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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. For small boats 12" to 18" seems to be the range.
  2. There are several ways of making grommets. One way is cutting thin slices of brass tubing (heat-soften it first!) Place the ring on a hardened surface and flare one side using a center punch, if the ring is small enough. Push the ring through a hole in the sail and flare the other side to lock it in place.
  3. Fabulous grunging work! But now don't the brick walls look a little too clean? Or are they yet to be dirtied? Your diorama is a pleasure to look at.
  4. In 18th century terms, a cringle is a rope loop at the corners of and along the edges of sails, either as part of the bolt rope or secured to it. Are you thinking, perhaps, of a grommet? That is a ring of metal fixed within the edge of a sail.
  5. Making paper or thin card patterns for any complex piece saves a lot of wood (and bad language!). Your counter planking looks good.
  6. Good progress, but had you considered using SilkSpan instead of woven material, however fine? It's much more amenable to furling.
  7. I might suggest an expanded definition for a ruler: RULER: A blameable device for measuring twice, cutting once, then finding the piece too short .
  8. Good question. Real wooden masts and spars are first cut to a square cross-section, then octagonal, then sixteen sided before being rounded off. Some sections are left square so that other things (such as mast caps) attached to them can't skew around.
  9. Harvey: The Rope is a group of extremely talented Japanese ship modelers. See: https://blog.agesofsail.com/2018/03/07/fantastic-work-of-japanese-ship-modelers-the-rope-tokyo/ and: https://theropetokyo-en.jimdofree.com/about-1/jsmcc/
  10. Certainly a thorny problem, Claire. Are there any members of The Rope that you could ask technical questions of?
  11. OK, so the Japanese cedars could easily provide planks of 100 feet length. I'll buy into that, then! One reason there may not be too much discussion on this thread is that most of us have little knowledge of Japanese historical ship construction. I, for one, look in to learn from you, Claire.
  12. Allan: The Veritas system is for full-size tools. For miniature ones you either have to hand-hone (tricky!) or design your own honing guide/fixtures. Usually 25 degrees is my preferred angle as it's an all-purpose one.
  13. Whether water or oil stones, or diamond grit for sharpening is a matter of personal taste (I use water stones), but a good sharpening system like Veritas is a must, in my opinion. I could never get a truly sharp edge before I bought a sharpening guide. You know whether the edge is sharp by the sound it makes as you slice through hardwood. It should make a nice crunch like cutting a crisp apple.
  14. Interesting stuff, Claire! And already kit-bashing your model at this early stage. I'm surprised at the Souvenirs statement that planks 30m long were one-piece. That's 100 feet, which seems unlikely.
  15. When using a well sharpened chisel, to prevent breakout on the far side of the cut, you should a) cut thin slices off and b) use a hardwood block underneath to support the part. Your photos show that you are getting the hang of things!
  16. It's a not very good knock-off of the Greenwich Hospital barge of 1832. And not exactly 'HMS' either!
  17. Don't be frightened, stuglo! Take it one piece at a time. If you look at it all at once, it's certainly daunting. One small step at a time....
  18. There are a number of items of interest to the MSW readership in a coming auction. Check out lots 6, 12, and 14 to 17. https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/26775/?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=WK47_202125112021&cid=22129756#/aa1=1&MR1_length=317&w1=list&m1=1 I have no direct connection with Bonham's.
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