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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    If your calculations are correct, build a working model to prove things out!
  2. druxey
    Harland made the point that at intermediate angles, the slackness/tightening varies in a very non-linear fashion. Did you take this into account on your calculation?
  3. druxey
    It's not so much the brand of chisel, but how well it's sharpened that matters. I use a Lee Valley (Veritas) sharpening system with their jig and stone pond. I have water stones of 1000 and 4000 grit and add a micro-bevel on the edge. The back of the chisel is also polished to a mirror finish. Cutting with a well-sharpened edge produces the sound of a fresh apple being cut and beautiful shavings.
  4. druxey
    Well, I imagine of the real ship sometimes the bit wandered a little. Unless it's really bad, it will be all but invisible on the finished model. If this really bothers you, I suggest boring the holes from both sides of the keel, rather than through from one side.
  5. druxey
    Thanks again for all of you who are dropping in on this log. Further progress sees the completion of the gunwale and its extension aft as a moulding. The aft section of gunwale is 1½" thick, rather than ¾". You can see the step up forward of the cabin area. The moulding section was wet-formed on the plug (lowest photo), then painted and applied to the model. It has a C-curve in one plane and an S-curve in the other. It was necessary to complete the gunwale before proceeding with the coach sides. I'm now cutting and fitting card pattern pieces for the coach sides.
  6. druxey
    Nice to see progress, Gaetan!
  7. druxey
    That looks much more plausible, but it might even be better if the floors and first futtocks were shortened a bit.
  8. druxey
    Ah, Thank you, Ed. Simplicity itself!
  9. druxey
    Thank you for your latest update, Glenn. Before I read the other comments, I too was thinking "She looks about ready to turn over!" That is beautiful work.
  10. druxey
    Horsehair filled...or straw. Finally have solved the gilding issue. After some experimentation I am using Golden artist color brand acrylic tube paint. It is called Iridescent Gold (fine). The particles are much finer than in other brands I've tried. Photographing this is difficult, but the photos give some idea of the result. Keen eyes will notice I've repainted the blue strake a dark green-black, referred to as merde d'oie. (If you don't know French, look this up!)
  11. druxey
    Search under '66ft hoy', Maury.
  12. druxey
    And here are the seat cushions. They were carved from some pear stock 3" thick. The piping along the edges was some fine line left over from another model. It was applied using acrylic matt medium. Had I used white glue, it would have dissolved when I painted the cushions with acrylic paint. I may deepen their color. Experiments with 'gold' are beginning to yield promising results. More soon.
  13. druxey
    Interesting progress, Maury. This futtocks and top timbers seem awfully short to me. I think there would be only one futtock and toptimber per frame pair. See ZAZ4972 in the NMM collection of a hoy, undated.
  14. druxey
    Nicely done scarphs, Frank. However, I believe keel scarphs were always made in the vertical plane.
  15. druxey
    Interesting modification on your Unimat: how is the brass stop secured on the cross-slide rail?
  16. druxey
    Some progress while I wait for various 'gilding' materials to arrive. The coach benches are made and installed. For the moment the forward and aft coach bulkheads are temporarily slotted into position and still removable. The plan of the coach indicates a locker lid aft. The benches were cushioned for the benefit of the Lord Commissioners' backsides, so these are next. I'll model them based on the ones seen in Prince Frederick's barge
  17. druxey
    Jud: your illustrations appear to show the aft tiller line crossing over the chimney area and so would get cooked.
  18. druxey
    Pat: I used a paintbrush to remove the finish after flooding and softening the paint.
  19. druxey
    Love the tooling and jigs, Gerald! How did you cut out the floor blanks?
  20. druxey
    Nice progress. Is that an iron spike lying there? You really shouldn't use ferrous metal on your model!
  21. druxey
    Those belayed lines look terrific, Bob.
  22. druxey
    Thanks for the tips and support, everyone. It is much appreciated. I will be experimenting with different 'gilt' finishes over the next few days. The first photograph shows the ends finished in gold paint. This was unacceptable, as previously mentioned. The second picture shows the inner side of one end piece and the other stripped of finish. There is a channel running across the lights between the layers which will enable me to slide the frames for the lights and glazing in after I finish the outer sides. The third photograph shows the ends of the coach temporarily in place. After the seating is in place the ends will be permanently installed and the sides constructed to a sliding fit. Next be to constructed will be the seating inside the coach.
  23. druxey
    Thanks for all these ideas, everyone. I'll try them out. I seem to recall using Buff 'n' Rub years ago on some picture frames. The low sheen it produced may be exactly what I'm after.
  24. druxey
    Well, no photos this time. I've been struggling with gilded finish for the coach. I first tried Humbrol gold paint. The look was too coppery red, 'grainy' and glossy. I stripped this off and sprayed using a yellower gold lacquer. Still far too shiny and grainy - it does not look right at this scale. I've just stripped this off using acetone (ugh!) in a well ventilated garage. I will experiment further. Gold leaf was one possibility, but it will reflect and magnify any tiny surface defect or dust mote. So... back to the workbench.
  25. druxey
    Just catching up, Bill. Good on you to do a re-work. That method of decking looked lovely while it lasted, though!

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