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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    How can one read a scale rule wrongly, Alan? I'm a bit puzzled. The idea of using paper towel as spacers is a bit dodgy: they can compress. I'd recommend wood slips for the job.
  2. druxey
    Just came across your log, Giorgio. That is one beautiful model you are building. Looking forward to more progress reports.
  3. druxey
    If the frames are square to the keel, you can clamp the keelson piece to one side of the keel on the inside. Then you can use the marking knife from the outside without the keel getting in the way.
  4. druxey
    Nicely done, Toni! Have fun at the Conference.
  5. druxey
    I think, on close inspection, that I see a line parallel to the painted(?) top of the dark area. Is that the top of what could be the copper?
  6. druxey
    As everyone else has already said.... Thanks again for my Saturday 'fix', Glenn.
  7. druxey
    Very nice-looking masts, Mike!
  8. druxey
    Your take on this is the same as mine, wefalck (see post #10).
  9. druxey
    Hmm. Yet another reason for not using CA in future. I feel your pain at having to revise your work, but when you do, the gap between upper and lower deadeyes look far too wide. Look at photos of other examples to see what i mean.
  10. druxey
    Jaager: if the frame is bevelled, then the scarph (or chock) would also be bevelled to the same angle, otherwise strength would be compromised.
  11. druxey
    Take a look at the planking articles that are 'pinned' on this site, David. In reality, planks were generally 24' 0" to 28' 0" long. There were a number of rules about where the plank butts occured - it wasn't a random thing. Kits have their quirks and shortcomings, among which is simplifying. It will be easier to plank in shorter lengths, but read up on things first!
  12. druxey
    Good luck with this, E&T as you figure out your best strategy. Pear is certainly amenable to bending.
  13. druxey
    Thanks, Vaddoc!
  14. druxey
    Nice lapstrake model you have there, Vaddoc! What is she?
  15. druxey
    Nice to see you back and progressing, E&T. Try laminating the wales in two or three layers. Don't attempt to bend them in one! You will certainly need to spile the lower hull planking, especially at the bow. Looking very nice so far.
  16. druxey
    Duff's advice is as good as any.
  17. druxey
    Oh. I'm sorry to read of the reason for your hiatus. Wishing you restored and continuing good health, John.
  18. druxey
    Sweet!
  19. druxey
    Is it possible that what you are seeing in the photograph is thin wood sheathing painted over?
  20. druxey
    If you use Ed Tosti's coloring method (liver of sulphur), it doesn't affect wood, but the regular chemical colorants will stain. So, like so many things, it all depends!
  21. druxey
    Please, please do NOT use Gorilla glue!!! It's horrible stuff and expands like foam, so you will get seep-out no matter how careful you are. Use a little epoxy and clean off any smear with isopropanol before it sets. You'll be much happier. Also, should you plan on coloring the metal chemically, do this before you add it to the model.
  22. druxey
    Would alignment pins before/during assembly have prevented that problem? Looks good now!
  23. druxey
    What wood and what finish have you used?
  24. druxey
    Mark has described the style well. Hahn also used ebony (yech!) for his false keel and wales. This is not the best specie of wood for the job for a variety of reasons (discussed elsewhere), but avoids painting or staining.
  25. druxey
    Have you considered giving me the second model? Oh. It's spoken for. Lovely work, as ever.

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