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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    That looks like the line of the lower edge of the main wale, not the deck!
  2. druxey
    I agree with Kurt and company: surgical cleanliness is the key! A different style of airbrush that is less fussy than the traditional design with a long needle is the Aztec. It has short screw-on cartridge style heads that are easy to remove and clean. No more bent needle tips!
  3. druxey
    It will depend on the kind and quality of plan. If you have a specific drawing, please post a portion of it and we can better answer the question.
  4. druxey
    I have issues with accuracy of the AOTS. This is an example. That chain would not stay in that position as taken around the 'wrong' sides of the timberheads! Assuming the ends were hooked and secured to ringbolts inboard, the chain should still be passed around the other sides of the timberheads. I would rely more on Harland and use a line or cablet hitched around the same timberheads.
  5. druxey
    I agree with almost of what you've written, Chuck. However, I smiled as we all have different tastes in brush choice! I think everyone should experiment to see what round, flat and filbert brushes can or cannot do. One additional point: not only use your pinky for control, but control your breathing as well when 'cutting in' to an edge.
  6. druxey
    Sweet and very neat, Mike!
  7. druxey
    Looking sweet, now you have the framing system down pat, Gary. Think how much easier your next framed model will be!
  8. druxey
    One way of protecting the stern timbering is to attach one (or more) battens across them as a temporary measure. Also don't make any sudden reaching over moves and wear short sleeves!
  9. druxey
    And you have another follower here, Clare! Looks like a great start to your build. Small point: the chequerboard was a painted canvas floorcloth, not actual parquet. Looking forward to seeing your progress.
  10. druxey
    Mark: We are discussing fixed buckets or blades here, rather than the feathering type. And yes, the trapping of air in the sponson is what I was speculating on.
  11. druxey
    Anyone care to comment on the air pressure idea?
  12. druxey
    I use 1000 and 4000. If an edge should get a nick, I might use something coarser to get the worst ground off. If you sharpen properly with a micro-bevel on the edge, all you need to do is a few strokes on the 4000 grit to get the tool back to A1 shape.
  13. druxey
    Uh...sure, Jud! Usually the height of the crosspiece above the deck (plank) was in the order of 19" to 20"(mizen) 21" (main) to the underside. The height of the bitt pins above deck: 2' 11" (mizen), 3' 7" (main). Hope this is a helpful guide.
  14. druxey
    Ya gotta keep them tools well sharpened, Maurys! You'll regret it when they are blunt, so you push hard and the tool slips....
  15. druxey
    Unfortunately the images, as interesting as they are, do not solve the issue.
  16. druxey
    My (limited) understanding is that, as the paddlewheel turns, it creates some pressure in the paddlebox. The large space provided inside the box would ameliorate this effect, as did the later fancy perforated boxes seen on side paddle steamers. Can someone confirm or correct me?
  17. druxey
    Post script: The book on this model and making other open boats, both clinker and carvel, is now on the press! Look for an announcement from SeaWatchBooks soon. Thank you again everyone, for your encouragement and support on this log.
  18. druxey
    If you continue to be as meticulous in your cross-measurements as you have been, all should work out well, Maurys. I find re-measurung and checking constantly the only way to avoid reaching for the isopropanol!
  19. druxey
    Exquisite work, Gerald. Is the multi-arm soldering station your own creation or a commercially available unit?
  20. druxey
    What a difference a week can make! Awesome work as usual, Glenn.
  21. druxey
    Drilling with a pin chuck is very time consuming - been there, done that! I hope you can mini-mechanize the process. Look forward to seeing your home-made drill for small spaces.
  22. druxey
    Lovely detail work on the door/hatch there.
  23. druxey
    Looking terrific, Giampiero!
  24. druxey
    I've just discovered your log: what fascinating 'inside-out' way to construct a model! I've never seen this done before and it looks like an excellent method. However, it would require a lot of very careful planning and extremely accurate craftsmanship. Obviously you possess both skills, Amalio.
  25. druxey
    If you have more time on your hands, Chuck, why not put in the rest of the 'nails'? Seriously, that looks very nice indeed.

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