druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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It makes no difference surely, as a vessel is not static like a building. There I can see that an ellipse might be used: roofs - generally - do not taper! A ship rolls, so why bother with an elliptical round-up? -
Allan: your video is actually terrifying. Now I truly understand the rate of deforestation of this planet. I had no idea how ruthlessly efficient and rapidly trees can be dispatched.
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I think one needs an odd number of holes for crowsfeet, or it won't work out!
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While all deck beams can be shaped to the same round up, as a batch it doesn't quite work. At the dead flat the beams are rectangular in section, but become increasingly parallelogram in section as one proceeds fore and aft, due to the rising sheer of the deck. Therefore the beams fore and aft need to be a little deeper to allow for the bevel top and bottom.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Coming along nicely! -
HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
druxey replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
If I may suggest making but not attaching tehe knee of the head until after planking the bow. The 'nose' will get in the way of clamping or securing the hooding ends of the planks. Lovely work so far!- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
- Plank-on-frame
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Nice to see you back in the shipyard! I think you are on the mark (pun intended) for the fixed blocks with the degree of tumblehome you are dealing with. For the moldings, how about predrilling them and temporarily securing them with pins rather than clamping them? Of course, you will need to pre-bend the moldings at the bow. Replace the pins with treenails once glued in place.
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Congratulations on a very nice model, Bob! It doesn't matter how long one has been modeling, there's always something new to challenge one. Overcoming those challenges is a satisfying feeling, isn't it? So, what is next, I wonder?
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I'm late to the party, but what a party! Superb and convincing work there, Gary. You are the king of grunge!
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You are doing fine. It's just the learning curve as you figure out how different materials 'work'. We've all been there or are still there!
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- Model Shipways
- norwegian sailing pram
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Nice and neat. The coppering should cover stem and stern post as well as the keel.
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Nice result for your first model. Well done!
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That's right, this is a family oriented site! The Bowdlerlized versions will do. (Look him up.)
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Take your pick! At least an even number of shrouds means that no cont splicing will be required.
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So, you winged your wing transom? No-one will know. The transoms look very nice indeed, although, were it me, I'd leave them a little full for final fairing when all is assembled. Those are very sweet joints. No idea? I don't think so!
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I want you on my trivia team, Bob C.
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Elastic bands are often very useful.
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Kits are generally designed so that a minimal number of hand tools are needed. Here is a typical example: https://modelexpo-online.com/assets/images/MS1471 Norwegian Sailing Pram instructions rev 3-29-21.pdf Pages 40 to 43.
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Festina lente: make haste slowly!
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Well, Yarmouth, 1745 has original standing rigging (5 shrouds a side!), but most NMM models have been re-rigged over time. Others of the 60 to 74 gun size all seem to have 5 a side as well. Draw what conclusions you may.
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Interesting, Alan. I thought that this might be a typo, but, on checking the other tables in Steel, I see that all ships down to 64-gun size have 4 'extra' deadeyes and four shroud pairs. The 64 has 2 extras and rates below do no have any excess deadeyes. The main top for a 74 shows an outline of the top only and the 36-gun ship shows four slots a side (Plate 5, Volume I).
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I'm always a little suspicious of the accuracy of the AOTS series! I believe that Longridge shows scooped battens.
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A magnificent piece of music, JD! I've had the privilege of singing it (chorus!) a few years back. But I digress.... Carving at such small scale is tough. Do you have good, directional light to work by, Mark? That alone can make a huge difference. A few years ago I invested in a set of miniature carving tools from Mihail Kirsanov. It improved my success rate considerably.
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Nice going. It's amazing how roomy these tops were. Heaving them into place must have been quite an affair. The radiating battens usually have a 'scooped' contour. I assume these have yet to be shaped?
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