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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Good save there, Stuglo!
  2. druxey
    Looks very promising, Michael.
  3. druxey
    Pat: I simply cut rectangular section blanks for the oars, milled the shaft portions to 3" square, then cut, scraped and sanded the rest by hand and eye, also using a dial gauge for the finished dimensions. Spent part of the day (when not doing remedial work on the house exterior) milling moldings for the base and sub-base and ebonizing them. More soon. Thanks again for all the likes and visits, everyone!
  4. druxey
    There are so many creative solutions to any problem. That's one of them!
  5. druxey
    Now what would be really interesting is for you to build this kit, then build a modern kit version and see how the two compare!
  6. druxey
    What plug? Nice progress, Toni! My only comment is that I interpret the shaded are at the tip of the knee as being shaved away to a blunt point as seen from above. If you can do that, the carving will look even nicer. Oh, and don't forget the shallow notch for the gammoning. See the Weazle draught.
  7. druxey
    Eberhard: I was lucky this time. I made 12 blanks and did not have to re-do any of the ten. HH: Thank you. If you know the tricks of the trade, faux wood grain of all kinds is not that difficult. A wonderful book on the subject is: Professional Painted Finishes, by the Marx brothers (not those ones!) Allen and Robert and Ina Brosseau Marx, Watson Guptill, 1991.
  8. druxey
    All ten oars are now carved and ready for bindings and leathering. Work continues on the base and pedestals. The latter will be from ⅛" diameter acrylic rod, so as to be minimalist.
  9. druxey
    Yes, softening means a very light rounding off of a sharp edge.
  10. druxey
    That galley roof is beautiful. I'm sorry that it will hardly be seen.
  11. druxey
    Looking very nice, Ron.
  12. druxey
    As a bit of light relief while making oars (five down, five to go!) I faux-painted a burlwood base for the model. There will be molding all the way around and a sub-base as well.
  13. druxey
    Shipman: Something in the order of 0.010" at 1:48 scale (I think that's was what you were asking!)
  14. druxey
    Coming along splendidly, HH!
  15. druxey
    Keith: Theoretically 5/8", but they are actually a whisker thicker for integrity of the blade ends.
  16. druxey
    They are not complete yet nor bound with a metal strap to prevent splitting. All in good time, Roger!
  17. druxey
    Contour duplicators are much too large and coarse to be useful in model-making. Save your money, unless you are doing house reno's.
  18. druxey
    If the light balance is a little off, the joinery certainly isn't!
  19. druxey
    It is much better that the thwarts are too long than too short! No-one has invented a good wood stretcher yet. Card patterns are certainly the way to go, just as you suggested. Cut a piece roughly to the angle you need, then refine it by careful trimming. For complex shapes, you can glue small pieces of card to a larger one to get exactly the shape you need.
  20. druxey
    Good question, Greg. The oars will be deployed in the same way as the Greenwich Hospital barge model.
  21. druxey
    That was similar to my thought, Keith. And besides, one doesn't want to obscure all that lovely gingerbread with anything as mundane as a ladder.
  22. druxey
    Thank you so much, folks. Pete: I, too, was once in awe of other model-makers. Slowly, bit by bit, I kept improving and learning. You can do it too! Pictured is the prototype for the 14' 0" oars. These are probably the smallest and most delicate I have made so far. I still have to add the binding on the end of the blade. One down, nine to go....
  23. druxey
    Looking at the photos, it appears that the height from upper deck to forecastle in both cases is, perhaps, no more than about 3' 6" at most. A nimble sailor could easily scale this without a ladder.
  24. druxey
    David: your tactic of placing a clamp or even a loop of seizing line on with the shroud pair in place, sliding it off and completng the seizing is a great strategy. It's worked well for me!
  25. druxey
    I found making a maquette (larger sized) in clay first helped me get the 3D problems worked out before carving in wood. It helped me visualize what to cut away. I agree that there is much more control with hand tools than with rotary power. Your banner holding angel looks good. The more carving you do you'll find you get rapidly better. (I shudder at some of my early attempts!) I also found looking at classical sculpture pictures helped me a lot.

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