druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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What a delightful and complex piece of work, Keith. Closer to jewelry than model making. -
Wood will warp across the grain when damp. You should be able to correct this by clamping or using elastic bands and small blocks while gluing the plank end firmly in place.
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Air brush vs paint & brush
druxey replied to jefferyt's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Yes, surgically cleaning out airbrushes is a drag, but essential. Bob: that is a great tip! -
Nicely done, Michael. On jobs like that, one spends far more time annealing than tapping!
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Either as Alan wrote, Bell-er-o-fon or Bell - AIR - o- phon (stress on the second syllable).
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Sorry to read of your ocular issues, Mark. Hopefully you can at least enjoy reading others' logs until your new lenses are ready.
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To completely fair sections of the framing before completing the whole shows a high degree of confidence!
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Yes, the legs of bobstays are lashed together. However, the leading edge of your knee of the head looks to be too 'fat'. Look at contemporary models' headwork on the RMG site, such as: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-68158 While this example is a little earlier, the taper of the knee is typical also of later 18th century ships.
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Unkind remark about card, Andrew! Those 3D details of pipes and rails give a lot of visual interest to your model, Chris.
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That was an hour's celebration and fun. Thank you, Steven!
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- keelless
- reverse clinker
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Heaven knows what might have happened had Caligula survived longer!
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It looks pretty good in your photos. One way to sand frames without sanding the transoms (or vice versa) is to glue sandpaper only on one half of the flexible sanding stick.
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Just catching up with you, Mark. Unfortunately, in our ship model world re-do's are the rule rather than the exception. It makes you a member of the club. There, feel better now? Hope the rework goes well for you.
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Looks very cool!
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The dory kit is not 'dumbed down', as other builders will testify!
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Lees unfortunately nodded here: man ropes were not knotted at intervals. However, footropes to the jibboom were.
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Porchie: Even though the paintwork may not be brilliant, try to keep as much of the original as possible. Resist the temptation to paint over what is there! Restoring missing patches of paint is a better solution. Keith: I agree that earlier 'restorations' make life far more difficult than an untouched model. Everyone: whether or not 'real' ships were rigged with seven yards per mast or not is irrelevant to this model. One doesn't try to alter things when restoring however 'inaccurate' it may be, unless it is obvious that something was not original but a later addition.
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Handles are handles (one I have was made in India) but the blades should be the real deal. A box of 100 will last a long time!
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I prefer your rendition!
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The dory kit will be a good re-set for you. Good luck with it. The dory is a good starting point for learning basic techniques that will help you with more advanced models later on.
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Coming along well, Mark. I've found marking levels inside the hull easier by poking a thin piece of wood or metal attached to my height gauge between the frames rather than by reaching over as you have done. Funny how myths like ammonia have circulated for years. There are others: don't use beeswax or tea on your rigging or sails; both are acid and in the long term do no good. Conservators' wax and material dye or acrylic paint are much better options.
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Glenn: I use a Proxxon today, but still use a pin vise in certain situations. The transformer unit has a rheostat to vary speed.
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Also, those ports would have been very handy for throwing gash - garbage - through in those days when pollution wasn't a consideration! I suppose, should the tiller break or be shot away, emergency steering lines could be taken through these ports as well.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
druxey replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
A happy New Year to you indeed!
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