druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Style is definitely post 1800. -
M. Jaques Guydal: En anglais, SVP! Beautiful progress. Love the finial - or is it a weather vane?
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Jewelers' saw or scroll saw, there is still no substitute for a well sharpened chisel to cut a clean, tight fitting joint. (Greg might disagree, but he has heavy milling power at his disposal!)
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A little wood filler and sanding will make the breast hook joints much more acceptable! Otherwise looking good so far.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- Model Shipways
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Note about pawls: The rotating flat variety was in use by the Royal Navy until very late in the 18th century, and only then superseded by the drop pawl mechanism.
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I find the rainwater theory doesn't - wait for it! - hold water. This arrangement is on the lower deck, not on a weather deck. Mark's hypothesis is more likely.
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Yes, it's always good to test anything new on scrap material first! Unless, of course, you like living dangerously....
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During this period the ensign staff was held by two items. At the base was a roller with a blind hole for the foot of the staff. A block of wood on each side of the roller acted as its bearings. This allowed the staff to be rotated out of the way of the gaff and/or boom. To keep the staff in place, a capsquare was mounted on the fore side of the tafferel to retain it.
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Only if there are no curves: FoamCore board is rigid. If you mean dense styrofoam, it is very carveable and can be shaped to anything that you imagine. Just don't use hot wire to cut it: the off-gassing is very toxic!
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It might very well serve that purpose as well, but I've yet to see a plan or model to confirm that, Mark.
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One example is the following: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-80763 The 'tongue' extends forward over the deck beam ahead. I suspect it is bolted down on this to distribute the load on the capstan when in use.
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The cathead supporter and ekeing rail are the most awkward parts in a ship as the curves are in two planes. Perhaps cutting a bit off the bottom of the supporter and fitting an intermediate piece will give you that smooth, curved transition.
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- Sphinx
- Vanguard Models
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Just seeing this thread, Håkan. An interesting subject beautifully rendered. My sincere wishes for a successful recovery and outcome for your health.
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You begin by making a small eye-splice at one end of the gammoning rope. (You will need a much longer length of line that you think!) The line is then taken over the bowsprit and threaded through its eye so that the line drapes down the port side of the model. The illustrations above will guide you for the rest of the process.
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Well, if you can get different weights of SilkSpan, you could even imitate the different weights of canvas used for various sails.
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Your attention to the fine details of the forged hooks is nothing short of superb. I've never seen the metal tapered so nicely as you've done it. Brilliant!
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Proxxon compound table KT 70
druxey replied to Dziadeczek's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Anyone have an opinion on a Primus 75 or Primus 100 machine vise? -
Gun Port wreaths
druxey replied to allanyed's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
In actual practice a structural component would not be cut into or 'wounded' in any way. The thicker planking of the wale was more important, so the first method would be correct. The second photo appears to show the model-maker's 'easy out'. -
Welcome aboard, Barry!
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Looking good!
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Delightful photos, HH. The model is gorgeous, with the morning light shining off the gilding, the early rays throwing the carved works into high relief.... I do sympathise with your personal situation. Many of us have gone through what you are experiencing and know how tough that road is.
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Be aware that some distortion is not due to the scanning process, but distortion of the paper itself after hundreds of years of fluctuating humidity in storage. Removing distortion, whether electronically or by manual redrafting is a tedious business!
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