reaching over as you have done. Funny how myths like ammonia have circulated for years. There are others: don't use beeswax or tea on your rigging or sails; both are acid and in the long term do no good. Conservators' wax and material dye or acrylic paint are much better options.
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Glenn: I use a Proxxon today, but still use a pin vise in certain situations. The transformer unit has a rheostat to vary speed.
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Also, those ports would have been very handy for throwing gash - garbage - through in those days when pollution wasn't a consideration! I suppose, should the tiller break or be shot away, emergency steering lines could be taken through these ports as well.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
druxey replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
A happy New Year to you indeed! -
Well, you are getting into the learning experience, aren't you? Is there a reason you would use CA rather than PVA white glue? If the instructions suggest something maybe there is a reason for it; such as beveling only until the char just disappears.
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I'm sure you'll be getting up the learning curve quickly! I used a pin vice for drilling small holes using HSS bits for years before I could afford a decent hand-held power rotary tool. I held one forefinger over the far end of the tool to steady it (very little pressure!) and rotated it with the other hand. I had very few breakages after that with even #78 bits.
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Well done: good shots with your 'cannon'! You could try ironing out the bubbles on the sail on low heat. Congratulations on successfully completing your model.
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You still use pennies, South of the border???? This looks like an interesting build, Chris.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
druxey replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Lovely work, Bitao. -
Thank you for my smile today, Johann!
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Very impressive kit and work.I, too, was tempted until I saw the price tag!
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The end result is very impressive, Tim.I can almost smell hot oil! Well done.
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Very thoughtful planning and work, Clare.
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I believe that keeping the boats 'wet' was advantageous: it kept the seams watertight. Demote that bo'sun!
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Every best wish as you go through rehab. Hopefully you'll be back on track soon.
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I was assuming the writer was referring to photographed rather than flat-scanned images, Kris. Either way, it's a complex task to correct, whether by CAD program or on a drafting board!
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My hunch is that the bulkhead and doors were there for foul weather protection and to retain heat in the space, and the doors were only partially opened to provide some ventilation.
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Ben: your grid method will only partially solve the problem. It will certainly deal with lens distortion, but does nothing to remove paper or printing distortion.
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