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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. It's always surprising to find more problems as one begins to assess damage in detail, Michael! I think your biggest challenge will be to inpaint the hull locally rather than have to repaint the entire side. It's not so much color matching, but getting the surface reflectance right. Best wishes as you begin to restore Albertic.
  2. Ship sloops such as the Swans were, I believe, slightly larger vessels. Large ships, if built of fir, had square sterns. All small vessels such as the Cruizer class, seem to have been built with square sterns regardless of timber species.
  3. Many happy years with your new daughter, Vaddoc. If it mirrors my experience, your model-making time will come to a shuddering halt at about her first birthday and won't pick up again until she's about ten. Looks like good progress. You were a bit optimistic about not having to spile! It's really not that bad. I'm curious as to why you used multiple levels rather than a set square to set those bulkheads up,
  4. Charlie: The model Joe posted is a modern one, and, again, is a bit suspect as to details. Try to examine photos of contemporary models if you can. I believe that The U. S. Naval Academy Museum in Annapolis has at least one Cruizer class model in their collection.
  5. Yes, it IS called a 'donkey's head', as the Dutch style mast cap is shaped like one!
  6. I suspect that, back in the 17th and 18th centuries, that colors varied a lot. Paint was mixed on site from pigment and oils. The quality of pigment would vary from batch to batch and where one was located geographically. No 'QC' back then! I agree with Wefalk - don't get too stressed about it.
  7. I think you may need to experiment a bit to get the color you want. Those color names would probably give you something close to a brownish red, depending on how much brown you use.
  8. Charlie: If you go to the Royal Museums Greenwich Collections web site, put 'Epervier' in the seach, you'll find the images I referenced.
  9. Photos are pretty good, actually! I'm amazed that you can carve a figure that size using such relatively large tools. Have you thought of making some miniature ones from pieces of piano wire secured in a wood handle, hammered to shape and sharpened?
  10. Small brigs of this time period certainly did not sport figureheads - no monies were expended on them. They either had scroll or fiddleheads. The figure on the model of Epervier is very suspect: the original 1803 draught 'as captured' from the French shows a small bird-like figure. The 1812 draught of a new brig of the same name shows no sign of anything like a figure, just a couple of ornamental curlicues.
  11. Thanks for the information on bitumen, Gaetan.
  12. One needs to be careful using bituminous compounds: they never completely 'set'. The alligator-skin cracked surface one sees in old varnish is caused by bitumen: it slowly 'crawls' over time. Some old paintings have the same problem where bitumen brown was used by the artist.
  13. I agree that she would make an interesting subject, if some plans were available.
  14. Of course, you could always just wait for 200 years....
  15. Tea works, but is acidic and will rot the fabric in time. Dylon dyes are compatible for mixing.
  16. One hoy plan I've seen states that the tank was to be of cedar, fastened with copper and with four compartments.
  17. To prevent curling, dampen the front of the blank when gluing up thin pieces. I'd still clamp them as well, as illustrated.
  18. Looks good, but do the aft cant frames really run down all the way to the keel? Usually they sit on a stepped or curved ledge on the deadwood. This also applies, to a lesser extent, on the fore cant frames at the forefoot.
  19. That forecastle is a forest of timbers! Nice going, but I'd tend to agree with Giampiero.
  20. Aliphatic (yellow) glue might be preferable, as it is more water-resistant.
  21. This is the usual method of traditional gilding, David. These days gesso comes ready-mixed as an acrylic-based compound. Art stores are a source for gesso. For a highly reflective finish, rabbitskin glue is good, but it is important to have a dust and blemish-free surface. For a slightly duller finish, use gilders' varnish. At small scale, a highly reflective surface obscures fine detail, but it's a matter of personal taste.
  22. The boards are a parallogram in cross-section. If you have a saw with a tilting arbor, this should be an easy job.
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