Jump to content

druxey

NRG Member
  • Posts

    12,399
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by druxey

  1. 90% hidden? Yes, but you - and we - know that it's there! Lovely forelocked bolt and square nuts on that intake.
  2. The term 'sister block' is wrong here: what is illustrated is a triple-sheaved ramshead block.
  3. The metal edge is sharp enough without further treatment, John. Just draw it along at a slight angle.
  4. There is little available on this subject, but it is more than likely that hardware would be similar to that seen on buildings of the period, of which some survive.
  5. It appears that the spaces between frame pairs at each station line are the narrower ones. For model work even spacing is OK, but if you want to be super-detailed, follow the DOF plan.
  6. If there are chocked joints just above the port sills, that would be most unusual. P. S. I just looked at the disposition of framing for Elephant: those top timbers are adjacent to, not above the ports. I misread your frame drawing. My apology! However, I read these on the DOF as scarfed, not chocked, joints. They are denoted by two lines across the frame rather than the single line seen at the chocked joints. Often there is an 'X' added to distinguish these further.
  7. Small point: Those chocked joints just above the port sills (C fwd and G fwd, for instance) look unlikely.
  8. Naturally aging brass seems like a good idea, Michael. Nice to read that you are getting back your groove.
  9. Greg: Longitude was written by Dava Sobel. Her book is a great read, highly recommended!
  10. I see your dead flat is composed of thee singles: an odd number is always required to reverse the frame pair floors fore and aft.
  11. It was wonderful to see both models in actuality at the Conference: thank you for bring them for inspection, Ed!
  12. Ah! I wondered when we'd hear more from you, Michael. She's looking good.
  13. No, file it when cooled! You don't want to scorch yourself accidentally. Heat to cherry red and let air cool. This softens the metal. After filing you could re-harden it by heating and oil quenching, but this really is not necessary.
  14. Only a hardwood like boxwood will hold the detail of a miniature moulding. Basswood is too soft and fuzzy. I use a piece of heat-softened hacksaw blade for filing in my moulding profiles.
×
×
  • Create New...